Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Rear Hatch Hinge Broke......

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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #26  
rallymaniac's Avatar
rallymaniac
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From: Elgin, IL
for all of you that changed it, and this may be a dumb question... is it done with the hatch closed or open?
If with open, how do you do it? I think I'm having a hinge issue as my hatch is misaligned and doesn't close properly. There is virtually no gap on left side of the hatch between the body and a bit one on the other side.
Do you have to take the dampers out and if yes, how?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #27  
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gknorr
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Originally Posted by rallymaniac
for all of you that changed it, and this may be a dumb question... is it done with the hatch closed or open?
If with open, how do you do it? I think I'm having a hinge issue as my hatch is misaligned and doesn't close properly. There is virtually no gap on left side of the hatch between the body and a bit one on the other side.
Do you have to take the dampers out and if yes, how?
Do it with the hatch open for sure. I removed the struts (they will just pop out) and had a friend hold the hatch open while I removed the old hinges and put the new ones in. You might be working on the hinges for a while so be nice to the person holding the hatch.

Your hatch issue sounds similar to what was happening with mine. With the hatch open, do you notice the part that attaches to the body of the car rocking with the hatch when you move the hatch up and down? I had the same alignment issues. Fix it soon - you don't want the hatch to be rubbing away the body paint - rust will certainly follow.

Your hinges are probably almost completely seized (mine were), but you don't notice it because of the torque the hatch gives you while opening and closing.

One thing I should add about this repair is I noticed that the torx bolt on the hatch started to rust a little because I wore the paint off it when loosening and tightening it. After you get the new hinges in and the hatch aligned, I recommended painting those torx screws with some touch-up paint to keep them from rusting.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #28  
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rallymaniac
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From: Elgin, IL
awesome, thanks. Yes, it's the exact the same symptom, it rocks a bit on the right side.
I'll try to fix it this or next week.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #29  
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Funny - mine was the right side too. Good luck with the fix.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 01:50 AM
  #30  
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MadisonKobalt
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From: Madison Wisconsin
FYI here is the old thread on the boot hinge rust issue. Your not alone on this one.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 05:15 AM
  #31  
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bwalczak
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Originally Posted by MINIdave
It happens when people don't lube them periodically - they rust and sieze and since you have so much leverage with the hatch, it just tears them up. If you do a search, you will find several threads on this and a How-to to replace them.
Our right hinge broker. It rusts inside the pin housing so you do not realize it is rusting. In addition it is not in a area that a owner would normally inspect. This is a design flaw. We take it to Mini each year for servicing, they should be lubing it. I think Mini should do a recall, and tell dealer to lube.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 09:53 PM
  #32  
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ladyactor2
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My 2006 Mini Cooper hatchback latch rusted off! Just as I was loading groceries in the parking lot of the grocery store. An angel of a man gave me his bungee cord to keep the door closed till I could get home.
I cannot do this repair...any idea if it is a warranty issue or the cost to repair it?
Thanks from a frustrated owner!
You are correct ....loving a Mini ...but hating the cost to maintain it!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #33  
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gknorr
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You'll need to take it to a body shop. I was quoted at around $200 for labor only, but ended up doing it myself. Looks like the hinge will be about $25, although after March of 2006, the hinge is different and about $50. You might as well have them replace both while they have it apart. And remember to spray them with some lubricant once or twice a year after that!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 07:25 AM
  #34  
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Yep 3/2006 was the split year in the hinge.

R50 R53 Hardtops -3/2006 41627037439

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/41627037439/





R50 R53 Hardtops 3/2006+ 41627181089

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/41627181089/


Here are the nuts and bolts. One each per hinge.



HEX NUT WITH PLATE #35

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07147139131/ES2674395/



&

Torx Bolt - Priced Each #3

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07131166764/ES2136365/



#2 is the actual hinge . I would spray with penetrating grease at least yearly, like door hinges and the hood latch and locks as prevention.



Thanks
 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Feb 22, 2018 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #35  
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Anyone ever tried using the post 3/2006 hinges on a pre 3/2006 MINI?

I'm guessing it's an improved design and I'd be kind of surprised if it wouldn't work.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #36  
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ashchuckton
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From: Nunavut
I haven't tried using the newer design hinges, but they sure look like they's work. Maybe the good folks at ECSTuning could hold one of each in his hand & let us know for sure. I'm 90% sure they'd work.

As long as one lubes the hinges it won't be an issue, but like many things they get overlooked.
 
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