Well, I've read just about every thread I could find relating to igniters and the R53 MCS HID assembly in general. In the process it became very clear that these lights pretty much suck and are prone to expensive failure sooner or later. Never in 30 years and more vehicles that I can remember have I encountered such nonsense about headlights! This seems a clear case of too much technology for a simple device. OK, off the soap box and on to the issue/questions...

So, I've followed the well documented protocols for analyzing a malfunctioning light. Switched the bulbs from "good" to "bad" side as well as the control unit/ballast. I don't get the same results each time. So, I can't really eliminate one item or another for sure except for the bulbs. They are fine.

My driver side Xenon mostly won't fire up. Sometimes it does. Sometimes when it didn't, I can turn the lights on/off and it may come on, other times it won't. Today, for example, it came on right away, but after a few minutes shut off. Each time I turned off/on it would come back for a few minutes and then off again. I also noticed it appeared brighter than the passenger one (in the bumper reflection of car ahead) but perhaps it could be aimed a little differently, etc...

There are only so many (expensive) parts to this system. The one that can't be easily checked or replaced is the igniter. Assuming this is the actual bad part, what role does it have ONCE the light is lit? I know it provides the initial jolt, but does it do anything after that? What I'm getting at is, if the light turns off after it is on could the igniter still be at fault or is current strictly managed by ballast at that point?

With deep pockets, this is an easy fix, just plunk down $1200+ and replace both headlights with all new assemblies... Obviously, that is ridiculous! What are the more approachable options for this? Are there any plug & play solutions for an 03 MCS other than new OEMs? Can they be easily converted to an all Halo system? Since the root of the problem can't be 100% identified, I don't really want to throw $100's in getting spare (in most cases used even) parts that don't fix the issue. I already bought new bulbs just in case they were the problem, but they weren't.

One thing I accidentally found out (since I knew little about these lights) was that if the twist connector is left off the bulb and lights are turned on, it creates a rapid sparking noise which I assume is the igniter sending high voltage pulses to the light. I tried this on the non working light and it is silent. No pulsing at all. Is this strictly controlled by igniter or is the ballast involved in that as well? Ugh! So many questions in understanding this system!

Help me pleeeeaaase!

 

One tip..as the bulb "wears out" the color turns slightly pink just before the "burn out"...or more appropriately, fail to light...they are an ARC light...and the gap slowly gets bigger...to the point the charge cannot jump the gap...then no light...
I would suspect the bulbs are both toast.....xenon bulbs do not wear by hours of use, but by the number of times they are turned on....so the fact (if I recall right) one started to misbehave ...then another....
I think the "zapppp" you were hearing is the initial higher voltage thstbis used to "ignite" or warm up...once the ballast determines the bulb is "warmed up", it switches to a lower voltage... This is why aftermarket Xenon lights can pulse/strobe when put on a car that has canbuss wiring that uses electronics to "pulse" the voltage to lengthen the life of the bulb, and allow features like drl's(run at lower voltage).

 

Just saw you said you tried new bulbs...
Guess that means the ignitor is bad....

 

One thought...
Going from halogen to aftermarket Xenon can be done with new housings (best way), but since you have wiring for xenon's.... You might need to modify the cars wiring to make it work...

 

I agree that too many of these assemblies fail. For me, 2003 R53, it was the drivers side and I replaced it with the aftermarket Hella assembly. The left one is 010071031 and 010071041 is the right. $375 from Amazon, you may find them elsewhere, and in 15 minutes you are good to go. It’s a simple fix but be careful of the squirter. It is easy to break if you are not careful.

Much cheaper than the dealer and the Hella is the SAME PART.

Good luck.

///Rich

 

Good find...
but if you are gonna do that..
get the 2005+ Refresh projectors on amazon...the projector style is SUPERIOR to the earlier reflector type...and they are plug and play...

 

Also to add to zippy, the facelift xenons had replaceable ignitors. The early cars had the ignitor hardwired to the housing. Whe housing had to be replaced for a bad ignitor. And id spring for the facelift xenons as well because projectors are far better than reflectors

 

OK, you have my attention on these... Are they direct replacements for the 03 OEMs? Will they work seamlessly with the lens washers? I'm gonna go search for them right now, but if you can provide a link to them so I can be sure to be looking at the right ones that would be great too. I'm guessing since I'd have to replace both sides it won't be cheap!!


EDIT**** Sorry, I just noticed that Zippy's quote had the part # in it. I thought he was quoting earlier post with the OEMs...

 

Plug and play since you have factory xenon lights. Not exactly cheap but worth it over the reflectors you have now

 

OK. Interestingly, everywhere I look the sites say it won't fit. Is that just because it wasn't the OEM? Seems if they function better and drop in / connect like the originals then they would sell more if they mentioned that they also retrofit the older vehicles...

I'll have to look for someone on NAM that has done this already. Would hate to drop $700+ only to find out there's a glitch of some kind! Looks like the cheapest ones are on Amazon and they only have 1 left of the driver side right now. We'll need to keep an eye on this.

Thanks for the info!

 

They ARE the OEM parts....just for the "facelift" cars....they fit the older gen1 cars too...many folks have bought used facelift headlights off of wrecked cars to install in the pre-2005 cars....
Was not aware till it was pointed out WHO the oem maker was for the part...
It is very common that oem parts can be bought from the maker of the part rather than the dealer for lower cost....
It is more interesting imo that the newer, better headlights are actually CHEAPER than the older ones.. On Amazon anyway with a 10 second check...... But there are other sellers I bet...Options on used...but imo, the facelift xenon's are the best option if you can afford it...awesome light Output..and oem quality, fit and finish...
If money is tight... You could use the "joey mod" trick to open the old housings up...and install new ignitotors....then re-seal. Would make the old ones work...but output is still iffy...but guess it comes down to $700 or taking a chance on a $150 fix (guess) to get back to the light out you are not happy with....

 

Zippy, I agree. Actually found this older post that essentially confirms what you and others are saying here.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/interior-exterior/182025-03-mc-s-headlamp.html#post2964187

It's more than just the $$. It's the principle that I'm looking at $700+ to fix what a $20 bulb always did. I do like the projectors better, so I'm going to keep an eye out for a set I can purchase at the same time rather than getting one side and hoping for the other. No way am I going through the Joey Mod thing!

 

Had the same issue, Drivers side went out so I did a quick troubleshoot by simply switching the control modules that are attached to the bottom of each headlight assembly and sure enough the drivers side fired right up so i just went and bought a new control module, granted it was $300 but problem is solved. I'd suggest swapping control modules as that will tell you right away if your issue is with the ballast (non-replaceable on pre facelift) or the xenon control module which is easily replaceable, seriously takes about 3 minutes.

Sorry, just noticed that you said you did swap the control modules, you are most likely looking at a bad ignitor which is as you know not easily replaceable

 

Indi... Included in my OP you can see I already did that...