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R56 P13C9 Code

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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 05:04 PM
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P13C9 Code

I hope someone can help me. I just picked up a 2013 Cooper S for my daughter. 118K. I wanted something mechanically sound and that we can work on together and bring new life back into, but with a good motor and trans. It was serviced before I bought it. Drove 60 miles home and no issue and around the neighborhood a few times the next day. Then got a check engine light (yellow half engine symbol). I put my reader on it and am getting a P13C9 Code. I cleared it once and drove it fairly hard no issue. When my daughter puts around the neighborhood it came back. Any Ideas? I hope I did not make the wrong call on this one? It was service often through the years.

Also, I don't remember that load of hum from my clubman tires. Is that the runflats?!?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 03:40 AM
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I think I had that code before, and it was related to the vanos solenoid for the exhaust cam. I ended up replaceing both intake and exhaust solenoids, and had no issue after that.

Tires can make all sorts of noise, whether they are run flats or not. If they are old and worn, might be time for some new ones.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
I think I had that code before, and it was related to the vanos solenoid for the exhaust cam. I ended up replaceing both intake and exhaust solenoids, and had no issue after that.

Tires can make all sorts of noise, whether they are run flats or not. If they are old and worn, might be time for some new ones.
Thanks! I am debating changing them out right now. How difficult of a job is it? I want to get another 50k out of this car. This is not a cam shaft issue then? Should I be doing the timing chain? No rattle. I hate seeing these cars being parted out.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 05:18 AM
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Its not too bad of a job. Disconnect electrical connector, remove a screw, pop out the solenoid, reinstall new one in reverse.

Here is the procedure:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

I used two of these:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

Best to have a couple extra screws on hand, too:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...367605225~oeb/
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
Its not too bad of a job. Disconnect electrical connector, remove a screw, pop out the solenoid, reinstall new one in reverse.

Here is the procedure:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

I used two of these:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

Best to have a couple extra screws on hand, too:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...367605225~oeb/
Thanks! Going to order them now. Thinking about changing the oil again in case the person I bought it from was not truthful. What are your thoughts about adding engine flush on these cars before I do it? Also, do you think I am safe on the cam shaft being OK?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 06:42 AM
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I wouldn't worry about the camshaft
 
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Old Jul 27, 2021 | 09:04 AM
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Jason Cornelius
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I have run LiquiMoly engine flushes on an n14 and n18. I have run them for 15 minutes, drained, LiquiMoly back in with purflux filters, oem filter without mini logo. On my n14 I do it every 10k with 1 or 2 regular oil changes in between. I just did the n18 and she isn’t even close to the 1k mark yet, but said her oil is full and clean still. I just changed my oil at the 3k mark, she was getting dark and I got a road trip planned this weekend with the wife. So instead of hearing her complain about burning oil smell, and knowing I’m going to put at least a 1000 miles on her, just easier to drop it and start fresh, wife’s letting me have some dragon time this weekend.
 
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