Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Coil removal to get to spark plugs...

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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #26  
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if they are pointing 90 degrees to where they were at (straight up) then they should be able to go... you unplugged the connector right?

just grip and rip lol. you can twist as well. there can be rust on the outside of the coils which may make them tough... also do it cold
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the reply. Just pulling didn't work. I took the clips off, used some channel lock pliers lightly around the tops, a piece of wood for a fulcrum and levered them out. They came pretty easy that way.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #28  
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cool. you might want to grease the boots for next time then with some dielectric grease or whatever it is
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
cool. you might want to grease the boots for next time then with some dielectric grease or whatever it is
Silcon greese should do it. Glad you got them off. Also, be care on taking the spark plug out. If they seem to get tight as you are unscrewing them, screw them back in a 1/4 or half turn. Don't force them after they are loose.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #30  
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sorry for bringing an old thread back to life.

Going to replace plugs on my 2007 MCS and curious if I should replace coils as well. Car has 64k on it. Doubt any of the 64k maint was done since I bought the car with 62k on it.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 09:09 PM
  #31  
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No need to replace the coils unless you have a miss in the engine. Those will be obvious when the fail.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #32  
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No need to replace the coils. Just replaced the plugs on my better-half's R56 with 64K on the clock. It idles noticeably better now.

My trick to get the coils off was to leave the wires attached so there is more to grip, grab the whole assembly, and start twisting side-to-side a little while pulling up. Eventually the coil boot comes up enough that you can lift the tab (which pushes the connector off) then pull the coil the rest of the way out.

Remember, you probably need this:

MINI spark plug socket

or better yet, this:

Long spark plug socket

in order to change the plugs. Standard sockets will not work on OEM plugs for the R56.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #33  
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I bought one of these from eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-BENZ-NISSAN-MINI-3-8-x14mm-12PT-Thin-Walled-Spark-Plug-Socket-/151115208199?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item232f2b1607&vxp=mtrsame price as WMW one but no shipping costs, and it works perfectly. It even has a little mechanism inside the socket that will "hold" the spark plug as you pull it out. I was slightly wary of the quality, but it works fine, all you need is a socket extension you can find at Home depot to make it long enough.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #34  
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double post ><
 

Last edited by 3lusive; Sep 17, 2013 at 04:47 PM. Reason: double post
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 3lusive
I bought one of these from eBay: BMW Benz Nissan Mini 3 8"X14MM 12pt Thin Walled Spark Plug Socket | eBay
same price as WMW one but no shipping costs, and it works perfectly. It even has a little mechanism inside the socket that will "hold" the spark plug as you pull it out. I was slightly wary of the quality, but it works fine, all you need is a socket extension you can find at Home depot to make it long enough.
I wouldn't worry about the quality too much, as long as the thing works. You only torque plugs 15-19 ft/lbs., so the socket could almost be made of plastic and still hold up.

Tip: Get a locking extension, or use tape to hold the socket onto the extension. The insert in a spark plug socket can hold onto the plug tighter than the extension holds onto the socket, and you keep leaving the socket inside the cylinder head. Can be frustrating, especially on engines with narrower and deeper plug wells than the MINI.

That's why I sprung for the long socket. No extension required.
 

Last edited by trwxxa; Sep 17, 2013 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 05:20 AM
  #36  
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"It's alive!"


...this thread, that is.

As part of my 50K maintenance, I wanted to replace the spark plugs. Simply couldn't get the coil-connectors to budge. Nothing I ready helped, and I feared breaking the plastic connectors on top.

Then I read trwxxa's suggestion above to leave the wires attached until you get it free. Worked like a charm (better grip).

In advance of my 80K plug change, I lightly coated the side of the coils with SuperLube w/Teflon...and the plug threads...upon reassembly.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #37  
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I tried to change out the plugs on my wife's MINI. No luck pulling the coils off. Asked my favorite MINI tech. His advice was to pull them off with the engine hot. Worked like a charm. Now wait until the engine cools to remove & reinstall the plugs.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 09:01 PM
  #38  
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I just replaced my spark plugs at 40,000 miles. After removing the wires the coils came out after twisting them back-and-forth a bit and then a firm tug up. They certainly didn't come on the first pull.
The old plugs had an even deposit of tan-brown soot on the electrodes but the gap had eroded from 1mm to about 1.2mm. The engine ran noticeably smoother at idle with the new plugs.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 07:19 AM
  #39  
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Just replaced my spark plugs on my justa (replaced them with BERU, original spark plugs were also BERU). I tried to replace them while the car was cold and waited a few hours after I got home from work. The car was still warm. Coils were a bit snug and took a lot of pulling with good grip to get out. If you have a good grip and pull straight up, they'll come out. Getting the coils out was the most time consuming ~15mins. After that the actual spark plug change was a breeze! Saved me $235 at the dealer!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #40  
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@52k on the 2008 Justa, the advice above all works. Engine hot, leave wire attached until the coils are off, remove coils, then twist and pull straight up and let cool a while before you remove the plugs with a long deep well socket. Craftsman makes a thin wall deep socket in 3/8" drive that slips right in there. Magnet can pull the plug out if it falls out of the socket but only one of mine did.

Much smoother engine at idle now, old plugs looked fine and no codes. I used Beru.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 06:42 PM
  #41  
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Just to add another post to this old thread - - -

On the subject of removing the coils ... I flip up the clip, unplug the connector and leave the clip open. Pass a long-ish screwdriver or similar tool through the clip and rest the pointy end on the valve cover. Pull up on the screwdriver handle with a firm, even pressure and the coils just pop off. I've done it this way several times and haven't damaged one yet.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #42  
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^^^this^^^
This is exactly the way my mechanic did mine yesterday, Took him about five minutes to change the plugs.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 02:31 PM
  #43  
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coil removal

I just did my plugs today. This method rocks. Open the wire attachment, stick a large screwdriver through to opening, rest the opposite end of the screwdriver on the head and gently leverage the coils out without a problem. The End.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 04:00 AM
  #44  
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I have a 2012 R56S and I change my plugs every 20,000. I stay with the OEM BERU plug for the 2012 N18 motor. I run the MINI aggressively and have found that I don't want to go longer than 20,000.

My only changes to the car are a high flow AFE filter and a Cat-Back exhaust. So standard plugs treat me just fine.

The coils are suggested by MINI to be replaced every 100,000. This seems high to me. I haven't had any ignition issues that are noticeable so I'll wait to change the coils until 100,000.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 03:53 PM
  #45  
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Hello there! Can anyone help me. I need to change the coils and plugs on my 2012 Coupe S. I can't find any instructionals online. The dealer wants $677 to do it and I've heard it's a pretty easy operation.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by oddrockinegg
Hello there! Can anyone help me. I need to change the coils and plugs on my 2012 Coupe S. I can't find any instructionals online. The dealer wants $677 to do it and I've heard it's a pretty easy operation.


(Picture is of older N14 motor but still applies) The black part the green arrow is pointing to flips up. Then pull the wire assembly away from the coil pack and just pull the coil pack out of the well. Spark plugs are underneath. You'll need a 12 point 14mm spark plug socket, a long socket extension and a torque wrench. Unthread the old plugs, put some anti-seize on the new plugs, torque the new plugs down to 15lbs/ft, re install coil packs (reverse of removal).
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #47  
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Pulling the old coils out can be a PITA, only because they can stick. Just be patient and 'work' them.

Are you sure you need new coil packs? I'd change the plugs first, and if the problem persists (misfires), then get the coil packs... from ECS or any other sponsoring MINI parts house.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #48  
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Don't be afraid to pull hard on the pivot point of where the hinges are located for the plastic clips. If they haven't been removed in a long time it will require more force to get them off.

Caution be careful not to use a regular socket as these can get permanently stuck in the head, use a 12mm 14 point thin wall socket design for spark plugs! Burger Tuning has a nice one (black) with a magnet inside the socket so you don't need another tool to remove the plugs.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 05:58 AM
  #49  
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Watch those clips. : 12131437986

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/12131437986/ES28059/





Also you will need that socket.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...gine/Ignition/
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #50  
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Is this post still going?

See post #41 above

That is all.
 
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