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I am going to share a story of a ''08 N14 Cooper S. Bought a non running car with 111K miles that was said to have a blown head gasket for $500. Simple repair for me, build cars, engines transmissions for high hp cars all day. During disassembly, turbo was broke, valves warped and engine had been oil starved when a previously broken timing chain guide lodged in the oil pickup tube. So, the market prices around here for high mileage used engine was crazy. Choose to rebuild, head was ultimately cracked too. I disassembled engine, replaced bearings,rings honed cylinders and bought a reman head. Knowing the poor engine design and the intent was to build a cheap 1st car for my grand daughter, replaced timing and oil pump chains, vanos sprocket, vanos soleniod and timing chain tensioner (remember oil starved previously), gaskets and all TTY bolts. Fab'd a PCV catch can to help with oil coking of DFI type head. New turbo, fixed poor previous repairs from other shops. Injectors were clogged too - new injectors bought, then throttle body had to be replaced, cam sensor goes out, footwell module fuel pump relay went bad after rebuild (fixed that with new relays, no replacement board was needed). Car runs, 50 miles later transmission has famous 2nd gear ratio fault, replaced transmission with LKQ ebay 55K version, tweaked trans pressures overall and at each shift valve (yes, I do these things to other trans too) trans is used in many cars up to 350 hp(different clutch hubs), good luck finding reliable info tho. Replaced shifter assy due to broken emergency pull broke. At this point I have no faith in this car design, its one issue after another, car has had every common defect of the N14 version except high pressure fuel pump or electric steering. I can't find another local person I don't know personally that is willing to pay for parts total I have in the car. Much less over a hundred hrs of my free labor. I understand some of you love these cars, if you remove the personal side and look at the lack of engineering in the design I don't understand the desire. My personal experience is if you have the time, desire, money and/or knowledge do want you want. I have refused to sell the car to friends or family due to many defects this car has had. It may be a worst case example, but my research and every issue is somewhat common on these cars, is to sell and move on to a better design. Since I have access to a high dollar scan tool I was able to pull this off with only a few specific tools (cam timing). But, I had all the other expensive tools already. Also, the cam timing procedure allows for too much varation in timing. Recheck it at least 2/3 times to ensure you have everything correct. I build 1000 hp plus engines we would never build an engine with this allowed cam timing variable Good luck fitting a degree wheel in a engine within a car. Hope this helps someone, while I am not complaining, I have turned down many requests to repair local mini's due all of this. Hard to make money on a repair that once is done another subsystem fails and customer is upset again and you spend valuable time explaining it over and over.
Once again, I use to own a 2008 w/the N14 engine. Though the N14 has had issues, which I've never encountered, I made sure to go w/the N18 this time w/a 2011+, preferably a 2013, which is suppose to be a much better engine, though obviously, not perfect. I also like the R56 body better than the new F56's.
In my case, the only issue w/my present MCS was w/that plastic coolant tube in the back of the engine failing. It's certainly a bad idea to use plastic w/coolant, but you look at just about all vehicle engines now-a-days, they all have plastic components. Then when I saw the vice grip teeth marks on the CAM's and non-Mini bolts, that made me nervous.
In your case, it sounds like your Mini was poorly care for, which isn't the vehicles fault, but the previous owner's.
I would put in a new motor if youd like to keep the car for a long time. Mini occasionally has specials on complete motors with 2 year warranty. That's what I did when mine blew at 140+k miles.
+1, did the same (new motor from Mini). Mechanic said there were many casting updates since the original one was manufactured in 2009.
2012 JCW N14 - Original motor failed and I had new engine (N14) installed. Bad fuel injector / piston failure. I had a great warranty at the time so the new engine cost $100.00
The car was in immaculate condition for the most part and still under mini warranty when I bought it. I take great care of the car and still had the engine failure!
Initially when I purchased my car I was bummed about the N14 I did not research enough. But I have no real complaints about it and the new engine seems to be fine. Yes Mini has it's quirks and the coolant tube is one of them! But when I bought the car I was aware of all of the nuances and I knew I was going to have an extended warranty so I was not too concerned.
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After i got it apart I can say it is carboned back up so it will be cleaned and I will be blasting it more often and may look at some other option like installing an OCC or see what other options there are to help prevent or at least slow down the build up.
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Can't beat walnut blasting to get rid of the build-up. In addition to a good OCC, consider running a Water Methanol Injection system. It won't remove any existing accumulation, but it will help prevent more from building up. A 50 - 50 mix will do the job, while saving a bit of money compared to using 100% methanol -- VP's M1 is about 8 - $9 per gallon. I'm using about 3 qts of mix for every tank of gas, depending on how much fun I've been having.
Ok Just wanted to give an update if anyone is interested.
I have replaced the burnt valve and cleaned all the carbon from everything, there was alot.
order a bunch of parts from ECS, head gasket and bolts, timing chain kit and a few other items to install later.
put all of it back together double checked the timing at least 3 times.
charged the dead battery but ended up jumping it to get it started but it started and there are no leaks or codes coming up and is very smooth running.
next step change the oil add some fuel system cleaner top off the tank with premium and when the weather gets better take it for a test.
overall it went well and did not take that long after I received the parts.
if everything is ok after some testing i will most likely get a tune, just stage 1 for now.
I did not think it was too bad. I just took my time and used the correct tools to lock the cams and the crank. I watched a few videos and read some of the forums and went for it.
the Bentley manual was not as detailed as i hoped but after reading it and checking other places I felt pretty confident and it worked out.
if you have any questions I can explain what I did.
Ok all up and running, I used the Carista app to check for codes since the torque app did not show any.
it cost 10 bucks but i feel it was worth it, Carista scanned everything and showed 40 codes, i read through them and there were odd ones like speed sensor and such. so i cleared all of them the only one that has stayed is the dreaded airbag light and code for the passenger seat sensor.
that i will hopefully take care of with NCS expert later.
After clearing al the codes and letting it warm up and moving it around no codes cam back other than the airbag. So far so good.
i have added the catch can but need to get the correct clamps for the hoses, and am cleaning the factory airbox but decided to play around with the air cleaner.
the factory air box will be reinstalled once i have it good and clean. so next is a fresh oil change and if the weather gets better a test drive.
Yeah, I always wonder about the physics there. The filter element of the stock airbox is huge - wouldn't be surprised is the area is even bigger than those cone filters. And the fresh air supply routing has roughly the same diameter as the intake-to-turbo piping... But I can see the butt-dyno argument.
This was just stuck together to be able to run it while the factory airbox is drying. other than being clamped on it is just hanging there no mount anywhere.
It is only about 50 in my garage and the airbox overall is drying ok but the lower section has all these nooks and cranny's that are not drying very quickly and I was getting restless and did not want to run it without any filter.
This filter is actually off my F150 I traded in a few months ago. I was surprised I had a bunch of parts laying around to stick it on there. but I would not drive it around like this lol
This was just stuck together to be able to run it while the factory airbox is drying. other than being clamped on it is just hanging there no mount anywhere.
It is only about 50 in my garage and the airbox overall is drying ok but the lower section has all these nooks and cranny's that are not drying very quickly and I was getting restless and did not want to run it without any filter.
This filter is actually off my F150 I traded in a few months ago. I was surprised I had a bunch of parts laying around to stick it on there. but I would not drive it around like this lol
you actually should be able to drive it around like that, you intake temp will go up, but you should be fine. This is a DDMWorks street intake, basically same thing you got going on, just make sure hose clamps are tight.
Yeah, I always wonder about the physics there. The filter element of the stock airbox is huge - wouldn't be surprised is the area is even bigger than those cone filters. And the fresh air supply routing has roughly the same diameter as the intake-to-turbo piping... But I can see the butt-dyno argument.
Considering how expensive those hot air intakes are, you're better off spending that on a bigger turbo....
This filter is actually off my F150 I traded in a few months ago. I was surprised I had a bunch of parts laying around to stick it on there. but I would not drive it around like this lol[/QUOTE]
It was a kit with a 4 inch tube and the filter has a 4 inch inlet, is was from a 2010 with the 5.4. i never had any issues with it on the F150 after it was installed it had better throttle response and the gas mileage went up slightly plus when you got on it you could hear it lol.
it was made to fit just inside the lower factory airbox and had a new metal upper airbox.
It was a kit with a 4 inch tube and the filter has a 4 inch inlet, is was from a 2010 with the 5.4. i never had any issues with it on the F150 after it was installed it had better throttle response and the gas mileage went up slightly plus when you got on it you could hear it lol.
it was made to fit just inside the lower factory airbox and had a new metal upper airbox.
I've had CAIs on various turbo and non turbo cars. They usually work great. But the Mini already has one.
Ok all up and running, I used the Carista app to check for codes since the torque app did not show any.
it cost 10 bucks but i feel it was worth it, Carista scanned everything and showed 40 codes, i read through them and there were odd ones like speed sensor and such. so i cleared all of them the only one that has stayed is the dreaded airbag light and code for the passenger seat sensor.
that i will hopefully take care of with NCS expert later.
After clearing al the codes and letting it warm up and moving it around no codes cam back other than the airbag. So far so good.
i have added the catch can but need to get the correct clamps for the hoses, and am cleaning the factory airbox but decided to play around with the air cleaner.
the factory air box will be reinstalled once i have it good and clean. so next is a fresh oil change and if the weather gets better a test drive.
thanks everyone for the input.
Hey there. Appreciate your posts. My wife has had her 07 since new. I think I'm getting into something like your experience. We are leaking oil and coolant, rough idle etc. Also talked to Sneed but price was very high. I may give the dealer a call for the factory new engine option.
Can you point me in the direction of the timing tools you used and any references?
The main issues are oil leaks on main seals and gaskets around the oil filter housing. Basically requires a front end removal and nearly $3000 in labor to get to that part of the engine. A local reputable shop did compression and leak heating and all seems ok there. I've decided to give this a whirl and do an overhaul as best I can while I have everything removed. Also going to drop the transmission and replace flywheel and install and LSD.
My main concern is the timing chain, belts, and needed timing tools.
Ok to answer a question from earlier the heat shield is aluminum diamond plate. i cut it out of an old truck tool box and shaped it myself. I am not sure if i will leave it on since i am concerned about melting the valve cover.
the timing tools I picked up from Amazon they were around $40 shipped and worked great. A Bentley manual is a must it had all the torque specs. And before I started I watched a lot of YouTube videos.
I was able to do all the work without putting it in service mode, the hardest part was getting some of the exhaust manifold bolts. in hindsight I wonder if I could have removed the head with the exhaust manifold on it since it was not that heavy.
and once i finished installing the timing chain I did turn it over by hand multiple times and checked the timing by reinstalling the flywheel lock and the camshaft locking tools.
Please feel free to contact me if I can be of any help I gladly will.
Hey there. Appreciate your posts. My wife has had her 07 since new. I think I'm getting into something like your experience. We are leaking oil and coolant, rough idle etc. Also talked to Sneed but price was very high. I may give the dealer a call for the factory new engine option.
Can you point me in the direction of the timing tools you used and any references?
The main issues are oil leaks on main seals and gaskets around the oil filter housing. Basically requires a front end removal and nearly $3000 in labor to get to that part of the engine. A local reputable shop did compression and leak heating and all seems ok there. I've decided to give this a whirl and do an overhaul as best I can while I have everything removed. Also going to drop the transmission and replace flywheel and install and LSD.
My main concern is the timing chain, belts, and needed timing tools.
Any guidance there appreciated. Cheers
How many miles on your car? It may be smarter to just put in a new motor...
How many miles on your car? It may be smarter to just put in a new motor...
107k. I thought about that but the motor prices are pretty steep. Called the dealer and got a $6300 quote for a new longblock. $3300 for just the cylinder head.
107k. I thought about that but the motor prices are pretty steep. Called the dealer and got a $6300 quote for a new longblock. $3300 for just the cylinder head.
I paid $3000 for a long block with valve cover, vacuum pump and vvt solenoid. That price is crazy. Shop around.
