So..I just purchased my new to me 2008 MCS. It came with a beast of a sub box. The trunk has a small dent on the inside where the plastic hit the box. The back seats didn’t fully lock in place. Lol. It was pretty funny. So the 1st thing I did was rip that bad boy out. Then the hunt for something to replace the bass. I found https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2s-1x12/

it fits right in the trunk pocket. Sounds great. I don’t need a full blown system. I plan on replacing my door speakers and be done. With this sub I get good bass and retain my tiny trunk. Lol


if I can find a better place for the amp you wouldn’t see anything.
fyi. I picked it up for $130. It’s on sale everywhere.

 

Since the box doesn't use all the width of the trunk: does the amp not fit to the side of it?

Personally, I would prefer the amp to disappear completely behind one of the side trims, where the stock amp (left) or digital radio (right) receiver are located from factory (as long as either of them is not there already, of course).

Your car has the right hand side trunk trim for cars equipped with a dab tuner and the left hand side trunk trim for cars not equipped with a stock amplifier, so either:
- a dab tuner is installed in your car and therefore an amp can only be fitted behind the left hand side trunk trim (meaning you need to also replace the left side trim cover with the variant that leaves space behind it) or
- a dab tuner is not installed and the space behind the right hand side trunk trim is available for an amp (a replacement trim cover is not required).

Either way: the effort required is minimal since wires already run to the back. You would however need to get:
- stock amp or dab tuner holder plate/bracket depending on which side the amp goes to (or find some other way to fasten the amp behind the trim cover)
- left trim cover variant for cars equipped with stock amp (if a dab tuner is installed and therefore the amp has to be placed in the left hand side)
- likely a different amp which is not as large in either width or length. I would recommend a class-D amp, since they draw less current, emit (much) less heat and usually are smaller than conventional amps.

I posted more detailed information (including a few photos and possible amp dimensions) here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4500494

and parts lists/installation instructions here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4500270
(you wouldn't need to remove rear seats and side interior trims since you already have wires running to the trunk).

 

Wow. Thanks for all the great info. I saw a few pics of others installing the amp in the side trunk, but I don’t have that space. I didn’t know there was another side trim option. I’ll definitely get one to hide the amp. I appreciate the help!

 

You're welcome! Hope you enjoy the install (you certainly will enjoy the more sorted and more useable trunk space).
:-)

By the way: if you get a really small sized amp, it may even fit in the available space behind the existing trim cover (right above the wheel arch, as visible in the last two pictures I posted in the other thread). It would save you from having to get the other trim variant. If you are happy with the power output of the KAC 748 you already have: there should be similarly powered class-D amplifier small enough to fit in there. Just make sure it is securely fastened.

Don't worry about access to the rear bulbs: removing the the whole rear light assembly is barely any work and allows much easier access to the bulbs (compared to threading your fingers through the trunk access). And if your stop light bulb sockets have slightly melted (like mine have), replacing the bulbs through the trunk access is not possible anyway.

PS.: The link to the dab bracket holder part in my post in the other thread was broken. It is working now.