When repairing a mushroomed strut tower, is it best to start banging on the strut tower to flatten it out a little BEFORE I try to loosen the nuts and take the OEM strut mount out, or is it best to leave all the banging until AFTER taking the mount out?

I'm worried with my luck, the strut mount bolts will be tweaked and break or rip off the studs if I try to unbolt them in their mushroomed state.

 

MOD - please move this over to https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lems-issues-9/

thanks

 

Firstly: Inspect the top of the strut to determine if it's just the tower that needs repair. If it's just the tower, there is no need to remove the strut so proceed to step 2.

Second: Jack that corner up just enough to take pressure off the strut.

Third: Take the nuts off.

Fourth: If you have strut tower plates (STP) you're going to install, place them in position (without bolting down) to identify where the high spots are. Remove the plate(s) before step 5.

Fifth: Place a short length of 2x4 on the mushroomed section and proceed to beat the 2x4 with a large hammer.

Sixth: Test fit STP and continue to beat tower until plate fits flat.

Seventh: Re-install nuts, REMEMBER TO TORQUE TO YOUR YEAR SPECIFICATIONS. Don't over torque.

Easy fix. Less than 30 minutes.

 

Thanks for the the good info.

I'm guessing the oem strut mount plates are tweaked and with 85k miles, the rubber has to be wearing too. I'm putting in some vorshlag adjustable camber plates and m7 strut tower plates to help keep everything flat.

I'm wondering if the mushrooming is putting any pressure on the bolts that is going to cause an issue when I take them out.