Potential headgasket problem - need help!
Potential headgasket problem - need help!
Hi All:
I just got back from a trip, and my son's MCS was acting strange. He was driving yesterday, and all of a sudden on a uphill the car dies. He got it restarted but noticed a loss of power, and a flat spot on acceleration so he drove it home (1 mile) and parked it. No overheating, as he was really close to home.
When I start the car up it sounds totally normal. On pushing the accelerator, the car RPm's rise, but there is definitely a flat spot and an abnormally loud "sucking air" noise. It has a CAI on it, but I definitelt do not remember it being that loud! In looking at the exhaust, there is water in the exhaust tips, and it definitely looks like coolant, as it has a greenish hue.
Is my head gasket blown at 90K? Any thoughts or diagnostic advice would be helpful.
Also, what should it cost to replace at a NON dealer shop?
I am in the Torrance area, and have used Johnnys Auto Clinic before - any other recommendations?
Thanks for the help.
Viraf
I just got back from a trip, and my son's MCS was acting strange. He was driving yesterday, and all of a sudden on a uphill the car dies. He got it restarted but noticed a loss of power, and a flat spot on acceleration so he drove it home (1 mile) and parked it. No overheating, as he was really close to home.
When I start the car up it sounds totally normal. On pushing the accelerator, the car RPm's rise, but there is definitely a flat spot and an abnormally loud "sucking air" noise. It has a CAI on it, but I definitelt do not remember it being that loud! In looking at the exhaust, there is water in the exhaust tips, and it definitely looks like coolant, as it has a greenish hue.
Is my head gasket blown at 90K? Any thoughts or diagnostic advice would be helpful.
Also, what should it cost to replace at a NON dealer shop?
I am in the Torrance area, and have used Johnnys Auto Clinic before - any other recommendations?
Thanks for the help.
Viraf
Last edited by virafp; May 22, 2010 at 09:53 PM.
Ok guys, here is an update:
Checked the coolant level and topped it off.
The liquid coming out the exhaust is not green.
There is no sign of coolant on the oil filler cap or dipstick.
Stumble from idele seems to be the only tell tale sign...after doing some searching, could this be a by pass valve issue.
Plasticknives, I have yet to check the intercooler boot. Don't have the equipment to do a compression test/leakdown...yet!
Thanks, and any other advice is appreciated.
Checked the coolant level and topped it off.
The liquid coming out the exhaust is not green.
There is no sign of coolant on the oil filler cap or dipstick.
Stumble from idele seems to be the only tell tale sign...after doing some searching, could this be a by pass valve issue.
Plasticknives, I have yet to check the intercooler boot. Don't have the equipment to do a compression test/leakdown...yet!
Thanks, and any other advice is appreciated.
Could be the BPV is stuck open. Not that common of an issue but you never know. This would cause lack of boost, or a 'flat spot' that you describe. Does it pull hard after this flat spot?
My guess is still a big boost leak. Pull off the intercooler cover and see if the boots slid off at all.
My guess is still a big boost leak. Pull off the intercooler cover and see if the boots slid off at all.
Thanks will do that, but I think your bypass valve theory may be correct.
I checked all the plugs, no sign of anything wrong. Disconnected and reconnected the battery, topped off the coolant, and took the car out, with no issues. I think the liquid out the exhaust was just condensation, because it was clear.
Car now runs fine, slight stumble that has been there since it was new, and no loss of coolant or overheating. Car pulls strongly through the gears all the way past 5K.
Thanks for the help.
Viraf
I checked all the plugs, no sign of anything wrong. Disconnected and reconnected the battery, topped off the coolant, and took the car out, with no issues. I think the liquid out the exhaust was just condensation, because it was clear.
Car now runs fine, slight stumble that has been there since it was new, and no loss of coolant or overheating. Car pulls strongly through the gears all the way past 5K.
Thanks for the help.
Viraf
Could be the BPV is stuck open. Not that common of an issue but you never know. This would cause lack of boost, or a 'flat spot' that you describe. Does it pull hard after this flat spot?
My guess is still a big boost leak. Pull off the intercooler cover and see if the boots slid off at all.
My guess is still a big boost leak. Pull off the intercooler cover and see if the boots slid off at all.
most def could be a blown head gasket. mine is being replaced by the dealership this week on my 08 cooper s with only 9000 miles! i know its a different engine but just thought id share. mine started very mild and progressivly got worse over the course of a month
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The sucking sound may be because you need to open the throttle Farther to get the same amount of Power. The little Chrysler Neon Engines have "VERY" Short Valve guides and the Valves start to wobble and first you lose power and then the Yellow light starts to come on with Emission Codes.
You can buy a Compression Tester from Harbor Freight Tools or Auto Zone for less than $50 and usually under $25.
All you need to do is remove ALL of the SPark Plugs, Disconnect the Coil (Small wire plug leading to the coil) to keep from ruining an electrical part. Do this After you have warmed up the engine. The check the compression. You want to see between 125 and 165 PSI and what ever it is, you do not want to see more than 5 to 10 PSI Difference between the cylinder readings. Also if you have a small Oil Squirt can after yopu have taken the DRY Readings, Squirt a few squirts in 1 cylinder at a time and recheck the readings. They Should go up a little but if they go up a lot, you have Ring Issues OK?
You can buy a Compression Tester from Harbor Freight Tools or Auto Zone for less than $50 and usually under $25.
All you need to do is remove ALL of the SPark Plugs, Disconnect the Coil (Small wire plug leading to the coil) to keep from ruining an electrical part. Do this After you have warmed up the engine. The check the compression. You want to see between 125 and 165 PSI and what ever it is, you do not want to see more than 5 to 10 PSI Difference between the cylinder readings. Also if you have a small Oil Squirt can after yopu have taken the DRY Readings, Squirt a few squirts in 1 cylinder at a time and recheck the readings. They Should go up a little but if they go up a lot, you have Ring Issues OK?
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