I think ill just get an extended warranty b4 i take it to the dealer. I just don't have the time to mess with this right now.

Found the part for $150 less than dealer if anyone was interested.
http://www.bimmerschwag.com/partloca...&siteid=215477

 

Is there an aftermarket HPFP that would be more reliable? I wonder if they have worked out the issue for the 2010 that I just got? Guess we'll see.

 

I got Mini USA involved and asked to see if they could help with replacing the fuel pump. They were very helpful and was impressed with how quickly they responded back. I agreed to take the car to a mini dealer (East Bay Mini) to have the problem officially diagnosed. A few days later i got a call from the dealer and they said that the HPFP was bad and needed to be replaced (DUH!) Well long story short they replaced it under warranty although the car was 11k miles over warranty. (YEAH!) They even paid for a rental for 3 days wile the car was being serviced. Good Job MINI!!!

They were explaining to my wife that they you shouldn't let the cars fuel get below the red warning lights because it will cause the fuel pump to go out prematurely...but earlier they confirmed that the increased ethanol content in the USA was causing the seals to fail. I think they need to stop pointing fingers and just find a manufacture to build a quality unit designed for gasoline and ethanol fuels...E85 ring a bell? Well i hope the new HPFP will last a long useful life. So happy to have my mini back and starting on the first try

 

Does this look like the same High Pressure Fuel Pump issue?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF1BNhc0mL8

 

My Mini was hard to start, it would take 3-5 times, and then couldn't keep the idle above 1500 rpm or it would die. Probably because the pressure of the cylinder overcame the pressure provided by the fuel pump. I would get missfire codes and the engine light would start flashing due to the computer shutting down cylinders because of misfires trying to protect the engine. After the HPFP went to full pressure it would all go away and run fine. I dont live where it would be -2C and usually in the garage. Im sure there are different failure symptoms. Some owners clam that it failed wile drive...for me that wasn't the case.

 

@M1sterWhite-

Mine was very similar to BriguyR56's- with the engine running near-stall (~600RPMish) sometimes bouncing up to 1200-1500. I could sometimes get the engine to rev above 2,000RPM, but if I could get it to do that it would almost always begin to run correctly. I was never able to rev the engine like you do in the video, unless the car had already been running long enough to straighten out.

There's also been some reported cases of some icing in very cold weather that makes for rough running until the engine warms enough to melt the throttle/intake bits out.