I needed more than just shoes. LOL, stupid filter housing.

 

I had no trouble last week with the filter housing but destroyed the drain plug in the process. Glad I had a spare plug before I started!

Sure is a tight fit to get that filter housing off!

 

This kinda sounds like the oil filter housing was WAY over-torqued. If I recall correctly, it only needs to be torqued down to like 18 ft-lbs. I've never needed anything other than my ratchet & 36mm socket.

I've also found I have a damn hard time re-threading the oil filter housing to the engine...usually takes me 2-3 tries to get it threaded properly (ie. not cross threaded), before I can tighten it down.

 

Yeah, I was worried about the drain plug too after reading about the issues people had with them so I bought a backup just in case....came right off though. Go figure, not that I'm complaining.

 

Well the previous owner was on the 10k mile oil change schedule (makes me cringe) so I think it just kind of fused itself together over so many heat cycles. I change my cars oil every 4k so I dont anticipate having that issue again. I also lubed up the o-ring and the threads and torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

I was worried about getting the housing back on after reading all the stories but I didn't have any issues.

 

Well happy that ur oil filter housing issue worked. I see you didn't take it completely off like I did. Mine was worse but now got it back onto the block installed and torqued.

Ohh by the way I always replace the oil drain plug. They suppose to be one time use since it uses a crush washer inside.

 

We have the drain plug in stock here:

Great to have in-case you ruin the head on the old one, sometimes the rubber seal can stick to the pan and make it hard to remove the plug.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11137513050/ES19007/

 

get a Fumoto and forget about the poorly designed bung . . .

 

That's my next mini-MINI mod.

 

I ordered an oil filter to block gasket just in case but fortunately I didn't have to use it. I also ordered the drain plug but I changed the oil before it arrived so I'll use it next time.

 

I did my first oil change a few weeks ago, I bought the proper tools (the filter one and the allen wrench for the oil drain), then I took to a gas station that had an elevator and asked to pay to use it. A kid on his 18's said that he could help me, I explained what I was going to do, he went inside, got an extension and wrench, he tightened a little bit and then it came loose right out, I was in and out of the place in about 20 minutes. He got a 30 bucks tip, and I pretty much watched it.

 

Necro on this thread but it helped me tonight. Had oil change done last time by Indy and it took a breaker bar with rocking back and forth to break the thing loose. Totally ticked off at my Indy cuz I've probably done 12 to 15 oil changes on this car never had the oil filter cap stuck.

 

I have tried all the tools and extensions with varying success but now use a 36mm big ol box wrench I got at Northern Tool for fifteen bucks and that is now my go to tool for oil changes. Works great!

 

Mine was on so tight, I actually broke the 36mm hex on the housing. I machined a 15 sided tool to fit on the canister and work with a 1/2 breaker bar. I removed it in the morning with the engine cold and used a hammer to tap on the housing as counter-clockwise torque was applied. (really a 2 person job)
It took some force but eventually broke loose. I applied anti-seize to the threads and oil to the O-ring and installed a new canister.

Hopefully not pushing the oil change intervals will avoid any future problems.

If anyone else has broken the hex I would be willing to lend the tool I made to help out. No charge, just pay the shipping both ways.

5904

 

I change my own oil, I don't put the cannister on with excessive torque, but
I do find it's still hard to break it loose the next time around.
I always use a 36 mm shallow 6-point socket and a 1/2 " breaker bar, and it
always takes me a few good tries before it budges, but it always budges eventually.
Same thing with the oil pan bolt. 1/2" 6 point socket and a regular socket wrench
always takes a bit of muscle to break loose - no problem if I use a breaker bar or
a longer than average socket wrench here except for the room to use it.
Here I think the rubber on the bolt binds tighter than the torque specs would indicate.

 

I had these filter caps seized and the cap will just break off instead. The only way that they come off is heating the housing with a torch and holding with bench vise and using large pipe wrench. if i can't get them off with my 3/8 ratchet I stop and sell customer a housing assembly or removal of housing I don't like to use a torch in that enclosed area. Most of the cases I always see fast lube oil change sticker in the windshield.

 

Least you didn't see what I saw in mine. The block off cap(plunger deal) with spring was just laying inside my housing and a couple of the plastic tabs were broken off. I just set it back to position and have my fingers crossed that it came out in an oil change unnoticed.

 

If I where you I would replace the whole housing and the gaskets while your at it, they are eventually going to fail. The water/oil heat exchanger ones are also going to fail. Also if it been stuck once its going to get stuck again.

 

Yeah, DIY with careful tightening is key. All of my changes are either me or the dealer. I have 98k on a 2005 S, and I don't have any issues. Other than not coming off, are there other warning signs?

 

These stuck oil filter caps usually happens after the last oil change was done by fast lube places or general repair shops every time I can see the sticker on the windshield and there cheap oil filters. Please stay away from those 29.99 oil changes do you oil change at you local german or BMW shop if you don't have one than go to your mini dealer

 

Mine's currently stuck and I'll be getting the 1/2 gear to pop it free. Which way is to loosen though - clockwise (towards to right passenger wheel) or counter (towards the back driver's wheel)? I don't want to muckle onto it in the wrong direction and damage the housing, or my knuckles.

 

What is a 1/2 gear?? Righty tighty lefty loosey -- same as all the other nuts/bolts (I think)

if you are standing at the front of the car looking at the engine - to loosen it push on the breaker bar away from the wheel -- its awkward.

 

1/2" gear - all my stuff is 3/8". I didn't want to risk my hands to "That 70's Show" advice lol, that's why I didn't assume anything.

 

Gotcha -- haha...

I am using a 3/8" with a breaker to fit the 36mm oil filter housing removal tool I got off of Amazon. Its possible -- you just need to put some leverage on it... the breaker I am using is only 18" I think -- which generates enough torque to get it off. There is also a SPACE issue... you wont be able to get anything much longer in there unless you want to remove the hood.

 

I'm pretty strong (powerlifter) and I was moving the car and started to twist the square bit where the socket attaches to the breaker bar. Same length 18". The car is new to me and it's my first oil change on it, so I imagine some garage or lube shop didn't torque it to spec, but just pounded the hell out of it with an impact driver.