wow read all the threads guys. Former Mercedes Cert Tech 20 yrs now with MINI and BMW. 22-25 lbs is ok. never locktight a plug. With that helicoli when it comes time to replaced that plug i bet it will pull that heli coil out.
I have Desno IK22's. I torqued them 2 yrs ago @ 23 lbs I think. never had a issue. its not a bad Idea cold to remove the plugs see how much force it took to remove or they just slid out. Install antisieze and retorued them all.
Espeically for modders lke us. With upgrade pulley and what not.
Iam here if you guy have any other qouestion about Mini or BMW Or Benzes
I am local in southern calif pm me happy thanksgiving

 

Man, I never heard of plugs blowing out until I started reading these threads. Incredible, (and scary).

I'm sticking with the OEM, (and will only change out at the recommended interval).

 

Unless there is something particular about the stock plugs, I find it hard to believe that a good quality aftermarket equivalent plug will not work just as well. It is my belief that the differences in metallurgy between the plug and head can cause different rates of expansion/contraction as the head heats and cools which can cause the plugs to loosen over time. Plugs coming loose, in my experience, is more a problem of proper torquing on installation than plug manufacturer. Applying antiseize is advisable especially where the plugs are in an alloy head. Worse than a plug blowing out is a seized plug which has frozen in the head. In the end it doesn't hurt to recheck the torque periodically.

 

is there any way we can make any of these "spark plug blowing out" threads a sticky? I've been a member of NAM since Aug. 2005 and although I'm not a "regular" on here, I try to read around two to three times a week and this just happened to me last night and I never heard of this happening before!!!! I'd hate to see this continue happening to more and more Mini owners if it can simply be avoided by checking the torque (never heard of that before and never had a problem in any of my other cars but this car is a BMW so it comes with the territory)!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Steve

 

I just experienced the spark plug blow out on my 2003 Cooper S. And yes I was running aftermarket plugs but about 4 years now. A new head is $4700 installed my local dealership just quoted so I am interested in trying out the helicoil option.

Can some tell me what are the helicoil part numbers I need to get to do the job?

 

Charles sorry to hear about your misfortune man. I just got my car back running again about two weeks ago. I had a time-sert bushing installed and everything seems to run just as good as before. Here's a link to a thread regarding the same problem with a lot of good info on it. Check it out, I'm pretty sure they have links to the part #'s for Time-Sert:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...formation.html

Hope this helps man

Steve

 

I have an 03 MCS, "The Hamster" and I have had this happen twice. The first time was a simple spark plug replacement, as the electrode was bent, and had the codes reset, for number 3 cylinder misfire. Problem solved, so I thought. The second time, I thought the same thing spark plug replacement, but I knew that this wasn't right, since spark plugs don't usually back themselves out, but it did. So, I knew that the threads must be damaged, shopped around and found J&F Motors in Arlington, VA . "The Hamster needed open heart surgery" They specialize in BMW/Mini, and they have a in house machine shop. The manager told me, that they have numerous issues like this with Ford cylinder heads, and they do allot of these. He also said that Mini's have this problem as well, but not that numerous. He said to bring the car in, so they can take a look at it, to see if I need a new head, or they can place in a helicoil . That right there convinced me that these were the right people since Mini of Sterling was going to rape me. So I took the car in the machinist looked at it, and said those all important words "we can fix it" So they got to work, and the good news is that they didn't have to removed the head, yah baby. No head, exhaust or intake gasket kit needed. Besides that, no additional cost for labor. just retap and thread in the helicoil into the head, with thread locker. Then pressure test the cylinder, put in a new spark plug, and I'm burning up I95 again. The important thing to note is, that it doesn't work in all cases, especially if the heads spark plug socket and intake or exhaust valve seats are cracked. Then you'll need to replace the head, for around $2000. I was lucky, I didn't need one, and they told me the helicoil will last a long time. I don't race the car, but I don't baby it either I push this car all the time on the interstate around DC. Granted this car isn't stock, I have quite alot of mods from CAI to borla exhaust, ignition (plugs, wires and coil), ECU upgrade, injectors, SC pulley, and Air-Water intercooler, etc.. The Hamster lives again, so if you see a black MCS flying past you, it probably was me

 

I need to remember to re-torque my plugs this weekend.

 

I agree....what an unfortunate learning experience this was

 

im still baffeled by these problems. ive must of tried most of the plugs on the market and settled on the ngk bkr's and never had a single problem to date and i change the plugs once a year.

 

Gentlemen, we now have alot of people worried about after market plugs. After market plugs aren't the issue, the issue that I had with those plugs was that I didn't torque to specs. I caused my MCS to have open heart surgery, because I didn't torque my plugs. I did tighten them down with alot of force, though. But this was a learning experience for me, I'll never do that again. Message to all keep your after market plugs, and torque them to 22-25 lbs/ft.

 

thats been my point since this issue started. maybe it me but i never have used a torque wrench to put plugs in or had an issue of them popping out or loosing. i guess its a "feel" thing to know when they are the right tightness.

 

I've made re-torquing the plugs something I do at each oil change, 6K - 7K for oil changes. I've yet to find a loose plug, but I'm really enjoying the peace of mind.

 

IF anyone wanted to know. spark plug tq spec is 27nm or 19.9141780311 lb lol

 

Last time I retorqued a spark plug, it sheared off, and that was my last time retorquing a plug for me. I've been told it was defective, but it scared me enough...not having an extractor to remove the threads..to leave me stranded for a day.

Also for those doing the helicoil/thread cert or similar, don't panic the next time you pull a plug and the coil comes out with the plug, lol. It was pretty disconcerting the first time I saw that.

 

does the coil just screw right back in?

 

Yep it just screws back in.

 

it'd be parrallel resistance so the plug with least resis. would be fine .

 

right - on man .
ngk makes a fantastic plug and i've never had an issue 93000 mls.. oh yeah i do torque and do check at oil changes , though none are ever loose .

 

or buy a head in the market place and have it done locally

 

Barry thats why you never had an issue with the plugs. If you are changing them constantly there never really is enough time for them to loosen up. In regards to you just tightening them, well that's exactly where I went wrong. I worked in a Toyota dealership for over 2 years and installed more spark plugs than I could ever remember. Not once did I ever torque them!!?? it never would have crossed my mind either. Like I've said before, I guess its just a German thing

You know you're not going to find a loose plug if you are checking and retorqueing the plugs at every oil change right? Can't blame ya for doing it but don't seem so suprised that they are still tight when you check them.

Again, I dont think that these loosening up is in a matter of one oil change. This is a gradual slow process. It's not a recommended maintenance procdure, so there's no reason why you should have to check the tighteness. They shouldn't be coming loose in the first place. I'm not gonna lie though, now that I realize how pathetic this car is I'm going to make sure my plugs are tight every oil change as well. Doesn't make any sense but apparently it just comes with the territory.

Steve

 

I've heard mostly about Denso Iridiums backing out. I'm not real wild about this plug for other reasons. However, has anyone tried checking the threads over wires?

Has anyone put a dental mold on the threads and put it on a comparator? The pitch diameter or the thread form of these plugs may be wrong.

If the threads aren't right, they will not contact the female threads properly and will not hold torque properly.

 

I'd think that if the threads on the Denso Iridiums were wrong they would not thread in. It would be easy enough to check with the thread gauge.

I'm running the stock plug so I have no issue's with wrong thread pitch. Even so I check the torque at each oil change. So far I've found everything nice & snug. I am happy.

 

My #2 Iridium plug blew out last night. What a sick feeling that makes! It had been in for 3 years and 50k miles. Very strange. Installed an Emhart Heli-coil plug kit and it seems to work as advertised. Hoping this is enough....

cheers,
jeffro

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune Jeff, but glad you got it back up and running quickly. Yet another catastrophic failure that could have been avoided had it been made public that we HAVE to check the torque on these aftermarket plugs regularly. Is anyone in charge reading this thread??? Can't we make this a sticky so this can be avoided?!?!?!?

Steve