Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Ready for spark plug change

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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
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HawkMini
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Ready for spark plug change

Just turned over 100k in Jan. (2004 MCS) and have been putting off the recommended spark plug change (busy busy). Decided to pull one out the other day after an oil change and discovered it had not a small amount of oil on it. I have been reading through the posts talking about replacing the plug tube gaskets and I plan to do so along with a valve cover gasket since it leaks a bit as well (any idea if these come together as a kit? I have only seen the valve cover gasket listed so far). Does the intercooler need to be removed in order to remove the valve cover? Seems a bit tight in there.

Another thing I noticed when I pulled the #3 plug wire off the coil was ... rust. Both the plug wire contact and the post on the coil are rusted, must have gotten some moisture in there. Anybody know if the post on the coil is replaceable or do I have to do the whole thing? Is it recommended to also change the wires when doing the plugs? Seems a bit pricey (I am also not opting to do the O2 sensors at this time due to the cost at >$100 x2 and my MPG seems fine anyway).

Questions, comments, concerns?
 

Last edited by HawkMini; Jun 1, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #2  
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ZippyNH
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Be sure to use a torque wrench when you install your new plugs...
The #3 coil corrosion is a common problem...only real solution is to replace the coil (long term)...you can clean the corrosion off (short term), and the plug connector (don't forget this IF you keep the same wires)...but it will return since the coating on the post (nickle plated iron) has worn off, and it will return pretty fast...MSD coils have brass posts, as do the screaming deamon one.
At 100K I'd do the wires, plugs, and if you can the coil......
Removing the IC is VERY easy...don't fear it...it is a 5 Min job max....
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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quikmni
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From: Orcutt, CA
The only difficulty with removing the intercooler is getting the end seals/couplers back on when installing the intercooler. It can be a little bit of a pain getting them back on all the way around the horns. It is not hard just a little time consuming and a little frustrating.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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ZippyNH
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Best way to get the IC back on with the boots is to use the free space from the boots to your advantage..you can make the IC wiggle sideways about 3/4 of an inch if you pull it hard from one side...giving you adequate space to make sure the other side is installed. It does not work for alta/M7 boots, but it makes it quick. I do the passenger side first, put the boot on the IC horn, then you push the IC onto it...when the IC against the horn, you can wiggle the other-side on...I usually push the boot a bit onto the horn side, then align the IC while keeping it push to one side....the wiggle the drivers side boot on...tough to describe, easy to do!!
One tip...if you are going to take the IC off with 100,000 miles...get a new set of boots...the old ones are likely pretty stiff, and may crack, or be leaking.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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HawkMini
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Thanks for the advice, I'll look into the IC boots as well.
 
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