P0171, P1688 with limp mode are the more recent ones.

Through this whole ordeal It's been P0171, P1688 (always trigger limp mode) and P1237. I suspected the BPV tip-tied it shut (on boost), and that made it a perpetual P1237. Took the bypass valve off in anticipation of a DT one arriving tomorrow AM.

The valve closes all the way and the spring appears to be working just fine when I manually actuate it, and I can hear the air move in the vacuum line as I move it.

In the process of trouble shooting and researching I've also checked a few other things and found...
The map sensor in the intake manifold was soaked in oil, so that's been removed and cleaned.

While the top of the throttle body (intake side) was clean, the supercharger side of the throttle body and the super charger inlet tube is coated in a dirt/oil type wet sludge, a thick black mud. Also while it was not muddy, the bypass valve both sides are coated in oil, intercooler was coated in oil, puddle of oil sitting in the intake manifold and corrosion on the coil pack focused on Cylinder #4, and light hints of corrosion in many of the wires, cleaned that out, and sanded down the corrosion off the post, well when I got everything off I noticed cylinders 1-4 on the intake manifold looked ok, but cylinder #4 appears to have a lot of deposits. A/C works just fine while driving, make idle very rough and attempting to run A/C from a stop was triggering the P1688 in addition to going from 70mph highway cruising to 55mph highway cruising when entering construction zones.

Also, although I believe this is unrelated, the power steering is stuck in the ON position, so I've got to disconnect the battery every time I stop somewhere.

Here's some photos of where things are at....

It was black, now it's orange, if it just needs periodic cleaning then I'm all for adding it to my maintenance regimen.
IC to manifold horn...


Bypass valve -- Will not be going back on




Throttle Body....
I've got to go back and finish cleaning some of the smaller bits of dirt left behind here; these are the after, I'm trying to get the before pics off my phone still.




Intake manifold....



For the time being I' hesitant on using seafoam or similar to clean this because if there's a leak there I don't want to make it worse until I know what it's going to take to fix it.











SC intake tube, some of the dirt/oil mix that's there, I almost suspect there's a leak in it somewhere that might be throwing some of the codes. I can't figure how the dirt is getting there, and I'm really worried about what that's doing if it's reaching the SC



From everything I've read (including that which I've typed int he past) I'm assuming there's a few semi-related issues going on here, first would be the bypass valve and map sensor, which I suspect when fixed will clear up a bunch of the code issues, and at least be done with limp mode for a while (I hope).

Then I've clearly got something going on with cylinder #4, not sure if it's just a result of bad fires because of corrosion build up in the coil pack, or if there's going to be deeper issues there. Once the car get's running again I'm planning on getting some dilectric grease to protect all those terminals.

Because of the effect running the A/C has and the fact that the PS pump went following one of the limp mode incidents, I'm going to chalk that up to a potential power issue and while all connections are good, I'm suspecting that this is my way of being warned on a new belt needed, so that'll be 20min and some cheap insurance later this week as well. While limp mode conditions became more frequent, I have not experienced the other symptoms associated with crank pulley failure, and the car only has a 15% SC pulley and CAI, and is an 05. But then again, I haven't and am not sure if I do have a way to rule it out as a possibility.

I'm undecided if it's going to be advantageous or not to go through everything needed to remove the bumper radiator etc to get down to the SC intake tube; but I think I'll probably be crossing that road later this week, however if I'm taking the radiator off it's going to be at least a 200mi drive to get to a place where I can do all that work with fluids.

Long read but I want to hear some second opinions and making sure I'm headed in the right direction with things.

 

Ok new bypass valve is on, and the issues related to the valve are fixed.

For anyone searching in the future, you can move the broken BPV with one finger it takes your whole hand to have the strength to move the DT BPV.

The next step for me is going to be getting the insurance companies warranty on the power steering pump covered so their cheap replacement parts don't start a fire; then trouble shooting the cyl #4 situation.

 

First thing I would do is to run some Sea-Foam through the motor, by way of the PCV valve....it should clean out the oil/sludge, and clean up the sensors...
Heck, I might do it 2 times just to be sure!! I don't think it would make the leak worse.....if it is a gasket around a sensor, and you just add it through the PCV....adding it to the oil on the other-hand might be different...
Next, PM grayraven...when he did his SC (and the SC intake tube that had a hole worn through it from rubbing ), I think he found the gasket on one sensor in particular was letting lots of oil into the inter-cooler, etc...Our local MINI guy said he replaces quite a few....I can't think of the name, but I'll look at his old posts and see if i can remember...
Next....I'd seriously consider a new coil pack...I went through the same cleaning routine with the OEM one...even added some Di-electric grease to try to slow down the corrosion...but it kept coming back (and the corrosion had spread to the the wire side...and eventually the wire would no longer clip on securely since the bump on the terminal had gotten smaller from the polishing, so new wires might be a good idea)......so I just went with the MSD to get the brass terminals(about $85)....the OEM nickel plated steel ones are done once the plating is gone....it will just get worse and worse....if you are trying to save a few $, then I think Moss sells an OEM ish one for 34.95 (it appears to have brass terminals in the photo)...I don't know much about it, but it is cheap...#103-272 in my last catalog.
I'm kinda wondering if the #4 is just more gunky looking due to airflow+spark issues......I'd seriously consider cleaning the sensors up, and seeing if the codes go away...till the oil slick comes back anyway....
Good Luck!!