Drivetrain FMIC and cool IAT impact to HP, question
FMIC and cool IAT impact to HP, question
Okay, I am following another post and an interesting comment was made in that post and I wanted to expand on it.
The comment was about how the N18 engine reduces boost psi when the IAT iscool enough to produce the same HP with less boost
My question was why not produce more HP with lower IAT then reducing theboost to keep the HP at some factory value.
Question:
Is this true?
If the above is true it would seem there is a "magic" IAT at which the ECU starts or decides to reduces boost. Based on this the benefit ofcooling the IAT by a FMIC or CAI is minimized by this "reducingboost" feature Mini has decided to use
I always thought you would get a bump in HP in the winter and the winterwould be your max HP produced. Is there a way to keep the boost higher andproduce more HP when the IAT are cool/cold?
I hope my mid-day rambling makes some sense
The comment was about how the N18 engine reduces boost psi when the IAT iscool enough to produce the same HP with less boost
My question was why not produce more HP with lower IAT then reducing theboost to keep the HP at some factory value.
Question:
Is this true?
If the above is true it would seem there is a "magic" IAT at which the ECU starts or decides to reduces boost. Based on this the benefit ofcooling the IAT by a FMIC or CAI is minimized by this "reducingboost" feature Mini has decided to use
I always thought you would get a bump in HP in the winter and the winterwould be your max HP produced. Is there a way to keep the boost higher andproduce more HP when the IAT are cool/cold?
I hope my mid-day rambling makes some sense

It's true, since these are load based systems, boost will always vary depending on many factors. That's why its a bit tough to monitor.
One pull can net you a max psi of 13lbs, while the next pull can be just 10psi.
All this for the sake of efficiency.
These cars tend to taper off some psi in the midrange, and fall flat after ~5,500 rpm.
One way to over come this is a tune for methanol. Methanol will actually keep your intake temperatures below ambient(think refrigerator). With a tune tailored for this attribute, you can increase the boost while having the cooler air.
There's a drawback: nothing of the sort has been done on an n18 since they are more difficult to tune. It has been done on N14's.
The huge drawback: If tuned for methanol, you must always ensure you never run the system dry. Why? Because the tune is calling for this added fuel. Methanol not only drastically lowers your intake temps, but it raises your octane a few points which allows this increase in boost. It can also help with the valve coking issue since it washes the back of the intake valves.
If you you run out of methanol, your octane is no longer sufficient for the higher boost levels the tune is at(detonation occurs), and intake temps increase as well. The motor starts to run hot!
High boost+High heat+High CR = blown motor
One pull can net you a max psi of 13lbs, while the next pull can be just 10psi.
All this for the sake of efficiency.
These cars tend to taper off some psi in the midrange, and fall flat after ~5,500 rpm.
One way to over come this is a tune for methanol. Methanol will actually keep your intake temperatures below ambient(think refrigerator). With a tune tailored for this attribute, you can increase the boost while having the cooler air.
There's a drawback: nothing of the sort has been done on an n18 since they are more difficult to tune. It has been done on N14's.
The huge drawback: If tuned for methanol, you must always ensure you never run the system dry. Why? Because the tune is calling for this added fuel. Methanol not only drastically lowers your intake temps, but it raises your octane a few points which allows this increase in boost. It can also help with the valve coking issue since it washes the back of the intake valves.
If you you run out of methanol, your octane is no longer sufficient for the higher boost levels the tune is at(detonation occurs), and intake temps increase as well. The motor starts to run hot!
High boost+High heat+High CR = blown motor
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