It looks like my inner and out pads aren't wearing evenly. Is that normal?

I just replaced the rear pads. (I was being to optimistic and just bought new rotors I'll be putting on tomorrow.)

My inner pads were done. My passenger side was just about to turn on the sensor. My driver-side would have turned on the sensor if it had one...
THe weird thing is the outer pads were only at about 50% worn.
Is that normal? My Dad said he thinks Some cars are just like that. He knows cars but is really more from the drum era so I don't know if that's true.

Also It looks like I need some kind of torques bit to get the rotors off? Anybody know what size or shape that is? I've found lots of pad how to posts but nothing on the rotors.
I've replaced lots of pads but never rotors. Is it just as simple as unbolting the old rotor and putting the new one on?

 

it's a torx bit yup. get some pb blaster and soak it good. dont use a ratchet but rather an extension and hammer and turn as you strike . if you have an impact set then forget aforementioned . uneven wear is typical and very common . make sure pads slide free and aren't forced in place . put a bit of lythium grease on sliders too . all must be clean first though . i think it's due to the e-brakes . i use mine all the time and the rear calipers needed rebuilding . maybe coincidence .

 

Seems really odd to me that they wouldn't wear evenly considering that they are floating calipers (I think that's what they're called). I'd be interested to hear what others say.

 

I think it's a T-50.
Yes, replacing rotors is easy - just off then on.
Make sure to grease the sliding pins. (You'll need an allen wrench for that.) I just replaced my stock sliders with Tyrolsports and was surprised that the stockers were basically dry.

 

My rears wore very unevenly (inside more) on my first couple of sets of pads until I did the Tyrolsport bushings. Pedal feel also improved a bit.

 

the rotor bolt is a T-50

as stated soak it good with PB blaster or the like then make SURE you keep the bit well seated in the bolt as you turn it out. If you let it slip and produce the least bit of rounding U R screwed

rear rotors can be removed with minimal additional work once you have the caliber off for the pad change. On the front (for a GEN1 anyway) you'll need to remove the caliber hanger bracket (two bolts) else you can't get the rotor free of the hub. There's just the one torx bolt but the hub vs the caliber bracket just ain't enuf room. On the rear there IS enuf room and you should be able to get the rotor free once the TORX is removed. The rotor is only held by the wheel bolts ... the torx is really just an alignment aide. If your rotor sticks just whack on it and then once off, clean up the rust and use a bit of 'anti-seize' lube b4 you put things together to save grief next time.

If it appears the caliber isn't floating then consider replacing the bushings in the calibers. I've never had the problem but many consider replacing the rubber with a better bushing a must do. My pads have always worn fairly evenly...sorry.

http://new.minimania.com/Search_Inve...=brake+bushing

 

I'm new to the mini, but in general, if you have uneven pad wear on one wheel, it means the caliper is sticking. Usually you can get a caliper rebuild kit for pretty cheap ($~15 for other vehicles I have done this on). You disassemble the caliper and polish the piston, clean the bore and all the caliper bits and pieces, then reassemble with new rubber seals/boots, using some brake grease to make sure everything is moving freely.

A stuck caliper is dragging a pad or two and causes your rotor to heat up, it can cause premature failure/warping of you rotors, besides the extra wear on the pads, so it is important to repair it.

 

The uneven wear is on both rears sets of pad

I spent some time with my dad's impact wrench & Liquid wrench Sunday with no luck. It turns out his compressor is dying and wasn't building up much pressure. I haven't done any damage yet...

I'm going to let some penetrating oil soak in and then try my little compressor.

 

Last winter on the passenger rear I had one pad completely wear down, the inside pad backing was grinding into the rotor and the outside pad had about 25% life left. Of course it was snowing when this happened so I had to take it to a shop to have my brakes done

 

I'm in CT and my garage is detached... working on your car in 25F weather isn't that bad

 

I think what SlowGSX described is pretty normal, my '03 rear pads wore that way too, and my sliders were clean and well lubed, and I'm confidant the calipers weren't sticking.

You also need a special tool to wind the rear pistons back into the calipers, you have to turn the piston as you push it back in to reset the em brake. You can buy the tool for about $20 on sale at Harbor Freight, or you may be able to rent/borrow it at your local auto parts store.

 

I went to Autozone and they "rented" it to me for "free" Technically I bought a used tool from them and I have 90 to return it for a full refund.

I don't recall exactly but it was over $40 at the Harbor Freight near me. you must have caught a good sale.

 

I went to HF site to check since I've quoted this same price many times......it appears HF now has TWO tools for this job

the US General that many found on sale for $20

and a NEW Pittsburgh Professional for $40

quick look at the pictures and I see two compression tools in the new PP set .... so you can do both sides at once? Not sure I see the advantage of that.....most of us jack one side at a time and many brake DIY warn to do one side at a time, leaving the other intact so you have a reference for reassembly.....

 

Buy a quality T50 Socket.
The T50 bolt holding my rotors on was frozen of course.

I tore up a cheap T50 socket and wasted a lot of time with no results.

I bought a higher quality T50 socket and the bolts came out with relative ease (still used heat and a lot of penetrating oil)

 

were you doing by hand or using an impact gun?

 

you really could do both sides at once with just one tool. the calipers don't return until you press the pedal (at least mine don't). I can't seem to find this on the HF site, but maybe the pro set has different sizes? or different number of depressions.. i assume not all calipers are as small as ours are.

i compress mine w/out the turning thing.. i just squeeze it a little, then turn it some, then squeeze it a little, then turn it some... it's slow, but it works. nice and easy..