R56 Clutch not fully disengaging with the pedal on the floor
Clutch not fully disengaging with the pedal on the floor
I've found a job again so I'm back, but I think the clutch in my R56 JCW is going out a bit earlier than I hoped. Symptoms include audible clatter/squeak unless the pedal is held at a specific spot in its travel, recently joined by an audible buzz/squeak at speed which a tiny touch on the pedal will quiet (often for good). Shifts are getting very balky, and getting it into first or reverse can be nearly impossible with the engine running. Can creep in gear as well. It's gotten a lot worse just in the last couple of days, so I have two questions:
1. Is the whole clutch going to have to be replaced or is there a failing part like a throwout bearing that can be replaced individually? (Don't think I can afford the upgraded clutch I wanted yet and didn't want to have to buy another stock clutch before then.)
2. Is there something that can be adjusted as a stopgap to keep the car driveable until I can get it in at a shop?
1. Is the whole clutch going to have to be replaced or is there a failing part like a throwout bearing that can be replaced individually? (Don't think I can afford the upgraded clutch I wanted yet and didn't want to have to buy another stock clutch before then.)
2. Is there something that can be adjusted as a stopgap to keep the car driveable until I can get it in at a shop?
I've found a job again so I'm back, but I think the clutch in my R56 JCW is going out a bit earlier than I hoped. Symptoms include audible clatter/squeak unless the pedal is held at a specific spot in its travel, recently joined by an audible buzz/squeak at speed which a tiny touch on the pedal will quiet (often for good). Shifts are getting very balky, and getting it into first or reverse can be nearly impossible with the engine running. Can creep in gear as well. It's gotten a lot worse just in the last couple of days, so I have two questions:
1. Is the whole clutch going to have to be replaced or is there a failing part like a throwout bearing that can be replaced individually? (Don't think I can afford the upgraded clutch I wanted yet and didn't want to have to buy another stock clutch before then.)
2. Is there something that can be adjusted as a stopgap to keep the car driveable until I can get it in at a shop?
1. Is the whole clutch going to have to be replaced or is there a failing part like a throwout bearing that can be replaced individually? (Don't think I can afford the upgraded clutch I wanted yet and didn't want to have to buy another stock clutch before then.)
2. Is there something that can be adjusted as a stopgap to keep the car driveable until I can get it in at a shop?
This job is expensive, even if just reaplcing the much needed parts only. You could get away with a Valeo clutch disc and reuse your DMF flywheel but depending on the miles on your car, it may not last.
Kind of sounds like a throw out bearing, but it could be the pivot point failure. The issue here is, you mind as well do a full clutch replacement while you are in there and address any possible future issues you are going to end up with. Im replacing my clutch with a Clutchmasters FX350 but you should be good with a FX100 or FX250, it will come with a better throw out bearing. Powerflex sells a stainless steel pivot point. Get a new clutch fork and a Rear Main Seal too.
This job is expensive, even if just reaplcing the much needed parts only. You could get away with a Valeo clutch disc and reuse your DMF flywheel but depending on the miles on your car, it may not last.
This job is expensive, even if just reaplcing the much needed parts only. You could get away with a Valeo clutch disc and reuse your DMF flywheel but depending on the miles on your car, it may not last.
ECS Tuning has some more affordable options from SBC, have you heard anything good or bad about them? And throwout bearing is what I suspected too, because it doesn't feel like it's slipping.
Getting paid every 2 weeks sucks.
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