Two problems in my engine bay. Help?
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Two problems in my engine bay. Help?
While I was poking around in the engine bay today I noticed a couple problems.
Can someone explain to me if this is bad, and what I need to do to fix it?
1. Crack in rubber strut area. See Picture:
2. Slight knocking noise at idle coming from this rubber and metal arm piece. If I hold the piece solid, the noise stops. See picture:
Can someone explain to me if this is bad, and what I need to do to fix it?
1. Crack in rubber strut area. See Picture:
2. Slight knocking noise at idle coming from this rubber and metal arm piece. If I hold the piece solid, the noise stops. See picture:
#2
#5
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Awesome. I am hoping to meet some local Mini enthusiasts here in Arizona. I recently moved from Canada and don't know anyone!
Would this strut mount be a proper replacement for my cracked one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-S...Q5fAccessories
Would this strut mount be a proper replacement for my cracked one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-S...Q5fAccessories
#6
Ack! It's happening again!
Crashton and I always used to argue. But now we seem to always agree.
If you drive your car as anything other than a daily commuter, get the IE fixed camber plates and get the car alligned. This will help in corners for sure. If your car is a basic commuter with lots of freeway miles, then get the stock parts.
As far as the knocking from the engine brace, if the extra motion from this can be cracks in the rubber. But there are other mounts as well, and they should all be looked at. There's one under the engine that goes from the sub-frame to the oil pan, there is the one near the one that is broken that is a known failure point, and there is one that supports the transmission side. It's often the case that as one of these goes, the rest have to work harder and they start wearing out faster.
And yes, the KYB part is the right thing. But before you buy that contact Classic Auto Campus and see what they charge for the stocker if you're going that way, as they offer 20% NAM discount. But also think about the IE fixed camber plate. It is more, but it's stronger and corrects a "design flaw" in the stock geometry. Check this link and this one for details. Here's a brief camber plate install I wrote for MC Squared.
Matt
If you drive your car as anything other than a daily commuter, get the IE fixed camber plates and get the car alligned. This will help in corners for sure. If your car is a basic commuter with lots of freeway miles, then get the stock parts.
As far as the knocking from the engine brace, if the extra motion from this can be cracks in the rubber. But there are other mounts as well, and they should all be looked at. There's one under the engine that goes from the sub-frame to the oil pan, there is the one near the one that is broken that is a known failure point, and there is one that supports the transmission side. It's often the case that as one of these goes, the rest have to work harder and they start wearing out faster.
And yes, the KYB part is the right thing. But before you buy that contact Classic Auto Campus and see what they charge for the stocker if you're going that way, as they offer 20% NAM discount. But also think about the IE fixed camber plate. It is more, but it's stronger and corrects a "design flaw" in the stock geometry. Check this link and this one for details. Here's a brief camber plate install I wrote for MC Squared.
Matt
#7
Oh no here we go again Doc.
I've read somewhere on this forum that The KYB strut mounts are of low quality. Like Doc says go oem or for a nice improvement in handling go with the IE fixed camber plates.
Call Classic MINI in Ohio if you want oem parts. They give a nice NAM discount.
Classic.... 888-459-3464
I've read somewhere on this forum that The KYB strut mounts are of low quality. Like Doc says go oem or for a nice improvement in handling go with the IE fixed camber plates.
Call Classic MINI in Ohio if you want oem parts. They give a nice NAM discount.
Classic.... 888-459-3464
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#9
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Damn you guys are a fountain of knowledge.
I think I am going to go with OEM for now. It is just a daily driver, but I am trying to make it into a "fun" daily driver hehe, and that includes making sure all maintenance is up to par.
Hugh, that is SWEET. I am going to join right away and come out and meet other enthusiasts
I think I am going to go with OEM for now. It is just a daily driver, but I am trying to make it into a "fun" daily driver hehe, and that includes making sure all maintenance is up to par.
Hugh, that is SWEET. I am going to join right away and come out and meet other enthusiasts
#10
Rich
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Are these what you are talking about?
http://www.waymotorworks.com/ireland...e-r50-r53.html
If so, then it is not a bad price.
Would it still be beneficial to use these, along with a strut tower bar? Or should I forget the tower bar?
http://www.waymotorworks.com/ireland...e-r50-r53.html
If so, then it is not a bad price.
Would it still be beneficial to use these, along with a strut tower bar? Or should I forget the tower bar?
#13
The plates are not hard to install but frankly you should check your lower control arm bushings to see if they are gone as well. For those you can get the PowerFlex bushings (and go for inner and outer balljoints as well. Way sells it all as a kit to make it easy) although that install is not simple.
Good luck,
Rich
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