Yellow engine power warning light
#51
Picked up CM4 from dealer yesterday after a 10-day stay. They "found nothing wrong" again, even though I have photos of the yellow engine light. They claimed the car was misfiring and replaced all spark plugs. I'm betting the plugs are being fouled because the turbo is shutting down causing the engine to work at higher RPM's and it is trying to kick on the turbo. I'm giving it one more chance so I can take pictures of the dash when the yellow light engine light comes on again. I'll then have 4 total reported times this has occurred and photographic evidence on 3 occasions. I'm then going to pursue this with everything I've got at my disposal.
Sure the problem is frustrating, but my real frustration is that my experience with car dealers is that they think the public is stupid. If they would just tell us they don't know what the problem is but they are working on a solution and have a targeted timeline for resolution, I'm certain a lot of us would feel better.
Sure the problem is frustrating, but my real frustration is that my experience with car dealers is that they think the public is stupid. If they would just tell us they don't know what the problem is but they are working on a solution and have a targeted timeline for resolution, I'm certain a lot of us would feel better.
#52
No, they claim to have tested all sensors and found no problems. I really believe the dealers do not know what the problem is and until Mini acknowledges it and resolves it, the problem will continue. It could be thermal related, but it could also be a number of other things causing it. I'm going to take a drive to the high country (I live in Colorado) soon and see if it happens again. Will have my camera ready.
#53
If the check engine light comes on, there should be a trouble code. Maybe if it happens again, in addition to a picture, go to the nearest auto shop or auto parts store and have them read the code while the light is still on.
I have a Scangauge connected to the OBD port on my car so I can read any trouble codes immediately. Also I use it to display actual coolant temperature, boost, and other functions. For example, if the thermostat goes bad it should be immediately apparent.
I have a Scangauge connected to the OBD port on my car so I can read any trouble codes immediately. Also I use it to display actual coolant temperature, boost, and other functions. For example, if the thermostat goes bad it should be immediately apparent.
#54
That's a really great idea, though the last time I worked on a car was roughly 1987 and I had to feel points on a 1978 Mazda rotary engine! Nonetheless, would like to get a scanguage connected. Any advice on how/where you can do that, please advise.
On a second note, I just spoke with the server manager at another Mini dealer who seems much more interested in helping me, though he's not terribly optimistic either. I'm taking the car to him next week and he's going to try and duplicate the problem. He did ask if the other folks posting similar issues lived at higher climates. What part of the country do you live in?
His final suggestion was that if the problem replicates and if they are unable to duplicate it, to escalate with Mini Nat'l. I'm probably going to get that ball rolling sooner than later.
On a second note, I just spoke with the server manager at another Mini dealer who seems much more interested in helping me, though he's not terribly optimistic either. I'm taking the car to him next week and he's going to try and duplicate the problem. He did ask if the other folks posting similar issues lived at higher climates. What part of the country do you live in?
His final suggestion was that if the problem replicates and if they are unable to duplicate it, to escalate with Mini Nat'l. I'm probably going to get that ball rolling sooner than later.
#55
The Scangauge II plugs into the OBDII universal port (present on all newer cars in US) right above the driver footrest. This is the port that your MINI dealer (or any shop) will use to check error codes.
The only hard parts are securing the extra wire with twist ties so that it does not fall down below the dash, and finding a mounting place for the velcro mount. I mounted it just left of the steering column/tach, and it is a tight fit. The down side of this location is that moving the steering column is somewhat restricted without pulling off and relocating the gauge.
They now have a smaller unit (SGe) (two parameter display) that would fit a Mini better:
http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugee/
The only hard parts are securing the extra wire with twist ties so that it does not fall down below the dash, and finding a mounting place for the velcro mount. I mounted it just left of the steering column/tach, and it is a tight fit. The down side of this location is that moving the steering column is somewhat restricted without pulling off and relocating the gauge.
They now have a smaller unit (SGe) (two parameter display) that would fit a Mini better:
http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugee/
Last edited by DR61; 03-14-2012 at 01:53 PM. Reason: add picture
#56
Brilliant! Thanks for the info. Looks like the "e" will not capture codes, so the II is the better option. I'm going to give this second dealer a shot before I spend the $150 for one. Looks like a pretty handy product though and might just pick one up to have for future auto's. Looks nice and clean where you mounted it.
I'll report back after dealer #2 has finished with it.
I'll report back after dealer #2 has finished with it.
#57
Brilliant! Thanks for the info. Looks like the "e" will not capture codes, so the II is the better option. I'm going to give this second dealer a shot before I spend the $150 for one. Looks like a pretty handy product though and might just pick one up to have for future auto's. Looks nice and clean where you mounted it.
I'll report back after dealer #2 has finished with it.
I'll report back after dealer #2 has finished with it.
#58
ok...wasn't the thermostat that was throwing the code. This is what the tech wrote on my paperwork:
"I performed a short test with the ISID and found code 3225 DMTL Leak Diagnosis Pump, short to B+, I tested all wiring from the DMTL pump connector A60004 to DMTL Pump connector X1714, I found all wiring to test good at this time, I found that the DMTL pump was faulty, I replaced the DMTL pump, I performed Test 1214 after installing the new pump and found no problems at this time."
I asked the SA if this was a common issue for the CM and he said no. I also asked if the thermostat issue is resolved for the 2012 build and he thinks so. He hasn't seen the thermostat failing for the 2012 yet.
One more thing, what is a DMTL Pump?
"I performed a short test with the ISID and found code 3225 DMTL Leak Diagnosis Pump, short to B+, I tested all wiring from the DMTL pump connector A60004 to DMTL Pump connector X1714, I found all wiring to test good at this time, I found that the DMTL pump was faulty, I replaced the DMTL pump, I performed Test 1214 after installing the new pump and found no problems at this time."
I asked the SA if this was a common issue for the CM and he said no. I also asked if the thermostat issue is resolved for the 2012 build and he thinks so. He hasn't seen the thermostat failing for the 2012 yet.
One more thing, what is a DMTL Pump?
#60
Our CM was built 01/2011 and delivered to us in 3/2011. We've had a bad HK amp at delivery, replacement of the turbo boost pressure sensor at ~6K miles, and a software update to make the stumble issue go away, but the thermostat hasn't been a problem.
#61
2nd day engine light on
This is my second day with the countryman first mini.....engine light on already...not a happy camper. Emailed my dealer no response yet. looked at the other posts...well haven't yet filled up the tank so it shouldn't be vapors; no loss of power in the engine; cooling fan operating after turn off; i did sense a slight hiccup in the engine once or twice but didn't think twice about it. This is so diappointing...I looked forward to getting this car so much and now I am beginning to think I made a mistake. I am afraid this is the first on many issues to come. joe cosmic blue
#62
I think DR61 is right...
From BMW site:
Diagnosis Module - Tank Leakage detection. The DM TL is located under the luggage compartment floor with the Active Carbon Canister. It slightly pressurizes the fuel system to detect tank leaks. Bad pumps often cause code p0442 (evap system leak).
From BMW site:
Diagnosis Module - Tank Leakage detection. The DM TL is located under the luggage compartment floor with the Active Carbon Canister. It slightly pressurizes the fuel system to detect tank leaks. Bad pumps often cause code p0442 (evap system leak).
#63
This is my second day with the countryman first mini.....engine light on already...not a happy camper. Emailed my dealer no response yet. looked at the other posts...well haven't yet filled up the tank so it shouldn't be vapors; no loss of power in the engine; cooling fan operating after turn off; i did sense a slight hiccup in the engine once or twice but didn't think twice about it. This is so diappointing...I looked forward to getting this car so much and now I am beginning to think I made a mistake. I am afraid this is the first on many issues to come. joe cosmic blue
#64
This is my second day with the countryman first mini.....engine light on already...not a happy camper. Emailed my dealer no response yet. looked at the other posts...well haven't yet filled up the tank so it shouldn't be vapors; no loss of power in the engine; cooling fan operating after turn off; i did sense a slight hiccup in the engine once or twice but didn't think twice about it. This is so diappointing...I looked forward to getting this car so much and now I am beginning to think I made a mistake. I am afraid this is the first on many issues to come. joe cosmic blue
#65
No Problem Found
My 3-month old countryman S beeped today and showed me a yellow engine light for the first time. I checked the handbook and it said I had to contact my dealer. I did that and my dealer replied immediately, suggesting someone will tow my car tomorrow to have a check. I agreed and felt like it had a huge problem for their overacting because the handbook suggested "you can continue your journey". After I checked all these posts here, I found it was a common problem for the countrymen. Later tonight I went back to my car in order to take a picture of the engine light, strange thing happened. The light went off! I drove a little while, accelerating and braking, just to check it. It went back to normal completely! I felt worried and decided to ask my dealer to check it anyway tomorrow. Will see the result soon.
#66
Took my CM4 to the dealer I bought the car from, they're 1 hour away, so I've been going to one closer by. They opened a case with Mini Nat'l right away as there were no fixes for this problem on record. The car has been recording the faults (the other dealer told me it didn't record anything) and the errors have been engine knocking, which they stated reduces the fuel supply and power the engine puts out. Mini Nat'l recommended replacing the sensor that detects this error though the local dealer seems less than optimistic that this will fix the problem. The dealer asked me to keep my gas receipts, which show proof of using high-test gas, which I agreed to do. Will pick up the car tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed, though I'm even less optimistic than the dealer at this point.
#67
Sorry I haven't updated since my last post. We were on vacation.
Took my CM in and it was the thermostat. They worked me into their full schedule and replaced my peeling trim without a request the day I called.
We drove from Ohio to Hilton Head and back without any issues. Here's hoping....
Took my CM in and it was the thermostat. They worked me into their full schedule and replaced my peeling trim without a request the day I called.
We drove from Ohio to Hilton Head and back without any issues. Here's hoping....
#68
I have had the yellow check engine light come on and then go off after about three days. However I did not notice a reduction in power. On the way to the dealer to get it looked at the light went out. The service tech told me the light comes on when there is an emissions problem. He told me it could be just that the gas cap was not tightened enough or something like that. I opted to just take it home and the light has not come on since.
I had the same issues recently... Light comes on, then went off in about 3 days of driving... Light was on when I took my MINI in for state inspection, the tech told me that it could be an emissions thing with the gas cap (nothing came up in error on the computer check). He said to remove the cap then replace it. I did that, there was a small release of fumes, and the light went off (like I said about 3 days later), but I had no power loss either. He told me if it does it again, to replace the gas cap, which I'm going to do soon. We'll see if this makes a difference. I use mid-grade (89) to premium (93-95), so I don't think it has anything to do with the gas I'm using...
#69
lindseybp
I had the same issues recently... Light comes on, then went off in about 3 days of driving... Light was on when I took my MINI in for state inspection, the tech told me that it could be an emissions thing with the gas cap (nothing came up in error on the computer check). He said to remove the cap then replace it. I did that, there was a small release of fumes, and the light went off (like I said about 3 days later), but I had no power loss either. He told me if it does it again, to replace the gas cap, which I'm going to do soon. We'll see if this makes a difference. I use mid-grade (89) to premium (93-95), so I don't think it has anything to do with the gas I'm using...
I had the same issues recently... Light comes on, then went off in about 3 days of driving... Light was on when I took my MINI in for state inspection, the tech told me that it could be an emissions thing with the gas cap (nothing came up in error on the computer check). He said to remove the cap then replace it. I did that, there was a small release of fumes, and the light went off (like I said about 3 days later), but I had no power loss either. He told me if it does it again, to replace the gas cap, which I'm going to do soon. We'll see if this makes a difference. I use mid-grade (89) to premium (93-95), so I don't think it has anything to do with the gas I'm using...
Last edited by shark715; 04-25-2012 at 02:35 PM.
#70
Warning light on, then off, then on, then off, etc. etc
Shortly after my '09 Mini S developed the infamous thermostat housing crack, at 50,703 mi., the check engine light came on, then went off. I replace the housing and the car was returned with the light on. My mechanic told me that it usually takes a few miles for the system to "reset" itself and not to worry. Well after a few days the light went off and after a few more days it come back on. This on again, off again has happened a few times, very frustrating. The car seems to be running just fine. I have had a slight hiccup of two, but the car remains strong. I've got an inspection coming up soon and I've got to get an answer to this problem. This car has been a bit of a problem. I really do love the car, it's a hoot, but it has been in the shop way more than any other car that I've owned. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
#71
Power Warning Light
DANG! So I got the yellow engine power light this evening. I was driving home from the gym and found myself in a position to go a little faster. I accelerated slowly rather than putting my foot in it! Then I slowed down, down shifting properly to a stop. When I went to take off, POW warning light! Acceleration is ZILCHO. I've her the car 1 month...
#72
#73
Yay, put me in this category! I had a Yellow CEL too back at 27k miles and lost boost. I immediately went into a shell gas station and pumped up some gas into the car. Bam the check engine light went away. Now I got one this morning at 47k miles and I'm shocked, no huge major mods yet and the car had no boost. Mind you, the yellow CEL only appeared on my little tach and not my middle speedometer. I didn't have enough time to diagnose it since I had to go into work but I will check it after I leave here today and then probably put some gas in, I know sometimes it could be cause of bad gas. Hopefully it's not the turbo, waste gate, or anything too big, that would suck:-(.
#74
#75
I just got that today, in our 2012 Countryman S ALL4. She did not have any issues before that, we have had her for almost a year, with 17k miles. I did notice a little stumbling at idle today when the light was on.
We had a 2011 Countryman (non-S). She had her thermostat replaced twice, but each time, the yellow temperature light came on along with the fan running all the time, along with the red temperature light eventually. The first time she was towed to the dealer, the second time we drove her in.
Our 2012 Countryman S ALL4 did not have any of the thermostat symptoms as our 2011 Countryman did, like the fan staying on with a yellow or red temp light. The 2012 Countryman S ALL4 had been much more reliable than our 2011 Countryman.
They won't be able to work on her until tomorrow, we will see what they find out. Meanwhile I am driving a 2013 Countryman S ALL4 loaner. I have to get used to the relocated window switches.
We had a 2011 Countryman (non-S). She had her thermostat replaced twice, but each time, the yellow temperature light came on along with the fan running all the time, along with the red temperature light eventually. The first time she was towed to the dealer, the second time we drove her in.
Our 2012 Countryman S ALL4 did not have any of the thermostat symptoms as our 2011 Countryman did, like the fan staying on with a yellow or red temp light. The 2012 Countryman S ALL4 had been much more reliable than our 2011 Countryman.
They won't be able to work on her until tomorrow, we will see what they find out. Meanwhile I am driving a 2013 Countryman S ALL4 loaner. I have to get used to the relocated window switches.