Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

R53 Starter Motor replacement proceedure

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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #1  
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terrykay
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R53 Starter Motor replacement proceedure

Hey everyone,
I've never done a "thread" before so excuse the ignorance.
I have what I think is a frozen starter motor.
I ordered a lifetime warranty replacement motor from a parts store. I looked under the car and it looks like a real PITA to get this sucker outta there.
Anybody done it before and if so, what am I getting myself in to.
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Mike87
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I had to get back by the starter to fix a wiring issue. At the time, I thought....boy changing that starter would be a real PITA. I had to remove all the heat shields and some of the clips holding wiring, etc. It was a pain, but doable. I think that if you get the car off the ground and work both from the top and the bottom, you should have no issues. Just take your time. More than likely, the starter will come out from the bottom, not the top.

Good luck,
Mike
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Haynes says remove the heat shield and the exhaust manifold....
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:31 AM
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...not what I wanted to hear...

I was waiting to get the new starter to see how it is attached. I wonder how much a new exhaust manifold gasket will set me back and how long it will take to get it.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Removing the exhaust manifold is the easiest way, it's only a few 10mm bolts. I suggest getting new manifold bolts, as they rust. Other than that, it shouldn't take no longer than a couple hours to fix.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 07:10 AM
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Thanks for the info.

It turned out to be nothing more than a dead (really dead, shorted) battery.
Much easier to replace.
I did have to replace the power steering motor last week and that was a bit of a challenge without a lift. I also had to replace the two coolant pipes that traverse the rear of the engine just about the P.S. motor. The pipe was corroded and when I hit it with the motor it sprang/sprung a leak. I'm glad it failed while I had the P.S. motor out because I would have had to remove it to get to the plumbing. The spring clips on those coolant hoses are a pain. I devised a method of holding them open with needle nose vise grips until I got them positioned on the tubing. Once I figured that out, it wasn't too bad. The P.S. motor is a pretty snug fit with the lug sticking out of the bottom of the carriage. I used a pry bar and got it back in.
Fun, Fun Fun but it cost me about half of what the dealer would have charged. I got a rebuilt motor for less than 450
 
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