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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
So I need to consider valve seals, vacuum pump, and CCV as oil culprits. My retirement budget is quite lean; what happens if I just keep adding oil and drive? I'm at 106,000 and want to go for years more. Will I start damaging the engine if I just feed it oil?
Just thought I'd compile some separate data. I don't know of many non-S's that consume oil. My 08 with near 100k miles never consumed a drop, and it was autox-ed. If it's a problem with the direction injection, well the non-S coopers don't have DI so it shouldn't be that. Frankly break-in procedure shouldn't matter all that much unless there was a flaw from the factory.
So, have at it. Who's got issues? At least for me, none here on my 08, and not enough data on my 13 yet.
2011 non-S Cooper 77K miles - suddenly began seeing oil pressure light blink on/off making turns, sporadically. Never lost oil before and had to replace 2.5 qts! Import garage checked & need to replace the valve cover to correct. Scheduled for this week to avoid any possible damage long term. No leaking under car or on engine and no exhaust smoke. Only symptom was oil pressure light during turns. My garage says if you wait to see smoking, likely much damage already done and lots more to repair - $$$! Hope this is helpful info to not wait on repair if it's losing oil. Had oil changes every 5K with synthetic oil as recommended.
I pour 1 quarts every second fuel tank which is equals to around 1000km in my Justa. I will be changing the PCV valve cover in the next few days and hopefully that cures it and will update my post.
Changing PVC valve cover? Why would this help? Does a defective cover allow excess oil to somehow enter the intake? Is this a known issue/common problem?
My Justa has always used oil between changes since new. Oil usage has gone up quite a bit over the last year plus I have recently noticed the valve cover leaking (now at 56,000 miles). So with this thread and others pointing to a bad CCV design in the valve cover being the culprit I just replaced the valve cover. When I did I also found oil in 2 of the spark plug tubes so the gaskets were failing there too. I topped up the oil and am eager to see if this new valve cover solves the oil consumption issue. I will check back in with my findings.
Update. Since I replaced my PCV valve cover and gaskets my justa traveled 2200 km and not a single drop of oil! Before I need to put 1 quart every 1000 kilometer. So if you have oil burning issues and no leaks somewhere better change your cover and gaskets. The dealer showed me how to know if your valve is stuck is to shake it. Mine was dead silent and the new one has this flap shaking noise. I was told that if you don't hear that sound then it is all gummed up and needs to be replaced. Dealer advices to get this replaced every 70-80k and should be part of the maintenance of the car.
I just ordered a $30 kit from Russia that replaces the diaphragm in the PCV system in the valve cover. I will report back to the success or failure of this kit. If it fixes it, that is better than $300+ for a valve cover.
Please do get back to us on this. I'm anxious to stop the oil guzzling.
I just found it on eBay by typing' N12 valve cover diaphragm '.
$30, plus $15 shipping and about 6 weeks...
Last edited by TorchMINI; Dec 18, 2017 at 05:03 AM.
OK,
My new $30 CCV diaphragm is in from Russia (less than 4 weeks). It goes in tomorrow if my Indie garage can figure out how to install it. I shall report on oil consumption shortly after that.
OK,
My new $30 CCV diaphragm is in from Russia (less than 4 weeks). It goes in tomorrow if my Indie garage can figure out how to install it. I shall report on oil consumption shortly after that.
I received my part today and I installed it. I also gutted the original cover and attached it on top of the new part. The average person will never notice the slight gap at the rearmost point. Now we see if the consumption stops. I’ll report back with updates.
I had my local indie garage install the new Russian "BMW' CCV valve. $30 to install, must be easy for a DIY type home mechanic. Now I'm hoping that this vent is the major cause of my sad oil use rather than valve seals or rings or other expensive things.
Old valve on top right, new $30 valve quickly installed. Now to drive 1000 miles to check oil use, asap :-)
Last edited by TorchMINI; Jan 11, 2018 at 08:19 AM.
I have a 2010 Cooper Clubman (non-S). It was burning it like a mother...took it onto Mini Repair multiple times with no resolution. Had extended warranty to 100,000 miles. At 112,000 miles they said it need new seals, cover, all kinds of crap for $3,000. Prior to this was told it was a "function of the motor". Bunch of crap. Bottom line, we replaced the grommets and gasket around the valve cover as well as the oil fill cap for a grand total of about $350...not burning oil anymore. My wife was putting in about a quart every 10 days prior to that. Not pleased at all with the Mini Dealer Repair shops. We took it into 3 places: Pittsburgh Mini, Baltimore Mini, Orlando Mini. Orlando is where they wanted $3,000. Pittsburgh and Baltimore is where both places said it was normal.
I would like to report success with the Bursar Tools Russian PCV diaphragm part. Over 2000 miles since install and zero oil consumption! Best $40 spent ever!
I would like to report success with the Bursar Tools Russian PCV diaphragm part. Over 2000 miles since install and zero oil consumption! Best $40 spent ever!
Could you tell me more about this diaphragm? I'm interested but pretty unclear as to what it does and how it does it.
Could you tell me more about this diaphragm? I'm interested but pretty unclear as to what it does and how it does it.
Those of us with N12 oil consumption issues, like my quart every 600 miles, have pondered getting a new valve cover with its integrated CCV for a $400 possible fix. The original CCVs are known to stop functioning causing crankcase pressure and thus (somehow) lots of oil consumption. This $30 part replaces only the CCV part of the cover and goes in without much effort or cost. It allows the crankcase to breath again.
Mine has apparently cut my wasted oil about in half as I still lost a quart after about 1300 miles, unlike Ive'sMini which seems to be back to spec now. Congratulations Ive!
After putting in the new CCV I also found that my vacuum pump was leaking oil too, so it's been replaced now ($130 + labor) so I may do even better on oil- yet to be determined just how well. Miles are hard to pile up in the deep snow of dead winter up here :-(
If anyone knows more about the mechanical workings of these CCVs please chime in.
Those of us with N12 oil consumption issues, like my quart every 600 miles, have pondered getting a new valve cover with its integrated CCV for a $400 possible fix. The original CCVs are known to stop functioning causing crankcase pressure and thus (somehow) lots of oil consumption. This $30 part replaces only the CCV part of the cover and goes in without much effort or cost. It allows the crankcase to breath again.
Mine has apparently cut my wasted oil about in half as I still lost a quart after about 1300 miles, unlike Ive'sMini which seems to be back to spec now. Congratulations Ive!
After putting in the new CCV I also found that my vacuum pump was leaking oil too, so it's been replaced now ($130 + labor) so I may do even better on oil- yet to be determined just how well. Miles are hard to pile up in the deep snow of dead winter up here :-(
If anyone knows more about the mechanical workings of these CCVs please chime in.
Interesting, thanks. Dumb question... but is my engine (2011 base model) an N12? I also lose oil so this would be a great fix if it worked.
This part lives under that little cover at the top corner of the valve cover. As you remove the cover, all the clips will break. Be careful to catch the broken pieces. Once off, remove the orange diaphragm and install the new one. Then clip on the new cover they supply. You are then done, I suppose the diaphragm either weakens over time or loses its sealing capabilities. This causes oil to be sucked into the intake manifold. This is the part that causes it but it is not serviced by itself. You are forced to buy a valve cover for close to $400. This is the part that truly causes the issue, not the valve cover itself.
