This is what the service writer at the shop I brought my Mini is telling me after seeking more clarification on why they think my car needs a new long block.
Any ideas on how much stock I should put in this, or if I should just take the car home and pull the motor apart myself? I can't afford to ***** nilly throw a NOS motor in here and don't trust putting a used motor in either.

 

You might have one of those...



This is the engine of a fellow NAM member I rebuilt his engine. Not only that, the broken piece melted and scored the crankshaft which I also had to replace.









So, I think you can take the head off and assess the damage and generate an action plan.

 

Looks like some oil starvation issues on the bottom end combined with detonation of some kind in the combustion chamber. Nasty mess!

 

I had a piston ring landing go. I was running a k04 stage three tune though. Gave me a chance to go lower compression and forge the bottom end =)

 

I just finished rebuilding my 2007 at same miles. I have a JCW turbo and Alta stage one. I've been dyno tested to 239 HP. Just installed CP 10.5 to 1 pistons.

 

The lesson I learned with my rebuild is simple. The moment that shudder starts, shut the car down and check it out. Running a damaged piston with destroy the block and crank.

 

Before you go spending $8k on a new engine I would like to know how they think valve problems don't correlate with the timing chain.

If the car jumped time there is a chance that all 8 exhaust valves are bent.

If the car is out of time you will have disconcerning compression numbers and multiple other problems like no starts, hard starts, rough running, low power, and even internal damage.

I would tell them to do a leak down test and confirm where the compression leak is originating before trying to sell you a whole engine that you may not even need. Yes, they did one, but didn't tell you where the problem lays.

What are the compression numbers? And leak down % per cylinder?