buying a 2014 cooper from auction...2500
buying a donor cooper from auction...2000
having fun rebuilding it.......priceless

for everything else there is MC

 

I see. I thought they were selling for a lot more.

 

that I dont know. I was making a joke.
but when I buy mine, some times I get them relatively cheap amd some times there is a comoetition.

 

If it was a joke, it brings me to figure these wrecked Minis cost a lot more.... right?

I am just curious...... Do you think you can rebuild a project like that for under $10K if you have to buy a donor?

 

these number are approximate. It really all depends when you buy them and from which auction. For example. I picked a 2014 R57 with 13k miles shipped to my house for less than 6k. Luckily it only needed 3 modules cost around 600.
on the other hand i pick up a 2011 R60 with 21k for close to 8.5k shipped and paid 1k for modules. So it depends.
last week i missed on a 2016 R60 for 6k!

Are you planing to do something similar?

 

NEVER........ I restored 3 rare Classics to OEM showroom specs in the last 30 years and fortunately, I sold them with profit.

I have no interest investing money in late Mini projects.

 

................................

 

My SLK55 is in the shop having a supercharger installed (sorry, I couldn't help but mention that since I'm crazy excited to get it back), so I have a little extra room and was able to move the Mini inside for additional teardown. The more I tear it apart the more I find, obviously. Anyway, tonight I discovered I'll need a AC compressor, turbo, downpipe, water pump, o2 sensor, and heat shields. The part costs are really getting up there.

Do you guys think I should do some performance upgrades while I've got it apart? It shouldn't cost much more than stock to upgrade, and might even help with resell. What says you?

I heard you guys like pics, so here you go.

Cooling system removed as well as hood and battery.


The only body damage to the car seems to be minor sheet metal on the passenger side. It's paper thin, so straightening will be cake.


Frame rails are straight as an arrow.



Crushed downpipe.


Broken AC Compressor.


Broken turbo housing at the wastegate.


Radiator, fan, etc removed.

 

Here's the current parts list if anyone is interested:

 

The donor Mini arrived today. I picked up a 2012 MCS with 29K miles for $1,950, but after fees and shipping I'm into it for around $3,200. However, if the engine and tranny are good in the R59, I'll be able to sell the low mileage engine and tranny from the R56 as well as other parts to cover the entire cost. That's the only way I'm getting out of this hole.

Hit me up if you're interested in the bare long block (no turbo or accessories) or tranny (manual). I'm not messing around with parting anything else just yet.

Time to get to work. I'll report back once I have the engine in the R59 running. I would be nice to drive it around the block to gain the motivation to did in deeper.

 

Nice. nice...would be easier for you to just swap the nose instead of picking parts and moving them over?

 

It sounds possible, but I'd rather not leave it fully intact due to it being so cumbersome. I've already removed the radiator support and grille, and plan on pulling the bumper cover tonight. That should drop the weight a little, plus I think it will be easier to handle the crash bar versus the bumper when removing/installing the front end.

I'll still need to drain the coolant, disconnect coolant, AC lines, and fog lights before I can separate the clip. Hopefully that's all there will be to it.

After that I'll start transferring mechanical parts to the R59. Damn, what have I gotten myself into?

 

Pulled both front clips tonight. I'm pretty certain you have to pull the bumper cover in order to separate the clip from the car during service mode. Otherwise you can't reach wiring disconnects for the horn, fogs, ambient temp sensor, and in-tank pump for the washer reservoir.

Tomorrow I'll try to transplant the intake manifold, TB, intercooler, downpipe, o2 sensor, and about twenty other things. Anyway, I know it looks like a mess below, but its not as sick as it looks. I'm on it like a duck on a Junebug.

 

Amazing you have to do the job twice by dismantling and rebuild.

Did you checked if the hood is the same on a Coupe/roadster? Just asking because the windshield is different.

You may have budgeted some serious money for a body shop to repaint everything before assembly.

 

According to RealOEM.com, the hood is the same as the '12 R56, which is the donor. I did find out today while swapping parts that I'll need an AC hose, and the cowls, since the R56's are different.

As for profitability, this one is more for experience and fun than profit. It's winter and I'd rather wrench than waste away on the couch.

The '14 R59 in clean condition, 52K miles, and with a clear title in Nashville it is currently selling for around 15K private party and 18K at the dealer according to Edmunds.

 

You going to bring it to MOTD?

 

When are you guys running the Dragon? If the Mini isn't done, would I still be welcome in my Fiesta ST?

 

I won't say anything.

www.minisonthedragon.com

 

Finally got around to pulling the motor. Now it's time to strip the accessories and separate it from the tranny.

 

You are doing pretty well and fast on both cars at the same time. Do you foresee any structural damage you may have to deal with that may cause body panels alignment problems?

Since the donor is white and your car is red, your $600 budget for bodywork and paint seems really low but maybe you expect to do it yourself.

 

The only structural damage I would expect in this situation is one of the front frame rails. I've inspected them and they're fine. The passenger fender has some minor bends in the engine bay, but nothing that can't simply be straightened out. I fully expect everything to bolt back up fine with factory gaps when it all said and done.

You've got a good point about the paint estimate. That number is likely on the conservative end, but I'm not concerned. I'll definitely post up the actual cost when it's all said and done though if you'd like. I do this as a hobby, but I don't mind a little profit to go with the fun.

 

So, my understanding is you will cut out from the firewall to install the donor front assembly to have the front end straightened and leveled to specs. I am amazed you are doing this with so few tools in a very limited space.


It is a good move. The right front tower is collapsed and better to be replaced with the entire donor front clip welded back in place. Just make sure the welding job will be done by a certified professional welder.

 

Dude, what are you talking about? I'm not cutting or welding anything. You make it sound like the car is going to crab down the road due to some minor bends. Seriously, you'd actually cut on this car?

By "tower" I first thought you meant the strut towers, but they are both perfect. However, there are two tabs, one on each strut tower that bolts to the radiator support. The one on the passenger side needed straightening, but I've already done it (arrow on right).

I still need to work on the sheet metal in the left arrow. Very minor IMHO. I'll get my local body shop to tweak them both if necessary.

 

If I were you (and at some point I actually was. I swap a 2011 to a 2012 engine and tranny together one piece), I would carry the whole engine and tranny together and swap them. your new car would have the lower mileage assembly and you reduce buying those one time use items and reduce time and torquing bolts errors.

at any rate...good job and keep going, temps are getting better outside

 

I may still have to do what you advised, since I don't have the car in a condition where I can start the motor and test it. If the motor is fine, I'll sell the 29K mile setup on either Ebay or CL. I wouldn't feel comfortable selling the R59's motor or tranny without testing them first.