Battery lead very hot [First post!]
Battery lead very hot [First post!]
Hi Guys, ive been lurking around here for a while. You seem like a great bunch so i thought id ask about my issue here.
2005 MCS
I was testing my battery yesterday and noticed that my secondary positive lead, on the battery. Not the one connected to the battery, but the one after (thats supposed to blow off when airbags go off) is VERY hot. As in, i cant touch it. I have disconnected that lead 2 months ago and sanded the male part with some sand paper.
I'm wondering if this is a dirty lead, or im having some sort of a resistance issue... or maybe its something else? I'm really out of ideas.
2005 MCS
I was testing my battery yesterday and noticed that my secondary positive lead, on the battery. Not the one connected to the battery, but the one after (thats supposed to blow off when airbags go off) is VERY hot. As in, i cant touch it. I have disconnected that lead 2 months ago and sanded the male part with some sand paper.
I'm wondering if this is a dirty lead, or im having some sort of a resistance issue... or maybe its something else? I'm really out of ideas.
Hot after sitting....driving....idleing....
was the sanded repair clean and smooth, maybe with a dap of dielectric grease? Or just cleaned up and bolted on. Everything else ok? Car starting fine?
Just testing the battery cause you looked? Or is there an underlying issue....slow crank/no crank?!
was the sanded repair clean and smooth, maybe with a dap of dielectric grease? Or just cleaned up and bolted on. Everything else ok? Car starting fine?
Just testing the battery cause you looked? Or is there an underlying issue....slow crank/no crank?!
Cranks well, it just died on the highway two months ago. All the lights on the dash came on, i shut the car off, the traffic was stopped dead. It wouldn't start after. Battery got charged and the car was fine again.
Two days ago all of a sudden the traction control light came on, and my clock reset. So i thought id test the battery. The batt tested at 13.8v after running, and at 12.04 after 1 minute of lights on. The tester basically said "Replace battery".
so... there could be a million underlying issue, the car is rebuilt :(
Two days ago all of a sudden the traction control light came on, and my clock reset. So i thought id test the battery. The batt tested at 13.8v after running, and at 12.04 after 1 minute of lights on. The tester basically said "Replace battery".
so... there could be a million underlying issue, the car is rebuilt :(
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A few mini's have had issues with a battery cable chafing...since youhave a very hot cable, sounds like you might have a short....thace the cable that is hot...bet it is chafed on the underside of the car....not sure the exact route, but i remember a few folks replacing the cable....but i think a repair is likly possible if you take measures to waterproof and protect the repair/splice.
Hit a bump...open the cut chafe, ground it out...wire gets hot..batt goes dead...maybe start a fire. Same for when it gets wet...sealed cable ok....but a cut in the insulation..
add som3 moisture...then the dust or the salt on our roads that coat everything...and you have a conductor.
Most auto parts stores sell plastic flexable wire tubes in various lengths and colors. It comes with a split in it so you can put orginal wires in the tube without having to remove any of the wires. Maybe this will help if you may have a wire or cable that has rubbed the covering off; try to use electric tape first to seal the bare wires or cables if you locate any. Then put the wire or cable in the flexable wire tubes .................
There is also the appropriate sized vacuum hose or fuel hose, split it length wise and place it over your wires, and if you need additional waterproofing you can also fill the hose with some silicone before wrapping it around the wire(s).
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