I am still assessing the damage to see what I can repair...but here goes.
My kid has a 13' countryman S....great car, 55k miles.
She was leaving school yesterday, which has a traffic roundabout, a really TIGHT one, upon the exit of the roundabout, she smacked the curb (with the wheels turned....imagine a CLOCK, she was headed counter clockwise headed to go straight at the '12', but, smacked the '1' of the clock-if that makes any sense). She called me in a panic after immediately pulling over. So I got there late last night (she was leaving school late for band practice) got the car into a parking lot...just went over this morning to see if I could prybar some things, but no luck.
Visible parts that need replacing:
-The control arm is totally bent backwards, done, needs replacing (big boomerang looking metal piece)
-sway bar link? seems ok, but the little Ball end bolt has snapped, ill imagine I can only buy the Rod
-I dont know name, but, the thick rod snapped, which I think is the steering rod? Tie rod?, that goes into a Boot (that one looks like a complicated part replacement)
Checked with dealer on these parts, they ran up to be almost $1000, but I see FCPro and Autohaus, they'd run me about 250-300$.
Other issues:
-the Shock has some dents in it, but its possible thats the design, didnt check the other side yet
-the front quarter panel is pushed back about 3mm, from the wheel being forced back, the door creaks when opening, I hope I can bang that back a bit
-the wheel is pretty gouged and scratched, I am hoping it doesnt need replacement
-the semi new goodyear tires have some cuts in tread as it was pushed back against inside quarter panel and the metal seams grinding against rubber....bummer
I guess my first question is, am I headed into a unattainable task in repairing myself? I suspect I can pull it off, but curious if anyone has had similar episodes
Sounds like maybe she smacked the curb much harder than the story would indicate... A good set of pictures would help with putting a parts list together.
Sounds like maybe she smacked the curb much harder than the story would indicate... A good set of pictures would help with putting a parts list together.
Oh of course, she faired better than my first accident as a 17yr old haha.
Waiting for flatbed tow truck to come, to get the car back home. Pics soon.
I just did the front suspension on my 2013 Countryman JCW this summer.
Yes, that thick rod that snapped is the tie rod. It has an inner and outer section, and yours is snapped on the inner part. Given the bending on the control arm, you'd be wise to replace them both in case the outer is bent. It's not a complicated repair, especially once the control arm is removed.
The stabilizer link is a simple repair and not an expensive part.
The control arm has a very tight fit where the upper ball joint sits in the subframe. If you aren't comfortable whacking the heck out of it with a sledgehammer, be prepared to heat it with oxy-acetylene...and still have to whack it. I managed to whack one out but had to pull the axle to get enough room to swing the sledge (pro tip...don't pull the axle if you don't know whether the transmission fill plug will open!). The rear rubber bushing where the arm sits is probably okay, but you'll want to check it for tears in case. If it's never been replaced, now would be a good time, though it's not strictly necessary if it's not torn.
No, the struts aren't supposed to have a dent in them. It's hard to tell how deep it is from the pics, but at a guess I'd say there's enough dent to affect its function. You'd have to test it to see if it can travel without binding (pull the whole thing out and bring it to a shop if you're not sure).
If you have collision insurance, you'd be wise to let the shop deal with it ($1000 in parts and probably the same in labour)...especially if you have to replace the wheel and tire which would take it up another $300-500. You will also need to get a professional alignment done afterwards, so budget another $100 or so for that.
If you have some mechanical experience and a garage to work in, go for it.
Most garages will let you buy parts for them to install; just make very sure you have the all the right pieces for your model or they get mad that your car is taking up hoist space while you find the right part and bring it in.
Yeah, she smacked that curb pretty good. The father in me would be questioning the story... If it was a tight round-about, the speed should have been relatively slow. That looks like a pretty solid higher speed hit to bend the control arm like that.
At the least, I see a new control arm, tie rod (inner and outer), and sway bar end link. Hopefully, the hub assembly is OK. That dent in the strut is actually stock for wheel clearance.
Yeah, she smacked that curb pretty good. The father in me would be questioning the story... If it was a tight round-about, the speed should have been relatively slow. That looks like a pretty solid higher speed hit to bend the control arm like that.
At the least, I see a new control arm, tie rod (inner and outer), and sway bar end link. Hopefully, the hub assembly is OK. That dent in the strut is actually stock for wheel clearance.
You're really hung up on the story aren't ya?
All that aside, I ordered the parts, I removed the tie rod nut, sway bar link and have the control arm almost out-but the ball joint thats attached to the main frame is a b*tch to get out.
Thanks for help.
I just did the front suspension on my 2013 Countryman JCW this summer.
Yes, that thick rod that snapped is the tie rod. It has an inner and outer section, and yours is snapped on the inner part. Given the bending on the control arm, you'd be wise to replace them both in case the outer is bent. It's not a complicated repair, especially once the control arm is removed.
The stabilizer link is a simple repair and not an expensive part.
The control arm has a very tight fit where the upper ball joint sits in the subframe. If you aren't comfortable whacking the heck out of it with a sledgehammer, be prepared to heat it with oxy-acetylene...and still have to whack it. I managed to whack one out but had to pull the axle to get enough room to swing the sledge (pro tip...don't pull the axle if you don't know whether the transmission fill plug will open!). The rear rubber bushing where the arm sits is probably okay, but you'll want to check it for tears in case. If it's never been replaced, now would be a good time, though it's not strictly necessary if it's not torn.
No, the struts aren't supposed to have a dent in them. It's hard to tell how deep it is from the pics, but at a guess I'd say there's enough dent to affect its function. You'd have to test it to see if it can travel without binding (pull the whole thing out and bring it to a shop if you're not sure).
If you have collision insurance, you'd be wise to let the shop deal with it ($1000 in parts and probably the same in labour)...especially if you have to replace the wheel and tire which would take it up another $300-500. You will also need to get a professional alignment done afterwards, so budget another $100 or so for that.
If you have some mechanical experience and a garage to work in, go for it.
Most garages will let you buy parts for them to install; just make very sure you have the all the right pieces for your model or they get mad that your car is taking up hoist space while you find the right part and bring it in.
Good luck whichever route you choose!
Wow, super insightful and helpful.
I have collision, high deductable though, $1000, hence the reason I just got the car home and am giving it a go at fixing, the stubbornness of the control arm main ball joint as you noted might change my path hahaha. Funny enough, I called dealer for estimate on the parts, and they wanted $1033 for all the parts, I ended up ordering from AutohausAZ for about $350 yesterday. After getting the car on jackstands, assessing damage, I think I can pull the repair off (minus alignment) and barring any unforeseen things once I get it all back together (camber, toe, bent parts I didnt see, etc...)....but, will get it all together, test drive, and might end up at the mini shop anyway haha.
Based on the door creaking and maybe it is just the picture, but the fender to door body line looks off as well, along with the major forces that bent the bolt-on parts, I'd be wary of the frame/attach points and such. Those could be off now as well.
Perhaps that $1K deductible to get it all sorted at the body shop would be the best path to completion. Those unknowns can REALLY add up.
Based on the door creaking and maybe it is just the picture, but the fender to door body line looks off as well, along with the major forces that bent the bolt-on parts, I'd be wary of the frame/attach points and such. Those could be off now as well.
Perhaps that $1K deductible to get it all sorted at the body shop would be the best path to completion. Those unknowns can REALLY add up.
Agreed-but, I just did the cardboard trick in the door, kept sliding in layers of cardboard, shutting door...another layer, shutting door, it pushed that front fender back and lowered the top/by hood area as well, and my front door didnt budge back, so were good there. I don't think there is any frame damage, the wheel was just slammed into the fender/wheel well, pushing that back 2mm or so, but, that's one repair done haha.
BUT, for the life of me, I can't get the ball joint out of the control arm, middle section......tried 2 different ball joint seperators and all they are doing is jacking up the threaded rod in there. Tried the tuning fork thing, but thats really no use. Kinda hosed, thats the only thing left to remove (parts don't arrive till tomm).
Pic is one of the ball joint tools, I bought the BIG kit one too, here, that "C" clamp interface doesnt fit around everything anyway.
Nightmare.
That could be pretty bent in there and take some brute forces beyond a puller designed to get regular parts separated. You're probably at the hardest part of the disassembling now.
That could be pretty bent in there and take some brute forces beyond a puller designed to get regular parts separated. You're probably at the hardest part of the disassembling now.
I thought about that too, but my common sense brain tells me an angular force would help loosen it hahaha, but, that separator in the pic, its not ideal as it doesnt open perfectly wide enough, but its getting bite, but ive cranked down on it so hard the metal levers are BENDING and not pushing the pin out, so I killed that idea.
Would all be somewhat easier in a shop with a lift haha, but I made the wise move to DIY (facepalm).
The factory procedure for removing the control arm involves screwing a special “mandrel” tool onto that stud and using a BFH to smack the joint loose. I suggest getting the car as high as possible and beating it out of there with a sledge.
The factory procedure for removing the control arm involves screwing a special “mandrel” tool onto that stud and using a BFH to smack the joint loose. I suggest getting the car as high as possible and beating it out of there with a sledge.
Thanks, if you have a pic of that mandrel, that would be helpful...ill assume its some sort of a nut with a chunky bashing end on it?
The castle nut that was on there, seems a bit fragile for bashing.
Thanks, if you have a pic of that mandrel, that would be helpful...ill assume its some sort of a nut with a chunky bashing end on it?
The castle nut that was on there, seems a bit fragile for bashing.
The "Tool" doesn't look like much, just a hunk of steel with some threads to match the stud. Here it is in action:
got a chunkier nut, flipped it.....man, super regretting not reporting to insurance and just suffering the consequences....3 days just trying to get a bolt loose!...
Saw off the control arm that was in the way of the tools-thought I was home free.
Nope.
put a jack under with pressure on the nut, tried the pickle fork with hammering AND leverage-nope.
no way I can get car high enough to get good hammering angle.
Seriously f*cked.
Could I call a mobile mechanic or something? maybe some sort of gnarly air hammer? I dunno, pretty mechanically inclined and this is really pissing me off. The last time I worked on this car was putting the bluetooth/carplay module in, I thought I was gonna lose my marbles then! hahahaha.
now that I saw'd out the control arm, I have a good angle, but, when opened all the way it seems like its PUSHING the nut/pin at a weird angle, I can keep cranking down on the nut that scissors that thing together, but, I stopped turning as nothing was POPPING loose, and I just was waiting for the tool to explode?
Perhaps that $1K deductible to get it all sorted at the body shop would be the best path to completion. Those unknowns can REALLY add up.
Hate to say I told ya so ^^^.
That frame hole area is probably damaged a bit even if you get this one out its risky to be just fine for the new assembly. With where you're at and limited room under, get as much of that clamp remover pressure as possible on it and then heat all around it to try and expand the metal (not the ball joint) and may bang on it to see it anything moves or frees up.
That frame hole area is probably damaged a bit even if you get this one out its risky to be just fine for the new assembly. With where you're at and limited room under, get as much of that clamp remover pressure as possible on it and then heat all around it to try and expand the metal (not the ball joint) and may bang on it to see it anything moves or frees up.
Oh well, that shipped sailed.
That huge separator, common sense tells me the way that works, its just pressing against itself, like pushing the BALL and the lower pin against each other, I imagine that kit that has larger adapter rings and what not to go on the outside of the upper ball, well, theres not enough room (thanks mini).
So the clamp remover thing (smaller black one) I just tried again, put a helmet and goggles on in case everything exploded hahaha, but, cranked and cranked, NOTHING, the arm on that tool is just bending (its a cheap harbor freight one. Autozone rents a nicer silver one, but, similar tool that might just do the same thing.....I suspect because the tool isn't optimal for this setup (the main frame tube is so big)...I think its pushing on the threaded nut end crooked, so I stopped....fun right?
I sprayed wd40, but maybe some better 'penetrating lube' might do something.
After more torching, FREEZE OFF, hammering...it popped.
It's out.
Wow.
Now the next problem, the square peg of the control arm end, will NOT come out of the rubber bushing, seen a few methods on youtube, but none are like my countryman-specifically there is no flange or lip to use a pry bar to sepearate from the bushing and arm. Is there a special tool for THIS? I mean why not buy more friggin tools for this job! haha
Pic below, I was trying to use this as a pry bar, but, it just stretches the bushing out a bit, but never releases.
