I must say, this is one task that I hope I don't have to do it again. The parts itself were $81.25 shipped, which included a new housing, thermostat w/gasket, and MINI antifreeze/coolant.

It took me 3 hours to finish this, and I would honestly rate this job a 5/10, where 10 is the hardest and most time-consuming. I have done my share of swapping shocks/springs, brakes, intakes, sway bars, and this is a job where I used profanity way too much.

There was this silver hard line/wire that is attached with the MAP sensor bracket, and that wire was blocking the bottom screw to the thermostat housing, if one were to view from top of car. I had to push/pull/wiggle the hard line to move a little in order to access the bottom screw.

I'm open to questions if any fellow NAM member is looking to replace their thermostat by themselves.

 

I just got this done at the dealership, and one thing to NOT forget. Make sure you get all the air out of the housing before you hook everything back up.

They didn't do this at the dealership, and it caused an air bubble to get caught up in the pump so that it stopped moving coolant causing my Mini to way overheat. Luckily I got back to the dealership before any real damage could be done.

 

The dealership said my wifes 2005 MCS thermostat is leaking. I'm planning on replacing it myself and so will brush up on strings of loose profanity beforehand.

Dragonwang, a few questions for you if you don't mind.
1. Where did you get your parts from?
2. Did you follow any instructions or just use intuition?
3. Can you provide a short numbered list of the steps you took in the replacement?

I'd appreciate any help you can send my way. I'm technically inclinded and have done semi major work on cars before, but its been awhile and I don't really care for guesswork.

Thanks!

 

Check post #8

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hermostat.html

And
Coolant System Drain and Refill

1. Remove pressure cap.
2. Remove lower hose from radiator, and heater hoses at bulkhead. Use caution when coolant is hot.
3. Reinstall hoses after coolant has drained.
4. Open the coolant bleed screws in the upper hose and the heater return hose ( hose is off the t-stat housing ).
5. Fill engine with coolant (50/50 mix) through thermostat housing (expansion tank in COOPER S).

1. Continue to fill through thermostat housing (or expansion tank).
2. Fill expansion tank to "MAX".
3. Start engine and run at idle. Top up coolant as necessary.
4. Turn off engine and install pressure cap.

t-stat housing
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

t-stat can be found at your local parts store for $5-$10 ( gates 33489 or stant 35209 )

 

I recently had a radiator replaced... my mechanic (Dan Zipkin, Grassroots Garage) used a very cool venturi device that uses shop air to draw a vacuum on the cooling system, then suck in the coolant.... seemed to work very well and prevented a lot of the air-in-system issues we see often around here...

 

They're not terribly expensive either (depending on your level of tool-addiction... says the man who bought a lift... )

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/UV-550000.html

 

be careful not to spill coolant into the hose to the supercharger where the MAP sensor came out of

 

Any Ideas as to why the 05 and 06 models have so many problems with the thermostat housing?