My problem turned out to be a crack in the coolant pipe that runs between the water pump and the thermostat, right at the water pump. If you (or someone else) goes in there, replace both the pump and the pipe. The newer pump is metal, not PLASTIC! Exit...stage left.

 

Well since this thread is bumped, might as well bump it as well.

I was replacing my spark plugs today (my R50 doesn't seem to like Iridiums) and noticed my coolant was lower than I last remember it being. The reservoir had been at the same level for about as long as I've owned it (right at the MIN line), but now it's bordering on dry.

Been meaning to flush it for a while anyway because I don't know when it was last flushed, and it was already seeming like it might be a little on the low side... But...

I don't see any stains on my garage floor indicating a leak, and I don't know what to make of that. In fact I still have a piece of cardboard underneath the car from the transmission leak that I got fixed months ago, and it's as clean as ever.

Where could my coolant have gone? I haven't used my R50 to commute to work for more than a month now, so any leaks should be evident on my garage floor. Not sure how to explain that unless the coolant was lost a long time ago and I just never noticed. But the reservoir isn't empty, so I would think it'd still be noticeably leaking?

 

I have a 2009 Mini S Hatchback. Since Feb 2018, I have replaced the Thermostat Housing (Feb), End of August was the Water Pump. Now, 3 weeks later, there is another coolant leak. It looks as if its seeping thru the metal below the engine. The leak is on the passenger side front. I am hoping that this can be removed and fixed. If its a part that cant be removed or apart of the engine block, I will have to get a new engine. Has anyone seen/heard of this before? There is a lot of coolant on the ground everyday. Even if not being driven. (I drive the 5 mins to and from work.) having mechanic friends look at it, to help figure out whats going on. Also wondering if it could be a gasket. I did notice a sweet smell, and not sure if it makes a difference, but my windshield has been fogging up.

 

Passenger side leak is likely water pump related. Windshield fogging could be caused by leaking heater core, particularly if you detect that sweet coolant smell coming from the heater outlets.

 

Since it's only 3 weeks after the WP job, I wonder if something didn't get tightened down. One fairly easy possibility is that there is a radiator hose that runs along the front between the radiator and the engine. I forget where it connects, but maybe it is leaky.

EDIT: WHY AREN'T MY PHOTOS SHOWING? I SEE THEM WHEN I GO BACK IN TO EDIT, BUT NOT IN THE POST.


Top view

Radiator removed

Radiator removed
Top view

 

Yep. That's a good possibility. Mine hung down once and got pulled completely off.

 

What would folks say this is? The beginning of a failure of my coolant reserve tank? Level seems to be in range. Have driven the car nearly 4,000 miles since I bought it Aug 16th . . . Note the slight green drip of fluid, and the 'crust' along the seam of the reservoir tank.

 

Looks like the tank seal. It's one of those fab known issues, if you look around the seam it's likely you'll see one spot that looks like its warped and coolant spill is a bit thicker. Luckily its a cheap fix. I recommend you replace the cap when you do the tank. I went through 2 of them within a few years before deciding to upgrade. Personally, I chose the black Canton. drawback- filling is a bit more challenging since you can't see through an tank. But it's a reputable part, frees up a lot of space and has a neat power steering reservoir that fits with it.

 

@aprilkatz

Fog up is a classic heater core symptom. Check the passenger side floor carpet on both the center side and bottom. If they're damp it's def the heater core.

That amount on the ground tho makes me think back to the pump. When the pump was replaced, did the flange and o-ring get checked? It's not weird to be leaking between the block and flange or pump and flange. I've heard of people who didn't change out all of them, line up/ silicon seal properly. Pump hose and clamps there can also be a source of leak.

 

Update . . . and solicitation of advise. . . ordered/received a new reservoir tank -- the leak is very slow so haven't been in a hurry. But, since I had a similar issue with my Boxster, at several times the cost, and the replacement failed within a couple of years, I'm thinking that I will apply JB 'plastic weld' epoxy to the seam. Also thinking I'll use screw clamps rather than the squeeze clamps . . . any thoughts or wisdom to share? This is an OEM replacement from Pelican.



tank and epoxy.

 

JB on that makes me nervous, for temp and pressure. I tend to be a bit paranoid tho. Don't know your budget/ how fast you need it/ what else is under the bonnet ... I'd consider that a temp fix. If you aren't all stock or planning on it, might want to consider just an upgrade rather than oem

 

Check on that. The intent is not a temp fix, but a shadetree engineering enhancement for known deficit in oem. I will hold off a bit to see if others weigh in. Stock R53. The fix is in hand and I'll just go with that for now if JB does not add strength. I'm not so concerned about 'the look' being all stock if it adds durability, and I would have thought that 4,400 PSI would be way above what that system would generate? No statements about temp rating or type of plastic that it might not be compatible with . . . so those would be my primary concerns at this point. I've never used JB on anything, so there's that . . . Guess I'll do a general search on the web to see what comes up on the topic. Anybody used this substance for a similar purpose?

 

lol Yes, that's plenty above. Stock your cap should be sitting between 12-18psi. Look on the tank itself, you may see a plastic identification code. It'll be a set of letters (ex PVC) or a recycling styled symbol with a # in it. That'll give you compatability w/ the product. Off hand my guess would be a polypropylene

 

Tracked down JBWeld PlasticWeld FAQ. They say it's good to 500 degrees, but that it does not adhere well to:

• Polypropylene plastic
• Polyethylene plastic

I submitted a support ticket with Pelican asking what type of plastic this unit is made of . . . If I don't hear back by Saturday, I'll probably just install it as is, and do the repair on the one I'm replacing, and keep it for a backup.

 

Awesome good to know! Love to hear how if turns out. In a different idea if it doesn't , you might look into pool/spa stuff. I know the silicone grease is the same and perfect on coolant gasket joints so there might be something there that works.