So there we have it. There is now a brand new GEN6 tensioner available, will it never end?

 

The closest mini dealer is a 90 minute drive away. I'm going to go in and discuss this and leave with hopefully the correct tensioner.
The research I have found leads me to believe that any r56 that needs a new tensioner is getting the 82mm version which is the new standard. Previously this was considered the long version and the old standard was 78mm. Now which correct 82mm version I will find out.

 

Also, I read somewhere a while back that mini coopers lower the oil pressure on cold starts so the engine warms to operating temperature more quickly for emissions reasons. This is probably why the tensioners are looser on cold mornings. Also the 2011 and newer mini's also incorporated the oil control solenoid valve which was another method to control oil pressure and engine warm ups etc.
I found this info on google a while back. This was discussed in an article when they made the 2011 changes to the valve cover etc. etc.

 

OK, so one thing is obvious to me. None of the 2nd Gen Mini Coopers have the latest tensioner unless they have just had it replaced.
To me that is telling me that the previous tensioners were deficient and Mini Cooper should be replacing them with what is hopefully one that will finally work?
Shouldn't Mini Cooper at least be including all 2nd Gen Mini Coopers to include the N16 and N18 engine models in their "campaign"?

 

Some interesting reading to shed some light on the "Fully controlled oil pump.
On-demand oil supply delivers only as much oil as is actually required. Depending on operating conditions, the volume flow-controlled oil pump requires up to 1.25 kW less drive energy and reduces fuel consumption by up to 1 per cent. "


That rattle on cold start is kinda making sense now, **** poor idea, but as you will read, just enough required oil pressure.


Here's the link http://www.motoringfile.com/2004/12/...nge_in_detail/

 

Yep, they probably should but won't. I am a retired Honda mechanic so I will just replace it myself. My advice to you would be to save yourself the added stress in your life and pay the crooks to install the latest tensioner unless your a fighter which I am not.
That noise in your video and also in my 2010 r56 is no way normal. Any mechanic with any shred of honor in him would tell you it isn't normal.


Like my link spells out, they are using an oil pressure control system for quick warm ups. This means less oil pressure and the spring in the tensioner can't make up the difference. The oil control solenoid which is in the 2011 and newer models was probably an attempt to improve the system over my 2010 model.


Aren't we all glad they saved 1% fuel consumption

 

TREX, my parts guy at my local Mini dealer deals with a lot of timing chain tensioner/timing chain failures and see between 3-5 Mini's a week for replacement of all timing chain components. I talk with him every time I go there for parts to get the scoop of any part number changes or updates, he's super nice and deals with so many timing chain failures that when he speaks I trust him 100% percent. He knows his sh**. He has shown me his paperwork regarding the changes and updates to parts. It's my assumption based on my knowledge that you received at least a third generation tensioner at factory. The 82mm tensioner is longer so it can provide proper tension on the chain as it stretches. The standard 4th Gen can't and are limited.

 

Thanks, I've suspected it was an oil delivery/pressure problem with the timing chain tensioner all along.
Wish there were some way to override the oil pressure control system to increase the oil pressure at least at initial start up.
It's so obvious, why can't Mini Cooper fix this. While maybe a step in the right direction, I certainly don't think the oil control solenoid has resolved the timing chain problems.

 

There are aftermarket systems available which pressurize the system before start up. They are used in high performance race engines etc. I don't think they sustain the pressure which is what would be required. I haven't looked into anything like this but will be trying the newest tensioner when I can get to the dealer.


I remember when my wife started the car on the first cold winter morning, I could hear it from inside. It's a pretty unsettling sound. I damn near ran outside in my underwear to shut it down, lol. How anyone could consider that normal is beyond me. Betcha those engineers are proud.

 

If MANIC Tuning can alter coolant temp with their remaps why not oil pressure. We can all get tunes and send the bill to BMW for the cost of fixing their bad design

 

I believe that's true. Systemlord has the part number path correct.

The newest part out is the 11317607551 Gen 5 according to MINI that I have. This part have been re-revised and thus in the main timing chain kit.


The 11314609482 was a fix for stretched version chains but not stretched beyond the requirements, if stretched so beyond then they would replace the tensioner with ~551 and chain kit. It was case by case.

older info on the ~482 https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mini-s-3.html post #66

These parts have been SS forward and backwards over revisions which have maybe led to confusion. Hope that helps, that's the info I have from MINI.

 

Thank you for the clarification over the tensioner numbers, it is much appreciated.
I hope none of the Mini dealerships are using the 482 on un-stretched chains.
Speaking of chains, do you know anything about a stronger chain development that Systemlord also mentioned?
Everything I've looked at shows the chain has never changed.

 

If they could come up with a tune that would provide full oil pressure to the timing chain tensioner at start up, I for one would gratefully pay for this out of pocket.
Given this is Gen2 wide problem, I believe that if someone were to come up with a cure there would be a big market for it as virtually every Gen2 Mini Cooper would need it.

 

Given this and the fact that the cold start rattle seems worse in cold weather, I've been wondering if utilizing some sort of engine warming system like they use up north on diesels ?

 

You are welcome.

On the chain there was an update, part number did change a while back to 11318618317 for the N14 on the genuine BMW / MINI part, when you see the IWIS 11317516088 part under a old part number they send us the newest version automatically when it SS , so its the ~317 part also. I don't have an older chains to compare side by side. IWIS is the manufacturer of the factory chains.

 

Thanks, that's good news, I would assume then that all N16 and N18 models would be using this updated chain.
I would really like to know what is different between the old and the new though.
Again thanks, it is appreciated.

 

N16 N18 use the 11318618318 newest, older part : 11311439853 on IWIS which is now that ~318

 

OK, looks like the newest updated chain 318 came out on 05/25/2014 so my 2013 coupe would have the older 853 chain.
Again, wish I knew what the difference was.
I'm still under warranty (including CPO Next) until the end of 2018 so if my engine doesn't crater due to timing chain failure before then (which will be on Mini Cooper's nickel) I will seriously be looking at whatever the latest and greatest full timing chain replacement is at that time (which will be out of my pocket).

 

Most likely unless the dealership replaced it under a TSB or complaint when your car was in for service . Did you buy your MINI New ? If not, they can pull the service records. If so then your most likely on the original.

 

We purchased our 2013 Mini Cooper in 2013 with 3,000 miles on it from our only Mini dealership here in Oklahoma as a CPO Next certified car.
At 6,500 miles it started a very noticeable cold start rattle. This was this last winter and we left it with the dealership over night to check the cold start rattle, but they felt nothing was wrong with it so they just changed the oil/filter and called it good.
As it started getting much warmer the cold start rattle has become less noticeable.
Here is what it sounded like when we took it into the dealership.
https://vimeo.com/120077671


So yes, it still has the original timing chain assembly that it came from the factory with.

 

Thanks for the info. Glad I could help.

Does not sound too loud, I can hear what sounds like the injectors, but not DI. But the audio here is not the best.

*edited

 

The difference between the older chain and the newer chain is it's simply a stronger timing chain, less stretching, less wear and tear . It's a chain, not a rocket. Same with the tensioner, stronger better materials and better tolerances.

 

It's not direct injected, so it's not the injectors you're hearing. The sound is coming from the timing chain assembly on the passenger side of the engine and quiets down after engine has warmed up, I believe because the tensioner is finally building enough oil pressure.
Thank you for all the information, it has clarified much and I'm sure helped other Mini owners out there better understand what they have and probably need.

 

TREX, every time you hear that rattle or whatever sound you're associating with the timing chain noise your chain is flopping around while not properly tensioned and is stretching. I don't understand why your Mini dealer hasn't replaced your slowly but surely inevitable failure of your timing chain components. The reason I think is there hoping it happens out of warrenty, if you had no warranty they would be telling you it needs to be delt with soon.

 

Yes, I don't disagree with you. I don't think they realized it was a CPO Next car.
When I tried getting it scheduled for oil change service and to have them look at the timing chain rattle it was the first of November and the service manager put off servicing it until after the first of this year which would put it to where the maintenance agreement would expire before next needing service.
So that coupled with the service managers claim that all timing chain problems were caused by owners not keeping oil in their cars, left me with as less than comfortable feeling about how they might be to deal with if something were to happen with the timing chain at a latter date.
So when he told me everything sounded just fine along with his opinion on timing chain failures I told him fine, it's under warranty, I'll just drive it and if I have any more problems I'll just bring it bring it back in.
If the car does make it through the factory warranty without the timing chain failing I think I'll wait until it's good and cold out and bring it back in for the cold start rattle and see if they want to do something about it then and if so then let them know it's still covered under the extended CPO Next warranty.
One thing I will not do is change anything on this car outside the dealership while it is under warranty.