I miss that super charger whine. Man I loved that sound.

 

Me tooo The sweet sound to my ears!

 

I'm going to start a thread.. about seriously fixing, or preventing issues with the R56. These BS issues can be fixed... A bolt backing out? No one fixed this yet? Oil shooting to the DME from the Vanos solenoids? No one thought to install some sort of "trap" in a wire harness.. ? Crappy T-stat housings... how about a reinforced aluminum model that won't warp or crack..? I'd be willing to spend 2x the cost of the part if it really meant it would fix these issues.

I know every car has issues, but these ones just seem too easy to cure.. I'm not saying this as a know it all, I'm saying it as someone who teaches how to fix crap for a living..

 

+1 You Go Dan!

 

Just an update for everyone. Car is still at the stealership. They gave me a loaner so at least I can get to and from work. Got a call today from the service advisor saying that the tensioner bolt did in fact back out and that's where the oil came from, no real surprise there. Due to the oil spray I also need a drive belt, I'm assuming this means serpentine belt, and an oil pan gasket. They are also having trouble starting it and recommend a new battery but I'm pretty sure the original shop left the keys in the ignition overnight, nothing a battery tender can't fix I hope. Haven't heard anything regarding the factory helping with the costs. Also no word on internal engine damage. Anybody had issues doing serpentine belt or spark plugs on the R56?

 

I do hope they cover this for you. Are they also replacing the oil pan gasket? The belt and plugs are things you could do. If doing the plugs yourself make sure you torque them. I would also be a little concerned at what they are going to cover on this. Otherwise things can add up fast! Whats your feeling on this? Do you feel they are going to cover these things? Good luck!

 

I'm surprised - why would a properly torqued tensioner back out?
Had it been replaced previously?

This is not the usual failure scenario. Normally, the old tensioners fail to do their job (tension), and the loose chain starts slapping around taking out the plastic guide rails, and stretching itself further and further.

The belt and spark plugs are regular wear items.
When I had my timing tensioner and chain done under warranty at 45K miles (no oil spills, just diesel engine noise on start-up), the dealer inquired if I want to buy a new belt or have the old one reinstalled. I gladly agreed to pay for new one.

I replaced the spark plugs as regular wear item at 50K miles.
They are inexpensive on Amazon, moderately pricey from usual MINI retailers, and likely obnoxiously over-priced at the dealer. All of the same NGK plugs.

a

 

They had issues with a number of cars having the tensioner back out, back when these cars were new (2010 -early 2011) there were a number of threads on this forum about it, sounds like the OP's took a lot longer to have it happen. The issue was they weren't torqued correctly at the factory. the cure was to replace the crush washer and tighten it back up, assuming the engine wasn't run too long after the light came on and ruined the bearings.


Once tightened properly I don't remember hearing of one that came loose again.

 

The factory covered the failure 100% which saved me over $2000. I ended up paying $870 dollars for some other work that was needed, serpentine belt, spark plugs, oil pan gasket, and brake fluid flush. Most of which were due anyway.

I was extremely impressed with the customer service at Motorwerks MINI. Their main priority was taking care of me.

 

That's good to hear they took care of you! I also get work done there on my MINI. I was curious to see how they were going to take care of you. Glad it all worked out!

 

+1000

 

Not one to pull up old threads but wanted to give everyone an update.

Timing chain and tensioner were done by Motorwerks mini. They covered most of that but we ran into other issues in the process. Spark plugs, oils pain gasket, brake line flush etc.

Got the car back and a check engine light came on. Called the dealership and told them what was going on. Because I had just gotten soaked for ~1000 dollars for this job I decided to hold off on bringing the car back right away. The car ran fine if I cleared the codes, and the light only came on in 6th gear while accelerating.

Fast forward a few months. Intermittent CEL. Busted fog light and a few other issues. Called the dealership to get the car in to get it up to snuff.

Dealership determines that the MAP sensor is bad and replace that. 330$ plus other work totaling ~500$.

Drive home and CEL returns before getting home. Bring car back, find that vacuum line had been disconnected. Drive car home.

CEL returns on a Sunday afternoon. Call dealership. No call back Monday, clear code myself Tuesday afternoon. Dealership finally calls back, but can't read the codes because I cleared it. Took shop foreman for drive, can't reproduce.

CEL returns for me a few days later.

Bring car in. Determine that there is still a vacuum leak. Determine the valve cover is warped. Replaced. Determine timing is off, replace timing chain and tensioner AGAIN!!! Keep in mind this particular repair took over 30 days. The good-will gesture they offered would have been enough to keep me happy but...

Drive car home this morning. CEL returned tonight.

 

So you pay to have the timing chain assembly again, MAP sensor and all this other stuff and your no closer to fixing the problem. It should be against the law to get hosed several times, the dealer should refund you for everything they hosed you for because you are no closer to a solution. Why should you have to pay for the dealers misdiagnosis?

You need to have a serious discussion with the manager at your dealer, firm but without being rude and hint at perhaps having a lawyer accompany you.

 

For the record I didn't have to pay for the timing chain/tensioner either time. The stuff I had to pay for originally was ruined by the oil that sprayed everywhere. This time they didn't even tell me the timing chain was bad until I came to pick it up, just told me the timing was off.

The MAP sensor is being refunded, the labor anyway.
The valve cover was done at "cost" ~524$. I'm sure we'll be discussing that tomorrow.
The good will gesture was 250$ in accessories. I spent that on brake pads, rotors and sensors. I planned to do the work myself since they can't even manage to fix a CEL. Should I trust them with my brakes?

If the vehicle was still under warranty it would probably fall under Lemon Law, but it's got 91,000 miles.

 

Do you know what the CEL code its throwing is?

 

I can't find my notes right now, but one of the codes is CC-029. The other I can't remember but it indicated a vacuum leak as far as I can tell.

Edit: probably P1497

 

I would definately be discussing that valve cover. They have to take it off in order to do the Timing Chain job. If they screwed up the vacuum lines and misdiagnosed the MAP sensor, then they probably messed up the valve cover. Possibly over or under tightening the bolts. This is just a clusterfcuk.

 

Dropped it off tonight. We'll see what tomorrow brings. I'm ready to trade it in, but they offered me almost 6k less than what I owe on it.

 

Car dealers and sellers never give you what your car is worth, they make more money on trade-ins than selling you a new car. They don't even come close to a fair price on trade-ins. After replacing my flywheel and clutch components costings $3200 my dealer offered me $6000 for my 07 MCS, if you think about it they really only are offering me half of the offer since I just spent half on my MCS. So the trade-in would have been $2800. How insulting!

 

It all comes down to Production cost. Sure they could make a trap, sure they could have an alumium housing, and everything you guys are saying ,but the cost would sky rocket.

When producing cars, they fight over pennies, and fraction of pennies on parts cost...3cents over every mini cooper made, is A LOT of money.

 

Now they think it's a brake booster. We'll see I guess.