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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
danraabe - Did you have the carbon blasting done ?
Yes I've done it once. And now that you ask I'll check with the dealer. Within 20K miles ago -around 60K. I have no idea what a safe interval would be.
Its about 50-60 K for each time depending on driving style , some poepl that drive longer and there MINI harder , tend to have less build up. Lots of short trips increases the need. I would check with them if its needed again as they can scope it.
Its about 50-60 K for each time depending on driving style , some poepl that drive longer and there MINI harder , tend to have less build up. Lots of short trips increases the need. I would check with them if its needed again as they can scope it.
Just spoke to the techs at Schomp. They suggested I pull the intake manifold and take a look through the ports. Another Saturday down the drain. They suggested 20K intervals. I'll drive the car at highway speeds and see if it's behaving. Thanks.
Thats if you live downtown and drive it like once and a while , 3 min drives to and from work. It will never warm up and burn off the deposits. From what i have seen.
For normal type intervals, just about every 50,000 miles the intake valves need to be cleaned to maintain optimum engine performance. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. We have more info in our tech article about carbon cleaning HERE. You can see in figure 1 looking to check for valve residue build-up.
Its about 50-60 K for each time depending on driving style , some poepl that drive longer and there MINI harder , tend to have less build up. Lots of short trips increases the need. I would check with them if its needed again as they can scope it.
Just spoke to the techs at Schomp. They suggested I pull the intake manifold and take a look through the ports. Another Saturday down the drain. They suggested 20K intervals. I'll drive the car at highway speeds and see if it's behaving. Thanks.
It seems the turbo isn't spooling up properly now. I spun the impeller and tried to move it but there's no play side to side or front to back. It has power but no get up an go above 3000 rpm.
Is it possible that carbon on the intake valves is restricting the air flow enough to cause a problem?
Thanks for following this thread. Aside from the increased noise out the back the combo of Brisk plugs (QR12S), cat less downpipe, new coils, new air mass meter... Seems to work. No apparent mis-fire. I will either remove the intake manifold and look at the valves myself, a mini video camera would be perfect here, or just take the car to the dealer for a blast! I had it done at 62K and now the ODO is 80K.
This mini is more expensive than a pregnant wife...
Yea, but it will not give birth to other MINIs. lol
I would scope it to see whats going on first. Then go from there.
Pardon my low-tech was. How do i scope the intake valves?
Also I am no longer hearing the turbo and the bypass valve working. It used to make the "noise" and the take off like a jack rabbit. It's so normal now. Like stock.
Either take off the intake manifold and use a camera probe tool. Or take the intake and throttle body and then probe up one of each of the runners. Old school , pop the intake manifold off , use a mirror.
They gapped them for me (no anti-sieze and -->10.8-14.5 ft/lbs" )
I also replaced the magnaflow cat with a straight downpipe. Beware the noise behind your left ear. Tread easy on the accelerator. The car now sounds like a revved out Honda with wheels worth more than the car....
Now there is the proof. I ran it down the highway to the outlet stores for new sneakers and it didn't sputter under load as usual. I'll take if for a little longer ride soon and see if after 30 minutes of highway driving it misfires. So far so good.
One last note. When I installed the KO4 turbo the thing would spool up at 3000+ with a distinct noise and a pull that felt like someone turned up the dial on my rocket boosted skate board. Now it doesn't do that. No noise. And power comes on very slowly. It moves. It just doesn't rocket forward with inspiration.
One last note. When I installed the KO4 turbo the thing would spool up at 3000+ with a distinct noise and a pull that felt like someone turned up the dial on my rocket boosted skate board. Now it doesn't do that. No noise. And power comes on very slowly. It moves. It just doesn't rocket forward with inspiration.
Any thoughts?
DR
Still on the same tune or did it somehow reset to stock? Can't imagine the DP by itself would cause that
How old was the catted downpipe? If that was getting clogged it can cause issues especially if your previous turbo was failing and leaked oil through the shaft seal and coated the cat with oil.
Still on the same tune or did it somehow reset to stock? Can't imagine the DP by itself would cause that
Same tune. Probably should have invested in a diagnostic from the local dealer. But, I'm a stoic and have been replacing pieces to the puzzle. I don't think it's the tune.
How old was the catted downpipe? If that was getting clogged it can cause issues especially if your previous turbo was failing and leaked oil through the shaft seal and coated the cat with oil.
I think the original cat was clogged. I replaced the turbo and cat at the same time. This time I invested in the down pipe and the new plugs. Seems to be working Dave for the slow spool up on the turbo. It has a mechanical bypass valve so it should work well. Thanks DR
Boost Spikes to 20 psi, then quickly falls to 2.5psi. My Autel registers up to 100 misfires per cold start and around 40 for a warm start. Gas mileage has fallen to below 20 combined when it was above 30 before tune. detonation on anything above half throttle.
Had the dealer Compression check and timing recheck, all good. Borescoped, looks good. No test plan available for diag.
Only codes, P0300 through P0304.
Oh, and just had the motor rebuilt 2000 miles ago with forged internals and a new set of valves.
Not sure of the cause on that sputter. I solved it with a new air mass meter. Brisk QR12 plugs, cleaned the air filter.
I’m curious about your rebuild. Total cost. What you replaced? Who did the machine work? I think I’ve found good shops here in Denver. The engine is half out of the car. I’m creating a list of costs so I can get this under control.
Bets, Dan Raabe
Not sure of the cause on that sputter. I solved it with a new air mass meter. Brisk QR12 plugs, cleaned the air filter.
I’m curious about your rebuild. Total cost. What you replaced? Who did the machine work? I think I’ve found good shops here in Denver. The engine is half out of the car. I’m creating a list of costs so I can get this under control.
Bets, Dan Raabe
Where to start on all my mods, lol
Mods
CP Forged Pistons 9.5:1 Compression
Carrillo Forged Connecting Rods
WMW Street Camshafts
JMTC S42 Turbocharger
Cravenspeed Koala Intake Manifold Spacer
Ported and Polished Exhaust Manifold
Both Noisemaker Deletes
JMTC Aluminum Hardpipe
JCW Exhaust
JCW Head gasket (was told this could lower the compression ratio if it was the S motor)
GoFastBits Recirriculating Valve Upgrade
Mishimoto Race Fan
Forge Motorsport Intercooler
Forge and Mishimoto Silicone hoses
HKS Heat Range 8 Spark Plugs
DDM Works Race Intake
NM Oil Catch Can
JCW Tuning Kit Programming for Transmission
My bill from the machine shop was about $1200 to put together the bottom end and top end separately. This place builds all the dirt track race motors for the dirt track racers in the area. From there the dealer I work at installed the motor. Total bill from them was around $8000 for labor and the GP2 brakes. The other aftermarket components were around $5000 or so.
Each item I replaced to fix the issues the car has developed has incrementally fixed it. The plugs are now the NGK ILKR8E6 one step colder that Manic recommended. The coils are the most recent updated ones.
I have ordered and should be here in a few weeks, the Owen MINI Hybrid 63.5HTA turbo and a Milltek Hi flow cat. Plan to have Manic retune the car. My techs think at this point the tune is the misfire issue and the boost issue is the turbo being junk. That's also what Manic told me about the turbo. My thoughts are I'm in too deep money wise to give up and I love the car too much to ever part with.
