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Did you do all of that coding in NCS Expert? If so did you post it in the NCS Expert for dummies thread? Not sure if I got the names and titles right, but it would be helpful to others who might try this.
Sorry for the book below, but I think this all needs to be stated.
First, I should mention, I didn't just decide I was going to start coding. There is no "Easy Button" with NCS Expert/Dummy. I can't tell you how many hours of research I did before I did anything about two years ago (speedometer correction), and again the last couple weeks before attempting this. I did have help from a NAM member but, I tried not to burden him too much. I want to give him thanks but, I am not putting his username as I don't want him bombarded with questions.
Second, a lot of the resources that were available a couple years ago and no longer available. Here is a post from another forum: "End of Standard Tools & SP-Datens Due to recent legal letters/actions we are no longer offering BMW Standard Tools or SP-Datens packages/downloads.
The Mega links were taken down by Mega in relation to these legal letters/actions. We had no control over them being removed as our Mega account that was responsible for the links was also permanently banned from the platform.
Please do not ask us where to find the package(s) or ask us questions about it. We simply can't and won't answer them.
As everyone knows, it was never our software to distribute, we were not the developers of it, we always just provided it and kept it up for the community as we always felt it was our responsibility to make it easily accessible to people who wanted/needed it and without charging people for it."
I think this is do to ncs-expert.com, which is a pay for service to get the apps and daten.
Third, the NCS Expert/NCSDummy thread here on NAM doesn't have the views or following it used to.
I did it with NCS Expert. I didn't do a step by step. There are plenty of threads on how to modify your VO (Vehicle Order). I should mention, there are multiple ways of doing the same thing in NCS Expert, similar to any computer function (Copy/Paste for example right click copy or use keyboard shortcut CTRL+C). Not every example is using the same method. Some are just wrong. Most of the best instructions that I found were on Bimmer forums (E series is very similar to our Mini's)
As a disclaimer, I am by no means and expert. I have been able to muddle my way through it. If you are wanting to do some coding, start by researching and reading the NCS Expert/Dummy threads. I as it has been some time since I did the initial research, I believe the better Bimmer forums are listed throughout those threads.
Even though I couldn't get it to work (still not sure why) I would recommend Bimmergeeks Protool. If you can get it to connect and read, it does all that NCS Expert does with a much smaller learning curve and easy user interface. I purchased their Master License and Expert K+DCAN cable. Since I couldn't get the App to read my VO, I requested and received a refund for the license (had it less than 30 days). I hung onto their cable as it does have faster communication. If going wireless, the only Bluetooth Device that works with their software theirs. Personally, for coding, I didn't want wireless. For reading/clearing codes I feel it is fine. If I were to go wireless, I would recommend the Thor adapter (I purchased it from ECS). It has more versatility for other apps and faster communication.
Only downside to Protool is there help is via Facebook or email. Facebook help is hit or miss, not sure if the answer is correct or not unless it is from one of the admins. Unfortunately, after I posted several screenshots from things the admin quit replying. I went to the email route and that took on average 24 hours for a reply, if I got one. I wish they had a forum. One thing I like about NAM is you can search easily. Also, after reading several post you learn quick who is giving good advice and who is taking a stab in the dark.
If you want to dabble in it, I would be happy to help you but, this would be via private messages. This is how the other member and I did it. It isn't always instant replies as this is a favor not a service.
BTW, coding isn't "Greek" to you... It is German. All the coding software is in German with some having English translations.
I am really liking the way it is driving. I think the Koni reds and the Powerflex bushings really tightened things up. Also, I don't have all the clunking noise I did previously on the bumpy road to my house.
Upgrades that I did while repairing:
Struts/Shocks/bushings (Koni Red and a complete set of Powerflex all the way around)
Aero body kit from donor car
Gloss black Aero trim with GP2 diffuser
R112 rims from donor car (new Conti extreme contacts)
Xenon headlights from donor car
LED Union Jack smoked tail lights
LED smoked side marker lights.
Added Union Jack to back side windows
New hood and trunk MINI badges and some other small chrome trim pieces that needed replaced.
Last edited by DogfaceSGM; Oct 10, 2024 at 09:03 AM.
There is a thread here on NAM about the Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINI shock replacements and most people note how poor the OEM MINI shocks are compared to almost any other shock brand (Koni, Bilstein for example) and the major improvement in both ride and handling they found by replacing those shocks. So, you are in good company thinking that the Koni shocks improved things. The bushings are also a big help.
Well, the stock originals has 86,000 on them so it was time. The new bushings got rid of some of the torque steer and all of the car wanting to jump when I hit a bump mid curve. I have one on my daily commute that if you didn't have your hands on the wheel when you hit it, you would end up in a farmers field. Now, it is just a normal bump.
I did have my gear shift **** pop off again today. I think it is coming off too easy. No grunt or hard yank, just pull and POP! I took the one off the donor car and stripped it down to the center plastic part and the weight ring. Yes it was a JCW shifter but both the boot and the **** had seen their better day. I might make my own **** at work using steel, turn the inside on the lathe, form & polish the outside followed by a clear coat and epoxy it to the guts of this one. At a minimum if it is the outer clip, I have a spare to replace it with.
BTW, I am going to do a sun strip (brow) on the front windshield also. Too big of gaps between the visor and the mirror. I get blinded every morning on my way into work on a road that runs Northeast. I either have to do a "Detroit lean" or kiss the window to get the sun out of my eyes.
Last edited by DogfaceSGM; Oct 11, 2024 at 05:14 PM.
Had my military weekend in South Charleston, WV. Went down on Friday, returned today. They have a bunch of idiots in the parking lots that think hey are a race track. Had one pull out in front of me. I had to swerve to avoid hitting him and curbed it. Sooooo pissed!
Then to add salt to the wound I had a speed related faint knocking noise from Athens, OH to home about a 3.5 hour drive. At 75 MPH it sounded like a helicopter was hovering by me. It sounds like it is coming from the drivers side and I curbed the passenger. I am not sure if it is the wheel bearing or CV Joint. Think I am going to replace both and be done with it.
Dogface, do you have centering rings on those wheels? If not I would highly suspect that even if it just started, cheap insurance too. Check lugs for tightness too. Whatever it is it's still better than a blown head gasket...
Damn those were really nice looking wheels too, didn't you just paint them?
Yes, I had them stripped and painted them, that was part of my whole project. They turned out great too.
I didn't stare long as the longer I looked at it the more I got pissed.
Started tearing into it last PM. Lugs were tight. There is quite a bit of play on the driver side inner CV joint. I have not quite a 1/4 inch movement forward and back or up/down. This isn't travel in/out of the tranny. The outer has a newer boot so I am thinking there was an issue there with the previous owner/owners. I bought it with 38,000 miles on it, it currently is around 92,000. The wheel bearing are being done as a preventative. I also have a small leak on the right side of the tranny by the output shaft. Guess I will be getting that taken care of now as well.
Ugh! Sorry about the wheel. That is a style I really like.
It must be a right of passage to do that to new wheels. I curbed a wheel on my JCW shortly after getting it and before that, I curbed one of the Holie wheels I got for our R50 that I had picked up used but in mint condition.
The paint on the rims has held up well over the 1st 3000 miles of having it back on the road.
I do have one MAJOR blemish, it is actual curb rash. A month ago I was in Charleston, WV for my military duty. I was in a shopping center area that had one road throught the middle of it. A guy pulled out in front of me and I had to swerve hard right to avoid coliding. Curbed it HARD. I was PO'ed something fierce. Here is the ugly of it.
Next Spring I will clean them all up nice and do some touch up on it. I hate it as I think they looked better than new.
Sorry, replying to how the paint would hold up and didn't realize I had posted a pic already.
Man that's a real bummer Dog, especially after all the work you put into painting those rims. Could have been worse though, like Eddie said, looking forward to the fix.