Update on my situation...
Found a company that sells Reman Compressors on eBay for $230. Got it, installed it (pretty easy job... apx 2 hrs), then went to the shop for a recharge.

When they were recharging, they noticed the pressures were way off. (When you fill the low pressure side to 35psi, the high pressure side should run at about 200psi. Mine was over 300psi) The tech says this is normally a sign of a plugged expansion valve. so they evacuated the system and I'm still driving through the Arizona desert w/ no A/C.

So my Compressor clutch most likely went out because it couldn't handle the high pressures it was pumping against, And the Valve most likely got plugged due to improper recharging procedures a few months ago (By a different shop) when I replaced the condensor after it got punctured.

Pellican parts has a new expansion valve for $35 so got that ordered but shop said it's located somewhere under the dash... Could be a fun install!

 

2 questions on a r53:

1. What does it mean if the low pressure is at 130?
2. is the only way to see the clutch engage from underneath?

thanks.

 

1. if the system was origionally filled corectly I would guess the compressor is not running.

2. Short answer, yes. the compressor is burried below the alternator, which is burried below the supercharger. It would be extremely difficult to see from above if not impossible.

 

Louie B. my local shop told me they had to remove the dash to replace the expansion valve

 

No they dont. The expansion valve is located in the firewall, you have to first unbolt it from the outside, below the air filter box, then remove it from inside, just above the gas pedal.

It is a major PITA though!

I hope he doesn't mind me re-posting this, Texas motorer k-huevo did a fantastic write-up on the process here:
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...read.php?t=571

 

Thanks

 

Re: confirming engagement of the compressor clutch, it can be seen from above but requires a flashlight.

 

My 2002 AC quit the same time the fan did. Last time it worked I had left the car running sitting still on a hot day. The fan would cycle on to high speed, then off. When I got home, AC was blowing hot air, and no fan at all. I got a new fan from rockauto and plugged it in with it standing up against the car, suported so I would not damage the blade. I started the car, started the ac and when the engine got hot enough the fan kicked on to high speed. It did NOT start on low speed with the engine cool and the ac running. I checked that the compressor was running with my gauge set, and it was charged. Any reason why the fan did not start on low speed?

 

According to the Bentley manual, the fan turns on when the AC is on and the AC system pressure reaches 8 bar (114psi). Could be that your compressor is toast. I have the same issue.

 

Sigh. That's what I was afraid of. I am researching a compressor replacement now. While doing teardown to replace fan I found the big black plastic front panel busted in half at the bottom, and several bolts and nuts missing from some previous shade tree idiot's work. Then I found a outer cv boot split. Not my day. I ordered the parts from bavauto, and will have to get back to the ac problem once the car is roadworthy.

 

I have recharged our '03 Mini S several times, as well as other vehicles. Yesterday, while driving to a diner, it was blowing cold as ever. After breakfast, nothing but hot air. I bought a can of 134a, and checked the low pressure side. It was over 100 with the A/C running on max. I know I cannot charge with the pressure that high. Any thoughts as to what could be the problem?

 

Louie B, What relays did you check? My r53 is having the same symptoms.

 

I have the Bentley manual too. Can you tell me where it says that? Ive looked and cant find it.

 

Page 170-3 'Radiator and Cooling System', under 'electric cooling fan'.

 

Ok everyone, need help!! Got an A/C that quit running on a 2003 mini cooper. We checked the fuses, power, relay and refrigerant levels but in looking at the A/C compressor where the wires to power it come into the compressor does anyone know if that is a fuselink or if there is a fuse in there?? It appears that there is or might be and that might be why the compressor is not coming on but wanted to see if anyone knew whether that was the case before removing the compressor?? Any help would be appreciated, please.

Okay everyone so here is the update on the a/c issue ... finally got the compressor loose and off today and was able to make sure that it is free and functioning. Also checked the clutch while it was out and determined that everything was functioning properly on that end however checked the power coming into the clutch and it has no power. Checked the pressure switch on the low side line and unsure on the results of that however anyone know what components are included in the a/c circuit and does anyone else have ideas about what to do with this??

 

Also I should mention that the pressure on the low side reads 150.

 

The A/C in my 2003 MCS went out last summer at around 75K. The car now has 89K. This August I am going on a road trip throughout the Southwest and want my A/C. It's at the dealer now. I was hopeful for a recharge, but just got the call saying the compressor clutch had failed. I am having the dealer replace it to the tune of $1625 installed. At this point, my justification is that I don't want to buy a new car, and being a non-mechanically inclined gal, I'd rather have them fix it and be done with it.

Anyhow, thanks for this thread. I had consulted it before and knew that I probably would have to replace the compressor. C'est la vie. It's still a damn cute car and I'll be driving it for the next 9 years.

 

$1625 is a whole lot of change. Did you ask them for details on what items will be replaced?

 

Just got a call that my car is done. The maintenance gal said that the compressor was replaced, the freon (R134?) and miscellaneous gaskets. I honestly think that it costs so much due to the labor of getting to it in the small engine compartment. I'll post again when I confirm I have a very chilly A/C breeze again.

 

As I suspected, half of that amount was parts and half was labor. The air is cool and reminds me of how the A/C used to work. Yay.

 

Have the same problem w/ 05 S. Diagnosed as bad cooling fan. I replaced it w/ a part from BuyAutoParts.com for $76. While diagnosing this problem, compressor began to make noise from high pressure. I was assured it would stop when the fan was replaced, which I did. Now the compressor is out and I am waiting for a new compressor and kit from discountacparts.com off of e-bay for $395. Also, I am getting a -40 outside temp reading and the dreaded SES light came on. Hopefully when the compressor is replaced the computer will reset itself???

 

-40 outside temp indicates your temp sensor is disconnected. It's attached to the inside of the bumper cover and sometimes gets detached when it gets taken off. Shouldn't affect the SES as far as I know.
If you're doing it yourself, the 'Rudy method' - remove lower engine brace and use a ratchet strap to pull the engine back a few inches gives access to the compressor bolts without pulling the front end.

 

Congrats. Did they replace the compressor or just the clutch? And whenever the system is opened, the drier must also be replaced... did they?

 

For $1600, the better have!

To others reading this thread - shops will charge book time for this job - which calls for placing the car in 'service mode', essentially pulling off the front end. The compressor can be removed from the bottom without doing this, by removing the bottom engine mount and PS fan and using a strap to pull the engine to the rear. This gives enough space to get to the compressor and takes far less time.

 

I replaced the temp sensor. Still get the -40 reading as well as SES. Compressor kit should arrive tomorrow, so I'll start on that as well as changing the oil on the SC as I have 80K on my 05 S MC.