So I consider my self a pretty good diy mechanic but I started at 830 am today and just finished off at 215 pm...didn't remove the carrier and didn't have to discharge the ac but I did have to remove the entire bypass valve from the intake and had to let the water pump flange loose before I could get pump to align all with the help from the misses! But now we shall see if my stationary overheating is fixed it seemed to take a bit longer to get up to temp then it did prior.

Just thought I would share!

 

Grats!!!! No pics?

 

Ha pics...I was amazed I kept my sanity...lol

 

6 hrs not too bad. If you got it done, YOU kicked IT'S ***.
So were the WP gears gone (and PTO gear ok) or did the WP seal fail? Enquiring minds want to know.

 

I honestly didn't even check, so relived jus to get new pump in, however you could see the corrosion around the pump housing so I would say the gears where definitely shot as the car spiking temp when idling then would subside when moving, after water pump car no longer spikes when idling.

 

Nice job getting it done!

The gears on the supercharger drive the water pump, so hopefully yours are ok and you won't have to go back in there again.
Would have been a great time to check the oil in the sc too, but maybe you serviced yours recently and know its good

 

Well just took it on its first drive to my office and it didn't go above 202 on road and 204 in traffic, however it would seem that after I got to work and pulled in to a spot, killed the heat and let it sit the temp rose to 215. Shut it down and will check it later but that's odd isn't it?

 

Does not seem odd to me. The heater was robbing some heat from the radiator and by doing that keeping it cooler. When you turned off the heater it no longer was helping disapate the heat from the radiator so the temp went up. Also when you turn the engine off it will super heat because because the coolant is no longer moving. Like what was happening with your car even though it was running. Besides 215 temp is not to bad.

 

Good to know this, I have coolant in the boot just in case. To be honest I am a little gun shy now and will be watching the Temps via my borrowed scan gauge like a hawk for a while.

 

So now the saga continues, took mcs on longest continuous drive today and all was great, finished my work at a customer site and headed back the way I came but only half way this time...whipped in to mcds for a quick lunch in drive through car almost over heated hit 229 before I could get out of drive through...once moving and back to 200 ish temp car was fine and didn't over heat...now what would cause that? Is my low speed fan resistor gone? I tried the ac trick with hvac on feet and dash with temp at 70 on dash and hit the ac button compressor engaged but fan didn't spin. Checked fuses under hood and nothing is blown. I have the single plug unit so could relay be shot in fuse panel, or motor it self? Before water pump I did hear fan kick on stage 2 when Temps hit 232. Thanks for the help folks, it's been trying time!

 

Per the Bentley manual, and confirmed by my ScanGauge, the fan operates at low speed at 221F, and turns off at 214F. The fan switches to high speed at 234F and remains on high until the coolant temps drops by 7F. Supposedly it also turns on when the AC is on and the AC system pressure reaches 8 bar (114psi)

First guess would be bad fan resistor. I discovered my AC had died after I replaced the fan, and it wouldn't turn on with AC (which was not blowing cold.) Fan is not too bad a job. You should be a pro having already done the water pump. :/

 

Thanks Eric, less than 70 for fan assembly from RockAuto so that will be done or the resistor jump method and have the fan run full bore each stage for now as that cost is nada. I will stay out of drive throughs for now as car is fine otherwise. Will update this thread after I replace the fan and see if my temps finally stabilize in ALL driving conditions...lol