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I thought it was time to pick up a 03 R53 6spd weekend warrior for fun and a few autocrosses and here is my experience in no particular order with my Mini with 151,000miles on the clock:
1-pc valve
1-Map sensor
!-supercharger inlet duct
!-set of 4 brakes and rotors
4-wheels and tires----3 wheels were bent
2-front struts----went with Koni Yellow
2-front strut mounts
4-inner and outer ball joints both sides
2-control arm bushings----both sides---changed to poly
2- oil exchanger seals
1-valve cover gasket
4- spark plug tube seals
4-spark plugs
1-oil and filter change
1-transmission oil change
1-rear sway bar----stock bar changed over to the 25mm Hotchkiss bar
1-g-lock added to the drivers seat belt
3-right side motor mounts
1-used strut bar added after fixing the mushroomed strut towers
!-wheel alignment
!-new air filter
!-new heat/a/c filter
1-rear seat delete
!-abs sensor---still chasing that problem
1-ATI harmonic balancer
1-belt tensioner stablus shock
several light bulbs
I think that pretty well covers the work done over the last 3 months, by myself. With the help gleaning info from NAM forums and Google I figured out how to do all the repairs. The Bentley repair book and Hayes are all but useless, the biggest aid are the DYI videos on you tube----a huge benefit. I also found that most of parts vendors other than Way and Jan were useless on the phone. They all talk a big line on the forums but are not much help on the phone---at least that is my experience. By doing my own work I saved thousands of dollars in labor costs----I spent a lot of time researching parts and found Pelican was by far the cheapest generally for Lemforder parts which in most cases are OEM but their phone system sucks-----I found several Lemforder parts with the BMW name ground off.
Although with a few frustrating times I have enjoyed my project, I knew work would be needed when I bought the car but I did not anticipate as much wrong as it turned out.
that's awesome! I have 2 curiosities. One is I'm really curious how you like/will like the cg seat belt lock. I've been wanting schroth belts for years but haven't been able to justify the cost of them and the cg lock looks like a good alternative. For autocross, I usually just lock the seatbelt and scoot my seat forward but it's inconvenient.
the other thing that crossed my mind is, you're chasing an ABS sensor, so that means you don't have ABS right now, right? Personally I'd prefer to not have ABS when I'm tracking/autocrossing, does anybody know if there is a way to disable the abs by pulling a fuse? or is the sensor the only way?
So far I do like the G-lock, it is not a replacement for a full harness but it does do it's job and is convenient. In regards to the ABS----the lights are on but know matter how hard I get on the brakes they do not lock up----so the ABS seems to be working even though the lights say otherwise.
Looks like you've got a fun project on your hands. Sorry to hear that we were unable to assist you on the phone. If you do call, please ask to speak to Mike S. He is one of our MINI guru's. I am also here to help so you can shoot me a PM at any time and I will help you as best as I can. Also, the nice thing about our tech articles is if you leave a comment down below the article in the comment & suggestions section we have another extremely well versed MINI guy (Nick) who will weigh in and give you his expertise input as well. If you need anything or have any other questions as you continue to work on your project please do not hesitate to reach out to me.
Well the O-rings on the oil heater/exchanger have beeb completed as well as replacing the right side inner and outer ball joints and control arm bushing. The right side 1/2 shaft is out waiting for new boots. The bushings on the control arm were poly and the bushing at the end of the short shaft of the control arm is where the failure was. My homemade puller made up of Ace Hardware parts to replace the poly bushing worked like a charm!!!!
Doing the work yourself you come to grasp with the amazing amount of engineering that goes into the autos of today. 3-D computer programs have helped put an amazing amount of mechanical operating equipment into such small spaces.
Of course coming from a time where the engine was an island in an ocean, and you had ample space to access things, I do use a few choice words accessing some of the components on the Mini. Changing a water pump on a 70 Chevy was a piece of cake, changing a water pump on the Mini, holy sh . . . . . . . . . . . .
Great job Sherman! If you ever have any questions or need help, just PM me. We have numerous experts on staff with decades of experience working on street and race MINIs, and they're on the phone and answering email almost all day. So, just let me know! :D That's why we're on NAM, to help enthusiasts like us for over 40 years. Fortunately, I haven't had as much to do to my R53, but I'm prepared.
After changing the oil and attempting to replace the filter into the housing I find the plastic drain valve and spring in the bottom of the housing----so the search starts for the black plastic valve and due to a keen eye of one of my fellow NAM readers I get the info on a Dorman OE Solutions part# 904-261 from OReilly Parts is a match to the BMW drain valve----it is used in the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke as a drain back valve in the filter housing for $10.00----NO $400.00 need to be spent for a oil filter housing-----just $10.00----this is a thourough embarrassment to BMW-----making Mini S people buy the $400.00 unit instead of a $10.00 valve. Even when your oil/heat exchanger is good you can only buy the complete package instead of just the housing. It will be interesting to see how many Mini parts dealers pick up on this and carry the Dorman Valve instead of the $400.00 housing!!!!!!!
After changing the oil and attempting to replace the filter into the housing I find the plastic drain valve and spring in the bottom of the housing----so the search starts for the black plastic valve and due to a keen eye of one of my fellow NAM readers I get the info on a Dorman OE Solutions part# 904-261 from OReilly Parts is a match to the BMW rain valve----it is used in the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke as a drain back valve in the filter housing for $10.00----NO $400.00 need to be spent for a oil filter housing-----just $10.00----this is a thourough embarrassment to BMW-----making Mini S people buy the $400.00 unit instead of a $10.00 valve. Even when your oil/heat exchanger is good you can only buy the complete package instead of just the housing. It will be interesting to see how many Mini parts dealers pick up on this and carry the Dorman Valve instead of the $400.00 housing!!!!!!!
OMG, you pushed my BMW soapbox button. But first, thanks for sharing this part. I'll be ordering one shortly.
My 05 MCS is my sixth BMW product, though in truth its not as thoroughly corrupted as the newer MINI's. My oldest is an 89 325IC and the newest being a 2011 335is and I have seen things change over the years. Before I'd call it a learning curve.
Nowdays, its really more indicative of BMW arrogance and lack of concern about repair of their vehicles. I.E HPFP, LPFP, Plastic Water Pump, Plastic cooling system parts, Injectors, Steering Columns, all of these items should be "long life parts" but instead have been failing as early as 20k miles, across the entire BMW product line, not due to some new technology, but simply because of shoddy engineering or even worse, knowledge and planned obsolescence they would fail just past the warranty.
Today they are more interested in sales and their long term strategy seems to be "the next big thing." BMW places mfr cost way above the ability to repair. So engineering doesn't place much priority on repair. Translated, if you don't like spending outrageous money on parts, or labor, buy a new car, look it has "FREE" maintenance; and when the warranty runs out, buy a new one or pay another 2-4k for an extended BMW warranty. This apparently fits well with the typical instant gratification American ethos. There are less and less people who would consider working on a car, let alone make the investment in time, tools and greasy hands to do it. Now the big excuse is, we cant work on them because they have a computer; impossible to troubleshoot."
I work on my own, to include the newest, but on the very newest I wont buy without some kind of warranty, because of all the BMW parts failure/high cost time-bombs. Used to be if your car was recalled you though what a PITA this is to get the car into the dealer. Now, I take the wife out to eat in celebration as I have dodged another $2-3k parts bill. I.E fuel injectors in my 2011 335is N54 engine. They teased me with a recall notice, but curiously after one month the dealer still doesn't have it in their system and wont do it.
So far I have dodged all of the BMW foibles, but you would think I would just get smarter. In truth, I luv the car's style and performance, so I continue to gamble while hedging my bet.
Soapbox over.
sherman89, I am truly impressed Sir. Dang I should have stayed in Florida and we could have wrenched together, lol. I just move to Memphis, but that's another story. Interesting that you bought an 03 MCS. I just bought an 04 40th Anniversary MC with full JCW package, 160,000 miles. I too am in the same boat of doing all of the repairs. Been youtubing, googling, forums and so forth, and it's been fun. Belt, windshield replacement, engine mount, etc and my list pretty much looks like yours. Thanks for posting your list, as I stole a couple of items off the list, lol.
The pic showing the 1/2 shaft looks like the boot is leaking grease, I use wood on the floor jack and jack stands to get the side of the car higher so there is room for me and a creeper making things a little easier---what are you working on?
Today I replaced the belt, tomorrow the engine mount. Midweek I'm going to pull the axle and have a new boot installed or should I just get a whole new rebuilt axle. I read somewhere that people were just replacing the entire axle.
I did the boot thing and never again, it is such a mess---my outer boot was too big--------the clamps are a pain----and I will not mention the time. I bought my new A1 Cardone axles from parts geek for $65.00 a pop-----no more boots-----never.
I did the boot thing and never again, it is such a mess---my outer boot was too big--------the clamps are a pain----and I will not mention the time. I bought my new A1 Cardone axles from parts geek for $65.00 a pop-----no more boots-----never.
Can second this, did the same thing. Re-booting was a huge PITA and the axle broke anyway 10k mi later.
12-08-2016, 02:45 AM
Fortunately, I haven't had as much to do to my R53, but I'm prepared. 
