While I agree with that, I thought the underlying issue is that the clutch in the R60 is not up to the task of moving a heavier car like ours. With your explanation, I can only infer that you are saying everyone is killing their clutches by slipping them due to driver error, which I can't believe is the case for everyone here.

 

I wouldn't call it driver error, but its a different way of saying the same thing. If the driver (who often has driven a manual for many many years) is driving a clutch with no certain engagement point, they will be hunting for when to release the clutch. This vagueness naturally leads to the driver having to feather/slip the clutch (especially on inclines). As we all know this type of driving style kills clutches. So inadvertently yes, because of the vague engagement point on the Countryman the drivers are killing their clutches. A clutch stop absolutely eliminates the vague engagement point making it precise and predictable preventing the need to slip or feather even on inclines, and theoretically should stop killing clutches.

 

OK, I was under the impression that the clutches in the R60 were the same ones used in the Cooper and were failing because of the heavier weight of the Countryman. Knowing that it is just because of slippage during use is a sigh of relief.

 

I just installed my clutch stop from BMS. You will need to cut the post in half for the r60 and two shims is perfect.

The feeling is much better, and there is a very noticeable change in feel. It is amazing, I think I am more in tune with the length of the throw on this, and the shifts come easier and quicker.

Well worth the $15.

 

Ease of installation? I generally try to stay away from tools...

 

1) Look Behind Pedal for Rubber Plug (Eyes)
2) Remove Rubber Plug (Hands)
3) Cut Post in Half on Clutch Stop (Scissors)
4) Remove One Shim Leaving Two on Post (Hands)
5) Push into hole left by the stock plug (Hands)

 

Now THIS sounds like something even I can do! Thanks!

Just ordered the one you linked to on earlier post.

 

The 4 weel drive puts twice the amount of torque on the clutch.If you have only FWD the spinning of the tires "protects" the clutch.

 

Dropped off my '12 All4 S with 26k miles this morning. Couldn't even get a 1/4 of the throttle down before rpms shot up out of sync with road speed. I'll be curious to see how this is handled. I'm in warranty and have extended maintenance...

 

We had our clutch replaced under warranty about a year ago with a lot fewer than 26K miles . It is a vastly improved mechanical device that should have been in the car from day 1. We have the exact same car as you. If you need my VIN number in case the dealer hassles you, let me know and I will send it to you. In short, if they replaced mine, they should replace yours. The new clutch is SUPER! Don't let them sell you on having to pay for the new clutch. Good luck, my friend. Tom

 

Here is my post from about a year ago:

NO WAY the original clutch in our CM was anything but a serious design/engineering flaw. I drove the brand new car off the lot at Fairfield MINI in CT and driving the car up a ramp onto the LI Ferry to bring the car back to LI, the clutch started slipping and smelling like sh$*&^! The slipping and smelling continued until it failed. Both my wife and I are "mature" drivers who have driven manual transmissions for a combined 60 years and this car's clutch was flaky from day one. We are lucky it lasted 6500 miles of rather pampered driving. We count ourselves lucky to have had it totally FAIL and we will seriously ponder buying another MINI when this CM gets near the end of its warranty period because we seriously do not want to fall prey to a total MINI meltdown if/when another component on the car fails. . . . . . . out of warranty.

Did some quick math on this clutch and steering angle sensor/clockspring warranty job and without a warranty this would have cost between $4500 and $5000. Labor rate at Habberstad MINI is $160/hr. and they had to have put in 12 - 15 hours of labor. Sort of takes your breath away . . . . . but not in a good way. All on a $35,000 car with 6500 miles. Love the car but already looking at a non-MINI replacements two years down the warranty road.

 

Here is another post from after we go the car back:

02-26-2014, 09:47 PM
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Got car back yesterday with new twin mass flywheel, clutch and various other parts, fork levers and springs installed. Major new clutch parts are #21-20-8-606-067 and 21-20-7-595-577.

Car drives like a totally different animal. Dealer knew nothing about a service bulletin. My advice is to do what you have to do to fry your flimsy clutch to get MINI to install this replacement under warranty. Our build date was March 2012.

It's a big job so don't expect to see your CM for at least 4 or 5 workdays.

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

They didn't discuss cost with me when I dropped it off. I asked about doing a brake pad service that was due in 3k while it was there and they said if they did, it would have to be an out of pocket expense. So presumably they are not going to inconvenience me with monetary issues. Hopefully. I was never asked to authorize work and they were already doing the clutch job a few hours after drop off, so there's that.

They also didn't ask if I knew how to drive a manual transmission. I was fully prepped to educate them on my experience from learning to drive in one when I was 15 to unbroken ownership of manual transmission vehicles during the following 25 years. Of course I could just be a bad driver, but the 140,000 mile Honda at our house has its original clutch. Not sure I would have told them dad was a race car driver in the 60s though!

Anyway, I have a loaner F56 auto and it's fine, but it's not my CM.

 

UPDATE:
Got the call from the dealership (Passport in Alexandria, VA). Service woman said it was done and getting washed and would be done in an hour.

Some things to note:

1. Total job plus a couple of minor things I had them look at took from 9:15am Monday drop off until Tuesday (today) 4pm pickup--including wash.

2. Definitely no charge to me and it was covered under warranty. I didn't have to ask or argue this point at all. I simply brought it in and said it's slipping. She said if there was going to be a charge, she'd have let me know up front.

3. I'll update with the results of the new clutch when I get the car back as well as note the part numbers used. For what it's worth though, the pre Nov '12 clutch parts have been discontinued as far as I know. RealOEM lists them as "ended".

 

Here's my update after picking up the car...

The clutch engages about 1/4 of the total pedal travel from the floor. I suspect this may change slightly as it breaks in, but it's much better than 1/4 from the top like it was with the old clutch.

The whole thing was totally covered under warranty and DID show half a dozen parts, including the clutch part ending in 067. I didn't bring the paperwork with me.

I confess it was so drastically different from driving a dead clutch and then an automatic F56 that I stalled as I tried to pull away the first time. And the second.

I'm more used to it now, but still shift a little late and have knocked some gear teeth around because I'm not expecting the clutch to engage as early as it does.

After break in, we'll see how it handles more abouse and hills.

 

You need to install a clutch stop man. Costs $10 and 5 minutes to
install. Fixes the dead space travel in the countyman clutch making it shift perfectly. Get it before you destroy your new clutch.

 

Manual gearboxes, the shifting and feelings, are here in Europe common. Most clutch problems are on the other side of the pond. Certainly a turbo engine (torque) and fwd are
not ideal circumstances for novices.

 

Today my clutch went off.So next week i have to replace it.I have 47.000 km and the car is second hand.I have it 4 months now and there were always problems with the clutch.Can you inform me if the clutch of the Countryman S All4 is the same with R56 S?(i know that is the same with CM S).I m going to buy probably the Valeo clutch which costs less than Luk(OEM)and does the same job.

 

Does it install at the TOP of the travel? seems like a bad idea given my experience with clutch master cylinder design.

Anyway, the problem I'm having may not be the newness of the clutch but I think something that was done to the shift mechanism when they replaced everything. The side-to-side movement is no longer smooth and spirngy. It's more notchy and sticky.

When I shift out of reverse, the lever sticks about half way back to the rest position. It will stay there by itself. Sometimes it also requires extra force to get past the leftward resistance spring to get to reverse too. It also does this to a lesser extent going from the rest position to the 3rd/4th position--feels sticky and requires extra effort.

I plan to ask about it next time I'm taking it in (for brakes in < 3k).

 

Our mini's currently in the shop getting it's clutch done as well.

 

Unfortunately my car(European)doesnt have a Rubber Plug Behind the Pedal,so i cant install the clutch stop i have bought!!
Any ideas??

 

67k mi on mine and I just started feeling some weirdness in the clutch on heavy accelleration (both from a stop, and in higher gears). Brought it to my local dealer for a checkup. I went home with a rental (f56 LOVE IT!). No questions asked, he said it seemed normal to the tech, but they were going to replace it anyway just in case. Warranty. Love my MINI.

I am hoping the new clutch fixes the vague catch point...feathering from a stop is a PITA.

 

Scott,

Was this covered under an extended manintenance warranty, extended regular warranty or did they cover it out of warranty because it is an known issue

 

I can’t say what warranty covered it as I have maint. & another warranty. It was not said to be a “known issue”. I can tell you, however, that my car shifts AMAZING now, and My MPG improved on the way home as well!

 

Cut post in half. Half of it's lenght?