My '06 MCS brakes are due for attention. The rotors, especially the rears, are badly scored and corroded, and, even after a day of autocross runs, it is visibly apparent that I'm not getting full, even contact throughout what should be the swept area.

If the rotors can be turned, and are still within spec. for thickness, I'll probably do this, belt sand the pads smooth (plenty of meat on them still), and call it good for now.

If replacement rotors are in order, are cryogenic treated rotors allowable under stock rules? As I understand it, this process is used to enhance longevity rather than performance. I was thinking of going with Centric rotors from Tire Rack (an in-house brand?). They are priced aggressively, and I can't see spending a lot more money for a name brand or OEM functionally identical part (cast iron is cast iron, right?). I am well aware that slots, cast-in or drilled holes are all stock class no-nos for vehicles not originally equipped with them.

I have yet to experience brake fade on course. Does this indicate that the benefits of a dual purpose pad (Hawk HP+, Ferodo DS2500, etc.) would be lost on me? I'm fine with higher cost and shorter service life if there are tangible benefits. I can live with dust and a little bit of noise as well. In your experience, does greater "initial bite" translate to more difficult modulation?

thanks

 

From 2009 SCCA rule book, section 13.

Alternate components which are normally expendable and
considered replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings,
seals, gaskets, filters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors,
clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain
mounts, etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to
the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight,
material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no
performance benefit.

I think the hardness part makes the frozen rotors illegal. But for local events most don't care.

The more of a race pad you run the louder it will be and the long it will take to reach operating temperature and perform at peak levels. The Hawk HP+ is a good dual purpose pad. It is more aggressive than the HPS so you will have so noise when stopping. I like the HPS for DD and AX. The best thing to do is try a set to see if they work for you.

 

I run the EBC Yellow Stuff pads. I love them. They were pretty noisy until they were bedded in, and then from a noise and dust standpoint, they act like stock pads. When they're cold, their initial bite is about what the stock pads are. They build heat very quickly, and the more heat they build the harder they stop. It's funny though, I thought that with that hard of a bite, the modulation would be more difficult, but it's actually much easier.

EBC actually says that they're supposed to last longer and be easy on the rotors. I haven't had them on the car for long enough to comment on this though.

I haven't had them on a track or anything, but their road manners are great, especially for being classified as race pads.