Hi all

While I depress the clutch (car running or not), I get 3-5 tick noises coming from under the hood.
When the car is running and I depress the clutch, I also get a squeak. The squeak is getting worse.

both these noises only happen while i'm in the process of pressing/releasing the clutch. When it's held pressed, no unusual noises.

I jacked the car up yesterday and was crawling all around in/under/over it and couldn't isolate the source of the squeaks or ticks.

I checked my bentley manual and it's decidedly unhelpful with clutch part diagrams/etc.

I have no idea what i'm looking for or where to look at this point.

I was told that the problem is likely a crappy nylon bushing and can be ignored/replaced easily, but i'd like to be sure.

2005 MCC with about 55k miles of mostly street driving.
Brake fluid flush done by mini dealer about a year ago.
new clutch at 20k replaced under warranty.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

 

As for the clicking noise when operating the clutch there is only two areas I can think of that will cause that noise. The lever the operates the master clutch cylinder or the lever attached to the slave cylinder. This is a hydralic clutch so that is the only places with moving parts. But with the squeak while operating the clutch w/ engine running that points to the throw-out bearing that operates the clutch. Then doing a clutch job, a mechanic may not replace the throwout bearing to save money, which I was once quilty of on my car. Throwout bearing may operate at that time but is usually is the first to go after the a clutch replacement. This may also be the source of the clicking sound you are hearing. If the bearings are worn you may only hear the clicking when the bearing is not spinning..

As alway get a second opinon before commiting the work. A good time to get someone to look at is before the problem gets really bad...

Good Luck

 

Okay...
Where should I be looking to find the clicking? The bentley manual is all but useless for locating clutch parts/components.

The clutch job was 35k miles ago, and under warranty for most of the people from my model year. I have no idea if they would have replaced the TOB.

How bad is it if the bearing goes? Will things become more obvious as it gets worse if it is the problem?

I don't trust my dealer very much, so I'd prefer to either do the work myself if possible, or at least personally verify that the work needs to be done.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed? I'm a mechanical engineer, so I'm excited to take the car apart, but I've got little experience so far. Also lacking in the 100s of special BMW tools that may or may not be necessary for such jobs.

 

The throw bearing is in the bell housing, it actually rides on the clutch "fingers". When the clutch pedal is pressed a lever presses on the Throwout bearing which presses the clutch "finger", that disengages the clutch pressure plate. If you have an automotive stethoscope listen at the clutch bell housing while the pedal is depressed. A long screw driver presses against your ear and on the bell housing will work also.

 

Okay, I'll see if i can go from there.

Any idea how i should approach the other issues?

Eric

 

If youhave the Bentley Manual. A picture of the clutch fingers is on page 210-9 and the throwout bearing (Clutch Release Bearing) is on page 210-12

 

I saw that when i was looking up the clutch, if i recall correctly, the pictures were of internals, not very helpful for a novice trying to narrow down the source of the sound.

 

If the squealing is from the clutch housing when the clutch is depressed and engine running. Using the same troubleshooting technique with the stethoscope. To change the throw bearing requires the transmission removal to get access to that part..

 

What happens if/when the TOB gets much worse?

How big of a project is a clutch job/TOB replacement?

 

$64K question. If you baby the clutch. No riding the clutch on a incline or stop, it could last a while. But that does not account for all of the variables. The squeal can be painful to listen to. If the squeal sound starts to change I would consider making the repairs sooner than later. You don't have to do a whole clutch job, unless you want to, just pull the tranny and replace the bearing. (depending on your experience it could be a difficult job)

 

I never ever ride the clutch on a hill, and i always coast to a stop in neutral (bad habit, i know). I spend very little time on the pedal, actually, partially just for this reason.

I really wouldn't call it a squeal. It sounds somewhat like when you blow over a half full glass bottle, and only during the action of depressing and releasing the pedal, not while it is being held down. If i didn't know any better (and i don't), it sounds more like a creaky door hinge.

My experience is minimal, but i'd sure love to change that. Whether or not this is a good second project (after changing the oil pan gasket/crank seal/valve cover/etc) is the question. I work in a machine shop and can be very resourceful when necessary, but I've got no car experience (I design and build CNC machines).

If it weren't much more work to put in a new clutch while changing the bearing, i'd do that too. Why not? Parts are cheap, why not do it all while i've got it apart, unless there's significantly more work involved in replacing the plate(s) than the bearing?

If the TOB gives up, how much damage occurs?

I've got a week off for the holidays this year, I'm considering taking the car to work and doing everything I can on it.

 

If the "creaking" sound only occurs while pressing or depressing, not while being held steady then you can probably discount the TOB. The load to the TOB occurs when there is "any" pressure on the clutch pedal. Use the auto stethoscope and check the pedal hinges while working the pedal.

BTW if the TOD seizes up (I've never seen it happen) it would destroy clutch and possibly the tranny input shaft. A very bad day......

PS. the stethoscope is a great tool. I can help isolate troubles in bearings, engine valve train, "creaking hinges", panels rattling..etc

 

Thanks.
I've added an auto stethoscope to my list of stuff to buy before i embark on the dismantle-the-mini project.

I looked all over the car for an hour yesterday, under, over, inside, etc, and cannot find the source of the squeak or ticking noises. I'd assumed the problem was coming from the pedal hinge, but it really seems to be coming from under the hood, specifically, under or around the battery box, but i just can't be certain yet. Noise travels so well along well connected parts that it's very hard to isolate when things are in such a small area.

If you're confident that it isn't a critical problem, i'll put off my search and look more carefully when i've got the engine in service mode -- i'll have an easier time looking around in there then...

thanks!

 

Creaking noise sounds like the clutch master cylinder. Actual MINI replacment available at Pelican for $48.00

 

Can you tell me how to verify? My bentley doesn't even tell me where the clutch master is. Important to fix quickly, or not a big deal?

thanks!

 

It looks pretty easy. The master cylinder is up under the dash to the right of the clutch peddle. Put some towels down and protect your eyes as some fluid will run out.

Mine has made and odd creaking noise for two years. It finally started to drip a small amount of fluid. Now its time to replace. The replacement parts prices were all over the board. Pelican was the lowest for an original MINI.

One last note, you'll have to bleed the air out of the clutch after you replace the master cylinder. It feeds from the same reservoir as the brake system


I'll know on Friday when I do the work if I have to remove the drivers seat to make access easier. If you pull the drivers seat disconnect the car battery and then unplug airbag harness under the seat.

 

Just get it replaced. Take the $$$ hit and move on. You'll sleep better.

Better that than getting stuck god knows where and stuck in traffic. Parts always let go at the "perfect" time.

 

Correction, the clutch master cylinder is on the left when you're sitting in the drivers seat. Then it moves over to your right when you're laying on your back looking up under the dash. Funny how that happens.

"Throw enough new parts at any car problem and sooner or later the problem might go away"

 

When you're doing the work, can you take some pics and post notes?

 

Pardon the duplication. My last post seamed to have disappeared. Here is the brief version. Look up under your dash, you'll see there's nothing to photograph. There are 2 small mounting bolts and 2 lines feeding the clutch master cylinder. When you're under there see if you can see or feel any fluid. A squeaky cylinder doesn't mean it will fail anytime soon. Mine squeaked for several years. When the leaking started then I knew it was time.


If you're a novice DYI'er buy yourself a good Bentley manual. Worth every dime. The Haynes manual will get you through a lot of the projects in a pinch.


Orrrrrrr you could just go to the dealer and get it done right for about $300.00.

 

Check the supercharger. I was experiencing similar problems and somehow was diagnosed as a loose bolt on the intake manifold. It has been fixed while I'm away, so I do not know if it is solved.

 

I've got the bentley manual, i didn't see anything useful about the clutch master/slave cylinders in it.

I don't have a supercharger in my car.