Chitow, that is correct. The plastic mesh cylinder (PMC) is the almost the same length as the oil filter. It may be a few millimeters shorter. So once the oil filter has been put in place (actually more like forced in place because the diameter of the PMC is the same as the diameter of the donut hole in the oil filter) the PMC just shy of sticking out on the other side.

I am getting concerned as nobody on this site seems to know anything about this type of oil filter arrangement. I can think of a couple of explanations for this:

1. It is a MY2004 Change and not enough people have done their own oil changes to notice this.
2. My car is riding on an early MY02 engine for some reason.
3. I need to cut back on the grass.

It is dark now, I will look at the build date in the morning but I highly doubt that the dealer screwed me and sold me a 2002 model.

 

It sounds like part of the inside of the old filter stayed in the housing?? Mesh makes me think something must flow through it and probably oil. Hmm??

 

Don't worry about the engine it should be fine. I have worked in the fast lube industry for years and have seen several engines run for 20-45 minutes without a drop of oil in them. Nothing ever happend to those engines and I still see a couple of them in my shop from time to time.

I had a 4Runner once that lost its oil filter about 1/4 mile from the shop and drove all the way back. Penzoil/Fram gave us a bad set of those filters and once the oil pressure reached a certain point the filter was actually blown off the filter stud. Turned out the threads had been machined a little too large but they were just close enough to the right size that the filter did not feel right going on.

Now that motor did lock up but once I poured some fresh oil into it there was a very loud clunk and the motor turned freely again. I don't know the condition of that car now but the guy did drive it for another year or so before trading it in on a Tundra.

The Castrol Syntec in the MINI is much tougher, still not as tough as a true synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil, then the conventional oils that these other guys were using so even with no oil pressure at all your engine would be in better shape.

 

Vano: all the threads on oil lchanges make it look and sound so easy, but, unfortunately, I think they mostly addressed the later models (post late-2002).
Your experience with the oil change really makes me feel nervous because I have a 5/2002 build MC and my first oil change was at the dealer's and I am about to change it myself next month, after 17,500 miles. So, most probably I have the spring loaded mechanism that you described.

You made a great observation about the O-ring not being at the right perch. Thanks for that. I could easily have made the same mistake and create a mess in my garage or driveway.

For those reading this thread and who post How-Tos, I hope they will be a little more detailed in their step-by-step instructions, with a caveat that different build-year cars or different models may have different maintenance set-ups.

I like your CAD illustration. I do CAD work and have a digital camera, so maybe next month I'll be able to post a different version of How-To for the oil change, incorporating CAD details and photos. But feel free to post yours too. The more information exchange the better.

 

Hey Vano,

Don't feel too bad. I think your motor will be fine. I did something very, very stupid with my MCS just yesterday. I was checking the oil and it was just a little low, so I added 1/2 a quart.

But, I failed to put the damn oil filler cap on. Drove the car around, even smelled the oil, but like a *******, I just assumed it was the old beat-up, smoking IROC in front of me.

After about 20 miles of driving, I wised up and checked. NO FILLER CAP! CRAP! I limped it home, utterly depressed.

Today on Christmas Eve, I called the MINI dealership after a failed attempt at a recon mission to find the little bugger. Nope, they didn't have an extra one in parts. Called all the parts stores. Still no luck. Called Flow MINI back. Dan, the MINI man, suggests that I try the Chrysler Dealer and ask for a 2004 Neon filler cap. (Engine shares most of the parts with the Euro Neons and PT's engine) BINGO! The cap snugged right on, and I'm back in business.

So I really don't think you screwed it up. I was lucky too. If I had been doing some serious shifting/highway driving, I think I would have sprayed oil everywhere, not to mention not having enough oil pressure in the crank case to keep all the parts slick and cool. But not even once did the oil light come on. Funny thing is, I really thought that I had depleted most of the oil. I have checked it several times after letting it sit and the dipstick still reads "full."

Now this "Dipstick" is content on just having the oil pressure back, the oil smell gone and just a big feeling of relief. Know how you feel, Vano. Thanks to some creative engineering from Flow MINI and Chrysler for making a similar filler cap for their Neon.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, it's time to be Santa. To all and all a Good Night!

 

What a story Jake. I never thought I would say this but props to the Neon :smile:

Isn't that sinking feeling the worst? When you realize something you did screwed up the MINI? You can imagine my emotions when i stopped the car and had to jump out of it because there was so much smoke in the cabin I couldn't breathe.

Still many unanswered questions.

 

>>Vano: all the threads on oil lchanges make it look and sound so easy, but, unfortunately, I think they mostly addressed the later models (post late-2002).
>>Your experience with the oil change really makes me feel nervous because I have a 5/2002 build MC and my first oil change was at the dealer's and I am about to change it myself next month, after 17,500 miles. So, most probably I have the spring loaded mechanism that you described.

I agree, the NAM How-To makes it look like childs play, until you realize the filter housing isn't the same (in my case).

>>
>>You made a great observation about the O-ring not being at the right perch. Thanks for that. I could easily have made the same mistake and create a mess in my garage or driveway.
>>
Yes, this is a pretty easy mistake to make if you are not paying close attention, which i wasn't because I was freaking out about the housing/filter differences.

>>I like your CAD illustration. I do CAD work and have a digital camera, so maybe next month I'll be able to post a different version of How-To for the oil change, incorporating CAD details and photos. But feel free to post yours too. The more information exchange the better.
Hehe, thanks, but no CAD here. I drew this up using Visio. Being an IT consultant requires solid Viso and Powerpoint skills :smile: That is core. Should have taken CAD back in engineering school though.

 

>>Vano: all the threads on oil lchanges make it look and sound so easy, but, unfortunately, I think they mostly addressed the later models (post late-2002).
>>Your experience with the oil change really makes me feel nervous because I have a 5/2002 build MC and my first oil change was at the dealer's and I am about to change it myself next month, after 17,500 miles. So, most probably I have the spring loaded mechanism that you described.

I agree, the NAM How-To makes it look like childs play, until you realize the filter housing isn't the same (in my case).

>>
>>You made a great observation about the O-ring not being at the right perch. Thanks for that. I could easily have made the same mistake and create a mess in my garage or driveway.
>>
Yes, this is a pretty easy mistake to make if you are not paying close attention, which i wasn't because I was freaking out about the housing/filter differences.

>>I like your CAD illustration. I do CAD work and have a digital camera, so maybe next month I'll be able to post a different version of How-To for the oil change, incorporating CAD details and photos. But feel free to post yours too. The more information exchange the better.
Hehe, thanks, but no CAD here. I drew this up using Visio. Being an IT consultant requires solid Viso and Powerpoint skills :smile: That is core. Should have taken CAD back in engineering school though.

Please take some pictures of your oil change, I am very interested to see what kind of assembly you find in the filter housing. Thanks.

 

I have a 2004 mcs, sept build and my canister looked like the" How to " pics. I don't have any idea why yours would be different. If you find out why , please let us all know. I changed mine at 2,500 and had no problems, lucky i guess!!! I did compare filters and they looked identical. Tim

 

I would like to point you to the RSpeed how to on the splash page of this site. You will notice the previously mentioned plastic mesh cylinder on the pictures. Specifically figures 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, and 7c.

Hope this clears up this muddy issue.

Cheers
JD

 

My $.02,
1. September 2002 build date MY 2003 MCS- No black mesh thingy ( this is the second oil change. Maybe BMW left it off during the first oil change?)
2. Standard 36 mm socket is tight but will fit. Sears for $6.99
3. I could not start the threads without damage with the filter cartrige in the spin-on housing, so, I stuck the cartrige on the engine block boss thingy first and then installed the spin-on housing. It worked A LOT easier by hand to catch the threads right.
4. Everything went OK. No runs, drips, or errors.
5. I am doing my own oil changes from now on. $80.00 at BMW/MINI... NO WAY!

 

Just got an 06 Mini S and I'm researching changing my own oil.
Regarding the mesh piece-- check out this you tube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djWm0gLqXAY

This may be what you all are talking about.

Hey-- just realized this thread is 5 years old. Anyway hope this helps...

 

when you refilled it to test for location of leak;how much did it take to fill it ?this is the question . but since the oil goes from filter to mains and rods and top end ,i gotta think a bit of starvation was inevitable .

 

I have a 2003 Mini and had several oil leaks, due to the current filter and canopy; I want to change it to "regular oil filters", even marine oil filter if fit; I called the dealer but there is nothing available for that. Is there any "off market" adapter, or anything I can use ?; it's very enervating driving around not knowing if the oil will leak, besides the oil stain on garage and driveway.
Thanks
Roza

 

Are you sure it's the filter? On a 2003 chances are that the oil pan, crank sensor seal, or harmonic balancer crank seal are leaking. On mine it was all three.

Rich

 

Sounds like you're pinching the O-ring. Make sure that you also lube the one on the filter housing, but also lube the housing where it goes on the engine block. Sometimes screwing either one "dry" could cause the O-ring to break or bind or bunch up and allowing the oil to seep out under pressure.

Also, are you using OEM O-rings? Anything else seems to have a tendency to leak due to smaller diameter specs or poorly made.

 

A company named 'Cobalt' used to make a spin on adapter, but I don't think they are available anymore. As stated above, if you oil the o-ring, you shouldn't have any leaks from the canister - there are definitely other sources for leaks though.

 

Maybe this article might help clarify the confusion with the early oil filters.

Ken

 

Has anyone experience smoke coming of their engine oil filler hole? I just bought a 2008 mini and everytime I open the filler cap i see white smoke coming out of it? is this norma? Car runs fine but that freaked me out. Took it to the dealership where i bought it and they said its normal to have smoke but I am not convinced. Please help.

 

did the dealer check your oil levels? Were you running it hard before this occured?

 

Thank you Vano!

after reading your post, i realized i made the EXACT same mistake! I put the o-ring back in the right place and problem solved immediately. no more leaking oil and no more white smoke under hood.

you're a life saver thank you!