The Yo-Yo Chronicles
to get the SW upgrade or not get the SW upgrade???
I'm coming up on my 10K mile service and I can't decide whether to get the upgrade to V38 or not. I had a terrible yoyo until I applied the cable tie fix, now I have NO yoyo, and better throttle response, and minor (if any) gas mileage reduction (of course I'll snip the ties before it gets to the dealer).I've read in a couple of places that V38 "fixed 99% of the yoyo" or "almost fixed the yoyo".... The cable tie fixes it 100%.
So I'm wondering, since I'm pretty happy with the cable tie fix. Why should I get the new SW? Is there a compelling reason to get V38, or not to get it?
As a corollary what if I get V38 and then re-apply the cable tie fix anyway?
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
And to MINIUSA please don't input your "lawyer post" about "modifications to the vehicle void the warranty"....
--->Blue Brummie - you missed something alright - go look on Page 6 of this thread
--->tme, and anyone considering V38 due to crappy drivability: DO IT. If your car sucks, V38 will help it suck less.
*Same fuel economy,
*better cruise control,
*better traction control,
*better drivability,
*reduced Yo-Yo,
*better overall.
--->tme, and anyone considering V38 due to crappy drivability: DO IT. If your car sucks, V38 will help it suck less.
*Same fuel economy,
*better cruise control,
*better traction control,
*better drivability,
*reduced Yo-Yo,
*better overall.
Woo hoo, today for the first time in weeks, my car started on the 1st try.
What did I do? I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds until the engine finally reluctantly started...... This is NOT good....
BTW has anyone on this board in the Northeast run anything lower than 93 Octane gas? The reason I am asking is that some BMWs are also experiencing this problem, and some dealers are suggesting 89 Octane as the temporary fix.
What did I do? I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds until the engine finally reluctantly started...... This is NOT good....
BTW has anyone on this board in the Northeast run anything lower than 93 Octane gas? The reason I am asking is that some BMWs are also experiencing this problem, and some dealers are suggesting 89 Octane as the temporary fix.
Originally Posted by KatanaPilot
Woo hoo, today for the first time in weeks, my car started on the 1st try.
What did I do? I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds until the engine finally reluctantly started...... This is NOT good....
BTW has anyone on this board in the Northeast run anything lower than 93 Octane gas? The reason I am asking is that some BMWs are also experiencing this problem, and some dealers are suggesting 89 Octane as the temporary fix.
What did I do? I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds until the engine finally reluctantly started...... This is NOT good....
BTW has anyone on this board in the Northeast run anything lower than 93 Octane gas? The reason I am asking is that some BMWs are also experiencing this problem, and some dealers are suggesting 89 Octane as the temporary fix.
Before switching to lower octane fuels, I highly recommend to at least try out a tankful of Citgo 93 Octane gasoline. It has made a TREMENDOUS difference in my '04 MCS and I don't doubt it will also benefit your cars as well.
Well, after a year of Yo-Yo, and having the stumble fixed just the other week, I finally took a morning to read through this loooooooong thread.
I rushed out and performed Ryephile's cable-tie mod on my MCS, and took it for a spin.
Wooooooo Hoooooooo! is an understatement
Now I remember what my 02 MCS felt like - smooth and yo-yo free.
This is the first time my 03 has driven this way, and I'm finally a happy owner.
Truly hope that MINI provide an approved fix for the issue soon, but until then, I guess I'll burn that extra gas in return for no yo-yo.
Thanks Ryephile and everyone, this is one cool thread, and it's amazing what people can do for themselves when they work together!
Chris.
PS With the K&N Typhoon fitted, I could do the cable-tie mod without removing anything from the induction system. It took just two minutes, and couldn't be easier to undo/redo in the future.
I rushed out and performed Ryephile's cable-tie mod on my MCS, and took it for a spin.
Wooooooo Hoooooooo! is an understatement
Now I remember what my 02 MCS felt like - smooth and yo-yo free.
This is the first time my 03 has driven this way, and I'm finally a happy owner.
Truly hope that MINI provide an approved fix for the issue soon, but until then, I guess I'll burn that extra gas in return for no yo-yo.
Thanks Ryephile and everyone, this is one cool thread, and it's amazing what people can do for themselves when they work together!
Chris.
PS With the K&N Typhoon fitted, I could do the cable-tie mod without removing anything from the induction system. It took just two minutes, and couldn't be easier to undo/redo in the future.
Last edited by Cooperb!; Jul 21, 2004 at 01:50 PM.
Originally Posted by Cooperb!
PS With the K&N Typhoon fitted, I could do the cable-tie mod without removing anything from the induction system. It took just two minutes, and couldn't be easier to undo/redo in the future.
I purchased a used '03 with 17k miles on it a week and a half ago....it was a victim of the yoyo as well. Drove it till yesterday that way. Last night I removed the servo linkage and tied the bypass valve closed.
Driving to work this morning, no yoyo! It does seem to over-shoot the amount of throttle I give it, then back off, but that's not as bad as the yoyo.
BTW, I also did mine without removing any of the intake (stock). Tight squeeze, but did it in about 5 minutes with my girlfriend holding the flashlight. (didn't feel like pulling the truck, tractor, or bus out of the shop)
...david
It's been a while since there've been any updates here - I suppose that means this thread may be winding down.
I've been hearing/reading that some dealership service managers have been told by their regional managers that CD38 contains NO upgrades for the MINI
Nothing could be further from the truth! I spent a good amount of time with the SM of Classic MINI discussing this today. Somehow their lines got crossed - hopefully I untangled them a bit.
I now have about 5,500 miles on V38; 3,700 of those being with the UNIchip. I still get some of that part throttle hesitation, but certainly no Yo-Yo. Keep in mind I am stillrunning my Ryephix #2 (the stiffer bypass valve return spring). The 'phix #2 is still a key player in the excellent drivability of my MINI. Everytime I drive another MCS, I can always feel that crappy stock bypass valve oscillating, grrr.
I wonder how the '05's will fare.
I've been hearing/reading that some dealership service managers have been told by their regional managers that CD38 contains NO upgrades for the MINI
Nothing could be further from the truth! I spent a good amount of time with the SM of Classic MINI discussing this today. Somehow their lines got crossed - hopefully I untangled them a bit.
I now have about 5,500 miles on V38; 3,700 of those being with the UNIchip. I still get some of that part throttle hesitation, but certainly no Yo-Yo. Keep in mind I am stillrunning my Ryephix #2 (the stiffer bypass valve return spring). The 'phix #2 is still a key player in the excellent drivability of my MINI. Everytime I drive another MCS, I can always feel that crappy stock bypass valve oscillating, grrr.
I wonder how the '05's will fare.
Could you summarize the fixes you have done?
The only thing I have done is to have the CD38 upgrade. For me it has helped tremendously but still there is a drivability problem which I find unacceptable for a modern car. Because the goods out weigh the bad I am keeping the car but I want to make the car more drivable.
Like I said I have the CD38 mod for the last 2.5K miles or so.
What other simple modifications do you think will further enhance the Min’s drivability?
I am considering an ECU upgrade but leaning towards keeping the car stock otherwise, the pix#2 sounds interesting and was wondering would that help my stock car?
ron
The only thing I have done is to have the CD38 upgrade. For me it has helped tremendously but still there is a drivability problem which I find unacceptable for a modern car. Because the goods out weigh the bad I am keeping the car but I want to make the car more drivable.
Like I said I have the CD38 mod for the last 2.5K miles or so.
What other simple modifications do you think will further enhance the Min’s drivability?
I am considering an ECU upgrade but leaning towards keeping the car stock otherwise, the pix#2 sounds interesting and was wondering would that help my stock car?
ron
a quality aftermarket ECU like the UNIchip will improve the car on just about every point: drivability, power and torque, and fuel economy (assuming a stable right foot). That said, it's pricey - though can be easily removed for the rare dealership appointment.
The Ryephix #2 is A) tough to build, and B) hurts fuel economy by about 9%. If you're serious about wanting one, I can build you one, or guide you through it. You may be better off doing the zip-tie, as it's much cheaper and easier to impliment, though hurts fuel economy even more. See Page 6 of this thread for the How-To! You can always clip it off - no harm no foul.
The Ryephix #2 is A) tough to build, and B) hurts fuel economy by about 9%. If you're serious about wanting one, I can build you one, or guide you through it. You may be better off doing the zip-tie, as it's much cheaper and easier to impliment, though hurts fuel economy even more. See Page 6 of this thread for the How-To! You can always clip it off - no harm no foul.
I still get some of that part throttle hesitation, but certainly no Yo-Yo.
Ryephile, I had CD38 installed around 3 wks. ago and am also getting some "part throttle" hesitation. I don't think they'll ever get rid of it...
I just installed a Rogue/Madness CAI system and it seemed to reduce the amount of hesitation at mid-throttle. This I can live with.:smile:
Bill
Ryephile, I had CD38 installed around 3 wks. ago and am also getting some "part throttle" hesitation. I don't think they'll ever get rid of it...
I just installed a Rogue/Madness CAI system and it seemed to reduce the amount of hesitation at mid-throttle. This I can live with.:smile:
Bill
Ryephile;
I didn’t realize your mods would reduce gas mileage, I’m going to hold off on them. One of the reasons I got the Mini was because it offered decent performance with high gas mileage.
You mentioned the UNIchip, what did it cost for that device?
The ECU I was considering was the PowerChip which costs about $700.00, a little steep in my book, and now Dinan is coming out with one for half the price so I’m leaning towards there ECU,
ron
I didn’t realize your mods would reduce gas mileage, I’m going to hold off on them. One of the reasons I got the Mini was because it offered decent performance with high gas mileage.
You mentioned the UNIchip, what did it cost for that device?
The ECU I was considering was the PowerChip which costs about $700.00, a little steep in my book, and now Dinan is coming out with one for half the price so I’m leaning towards there ECU,
ron
The Unichip ECU is $735 through Webb Motorsports. Yeah, it's a little steep, but you do get much smoother response, and it will help with the Yo-Yo.
The additional benefit is a bit more Hp/Torque. I've had mine for about 2 weeks, and I love the way my MINI drives now. The fact that the torque comes on earlier in the powerband, actually should improve MPG slightly as you don't have to push the pedal down as hard to get the same accelaration. I have noted a slight reduction in MPG, but this is only because I've been hammering the throttle and running up to 6-7K RPM's more often than I usually would. I have a long-ish drive this weekend, and I'll stick to my normal driving habits to see how the car does.
If you can swing the $$, this is an upgrade I'd recommend.
BB
The additional benefit is a bit more Hp/Torque. I've had mine for about 2 weeks, and I love the way my MINI drives now. The fact that the torque comes on earlier in the powerband, actually should improve MPG slightly as you don't have to push the pedal down as hard to get the same accelaration. I have noted a slight reduction in MPG, but this is only because I've been hammering the throttle and running up to 6-7K RPM's more often than I usually would. I have a long-ish drive this weekend, and I'll stick to my normal driving habits to see how the car does.
If you can swing the $$, this is an upgrade I'd recommend.
BB
Originally Posted by rajron
Ryephile;
I didn’t realize your mods would reduce gas mileage, I’m going to hold off on them. One of the reasons I got the Mini was because it offered decent performance with high gas mileage.
ron
I didn’t realize your mods would reduce gas mileage, I’m going to hold off on them. One of the reasons I got the Mini was because it offered decent performance with high gas mileage.
ron
Nice long run (260+ miles), lots of 90+ mph
On the way up, I was averaging 32 mpg at an average 72 MPH over 130 miles - No AC as it was still cool in the morning (74)
(If you ever drive through LA - you'll know how fast I was going on the clear sections to average 74 for the whole trip!)
On the way back in the afternoon I had to use AC, as the outside temp was up to 94.
And I hit the LA traffic on the 91 going East to the 15, so did the nose to tail crawl for 45 mins
Still managed 29 MPG averaged over the whole day, average speed dropped to just 48 MPH :smile:
Now, considering I had the pedal to the metal when ever traffic allowed, and the car was just flying with the boosted side-effect of the mod, I am more than happy with both MPG and performance. :smile:
I have permangrin again, and that smug feeling that you only get when you've left the SUV/Truck crowd behind in traffic, as you nimbly zip through the slow coaches
Chris.
Originally Posted by Ryephile
Everytime I drive another MCS, I can always feel that crappy stock bypass valve oscillating, grrr.
The step response, the response to an instantaneous change of controlling vacuum, of the valve with this mod is about 200 msec but this number is not an indication of the effective delay - it is a metric with which to compare modification effects. The actual throttle movement and resulting change in upstream manifold pressure (which controls the BPV position) is not instantaneous and any induced delay is going to be smaller than the step response number.
Additionally, it hasn't affected my mileage. One thing I don't know is whether it affects the buck that occurs when the throttle is quickly closed from a condition of boost to one of partial vacuum, say 10". This might occur when accelerating in 2nd to 4k, then quickly reducing throttle input slightly. I suspect that the delay in valve response coupled with throttle overshoot would be most noticeable under this condion. I can induce this but I don't know whether I had it before the mod - it was only after reading about the buck in the v38 thread that I bothered to notice. (Isn't that the way it is?)
Someone else with a bad yoyo please try this. One more person here is going to try it soon. He made a restriction by drilling a hole axially down a 1/4" length of 3/16" dia aluminum rod. He intends to press the restriction into the stock rubber hose and reinstall. I'll post his results after he installs.
Bradley99, I wish you had been here in January, cause I suggested the restriction thing and was shot down as a bad idea back then. See post #94 and 96. I never did try it and still suffer from YoYo, so I am gald it seems to have worked for you.
Something that I've noticed
It seems that everyone that upgrades to V38 has to reset their adaptive logic before the car will operate smoothly and normally. Once you reset the ECU via the OBDII interface in the odometer (see how-to on MINI2, test 19 sub-test 21), the car will run fine (assuming a proper break-in cycle).
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
Originally Posted by Ryephile
It seems that everyone that upgrades to V38 has to reset their adaptive logic before the car will operate smoothly and normally. Once you reset the ECU via the OBDII interface in the odometer (see how-to on MINI2, test 19 sub-test 21), the car will run fine (assuming a proper break-in cycle).
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
Is this the procedure you are referring to?
http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?s...l&titlesonly=0
Thanks
Steve
Ryan: Guess I'm stupid, are you saying that, after dealer installs V38, I should disconnect my battery for a few minutes then reconnect, in order to get V38 to help solve Yo Yo
.
.
Originally Posted by Ryephile
It seems that everyone that upgrades to V38 has to reset their adaptive logic before the car will operate smoothly and normally. Once you reset the ECU via the OBDII interface in the odometer (see how-to on MINI2, test 19 sub-test 21), the car will run fine (assuming a proper break-in cycle).
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
I'll have to report this quirk to MINIUSA.
A question and comment
Ok, so I finally broke down and took my 06/03 build MCS in for some service
(squeaky D/S window, glove box that falls open, all got fixed btw
) and I also asked that the software be updated to deal w/ the 1st gear stumble. OH MY what a diffference! I hardly recognized my own car!
The stumble, so it seems, at least for now, is vanquished!
The paperwork says nothing about v38 specifically, it only says:
"Reprogram D M E and code motronic units" Am I to assume that v38 was part of this?
Also, the loss of the stumble seems to be at the expense of some of the low end torque.
Has anybody else had this experience?
I am quite happy with the lack of stumble, but I would like the torque back.
Any suggestions? And no, I have not done the ECU reset.
btw, the car is completely stock, at least for now
Oh, one last thing, all of this work was done at Century West BMW, and they were terrific!
I wouldn't buy a MINI from Universal MINI if I were being threatened with amputation, but the service from C-W BMW gets a thumbs up.
Off to Topanga Canyon for a good road test!
-K-
(squeaky D/S window, glove box that falls open, all got fixed btw
) and I also asked that the software be updated to deal w/ the 1st gear stumble. OH MY what a diffference! I hardly recognized my own car!The stumble, so it seems, at least for now, is vanquished!

The paperwork says nothing about v38 specifically, it only says:
"Reprogram D M E and code motronic units" Am I to assume that v38 was part of this?
Also, the loss of the stumble seems to be at the expense of some of the low end torque.
Has anybody else had this experience? I am quite happy with the lack of stumble, but I would like the torque back.
Any suggestions? And no, I have not done the ECU reset.
btw, the car is completely stock, at least for now

Oh, one last thing, all of this work was done at Century West BMW, and they were terrific!
I wouldn't buy a MINI from Universal MINI if I were being threatened with amputation, but the service from C-W BMW gets a thumbs up.
Off to Topanga Canyon for a good road test!
-K-




