R56 Brake Pads change question
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 814
Likes: 14
From: Uruguay
Brake Pads change question
Since 1 month ago I had a rear brakes warning light on.
And since more than 1 month I had the brake fluid warning light on too.
After checking the thickness on rear brake pad, I did decide to change the brake fluid and the 4 brake pads.
I moved to BrakeMotive ceramic brake pads.
On saturday the 4 brake pads where replaced on an indy shop and old brake fluid replaced with DOT4 Motul RBF600 (bleed on all wheels).
Brake disks in perfect condition, just a little resufarce on it for the new brake pads.
I was thinking in the bed-in procedure and the care about no hard braking the first miles to avoid crystalization.
My surprise was that when going to home, a soccer ball was in my way and I tried to stop the vehicle slowly without success. Brakes were working at 50% and not stopping the car at all.
Only full pressing the pedal many times I could get the car stopped.
I thought in the new brake pads and the bed-in procedure urgently in a near highway, without going to home.
Bed-in procedure improved the brake response but when parked at home I could see the front disk with the ceramic film on it (and hot) and the rear disks clean and totally cool (boths).
Additionaly, the handbrake not working, as there is not tension when using it to the top (almost vertical).
Yesterday I was doing the bed-in procedure again on the highway to check if it would be safe go into the city to the indy shop (many stops and avenues) thinking on air in the brake system or something done on the wrong way.
This morning when going to my job I could feel the car breaking so good, and after leaving the car on the garage, I could feel the 4 brake disks hot as the hell (rear and front) with my fingers, and the handbrake working OK on the 3rd click.
Explanation for this?
I don't trust on things solved by themselves ...
And since more than 1 month I had the brake fluid warning light on too.
After checking the thickness on rear brake pad, I did decide to change the brake fluid and the 4 brake pads.
I moved to BrakeMotive ceramic brake pads.
On saturday the 4 brake pads where replaced on an indy shop and old brake fluid replaced with DOT4 Motul RBF600 (bleed on all wheels).
Brake disks in perfect condition, just a little resufarce on it for the new brake pads.
I was thinking in the bed-in procedure and the care about no hard braking the first miles to avoid crystalization.
My surprise was that when going to home, a soccer ball was in my way and I tried to stop the vehicle slowly without success. Brakes were working at 50% and not stopping the car at all.
Only full pressing the pedal many times I could get the car stopped.
I thought in the new brake pads and the bed-in procedure urgently in a near highway, without going to home.
Bed-in procedure improved the brake response but when parked at home I could see the front disk with the ceramic film on it (and hot) and the rear disks clean and totally cool (boths).
Additionaly, the handbrake not working, as there is not tension when using it to the top (almost vertical).
Yesterday I was doing the bed-in procedure again on the highway to check if it would be safe go into the city to the indy shop (many stops and avenues) thinking on air in the brake system or something done on the wrong way.
This morning when going to my job I could feel the car breaking so good, and after leaving the car on the garage, I could feel the 4 brake disks hot as the hell (rear and front) with my fingers, and the handbrake working OK on the 3rd click.
Explanation for this?
I don't trust on things solved by themselves ...
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,037
Likes: 283
From: Melbourne, FL
IME you have to cycle the hand brake a few times to 'reset' it.
When the rear pads are replaced (assuming done correctly) the piston is turned while pressing to retract the piston and make space for the new, thicker, pads. The turning is due to the e-brake system ... typically the system is turned beyond what is necessary but the auto adjust will bring the system into proper alignment with a few cycles of the hand brake. I expect this and just cycle the brake b4 ever driving with new rear pads
In general I'm not a fan of "rapid break in procedures" .... this is necessary at the track but not at home. One simply should EXPECT reduced performance for the first 100 miles or so. This is exactly what the 'instructions' for my prefered pads say on the box (EBC) .... Am I wrong? Well let me ask you this: when you buy a new car (if you have ever) is the first thing you do after leaving the dealer 'bedding the brakes'? Or do you do what the owner's manual suggests ... take it easy on new tires and brakes until they 'break in'?????
When the rear pads are replaced (assuming done correctly) the piston is turned while pressing to retract the piston and make space for the new, thicker, pads. The turning is due to the e-brake system ... typically the system is turned beyond what is necessary but the auto adjust will bring the system into proper alignment with a few cycles of the hand brake. I expect this and just cycle the brake b4 ever driving with new rear pads
In general I'm not a fan of "rapid break in procedures" .... this is necessary at the track but not at home. One simply should EXPECT reduced performance for the first 100 miles or so. This is exactly what the 'instructions' for my prefered pads say on the box (EBC) .... Am I wrong? Well let me ask you this: when you buy a new car (if you have ever) is the first thing you do after leaving the dealer 'bedding the brakes'? Or do you do what the owner's manual suggests ... take it easy on new tires and brakes until they 'break in'?????
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 814
Likes: 14
From: Uruguay
IME you have to cycle the hand brake a few times to 'reset' it.
When the rear pads are replaced (assuming done correctly) the piston is turned while pressing to retract the piston and make space for the new, thicker, pads. The turning is due to the e-brake system ... typically the system is turned beyond what is necessary but the auto adjust will bring the system into proper alignment with a few cycles of the hand brake. I expect this and just cycle the brake b4 ever driving with new rear pads
In general I'm not a fan of "rapid break in procedures" .... this is necessary at the track but not at home. One simply should EXPECT reduced performance for the first 100 miles or so. This is exactly what the 'instructions' for my prefered pads say on the box (EBC) .... Am I wrong? Well let me ask you this: when you buy a new car (if you have ever) is the first thing you do after leaving the dealer 'bedding the brakes'? Or do you do what the owner's manual suggests ... take it easy on new tires and brakes until they 'break in'?????
When the rear pads are replaced (assuming done correctly) the piston is turned while pressing to retract the piston and make space for the new, thicker, pads. The turning is due to the e-brake system ... typically the system is turned beyond what is necessary but the auto adjust will bring the system into proper alignment with a few cycles of the hand brake. I expect this and just cycle the brake b4 ever driving with new rear pads
In general I'm not a fan of "rapid break in procedures" .... this is necessary at the track but not at home. One simply should EXPECT reduced performance for the first 100 miles or so. This is exactly what the 'instructions' for my prefered pads say on the box (EBC) .... Am I wrong? Well let me ask you this: when you buy a new car (if you have ever) is the first thing you do after leaving the dealer 'bedding the brakes'? Or do you do what the owner's manual suggests ... take it easy on new tires and brakes until they 'break in'?????
Maybe it was, since I was playing with the handbrake last night trying to see if the cable to the left and the right rear calipers were working (moving or something).
I was driving since the brake pads change without the e-Brake cycle.
My fault for not knowing that.
I will do the cycle later before driving the car again to home.
This is my first car (second owner).
I agree with you about your are not thinking on the "brakes bed-in procedure" but I believe when you buy a new car the brakes are already for use.
I think bed-in procedure AND a soft use (no hard brakes) during the first 100/300 miles is the best care for the new pads. Bed-in procedure don't replaces in any way the soft use in the first miles and it is not used as a "rapid break in procedure", that's clear for me.
Just to get pads material on the brake disk with the best procedure and avoid crystalization if you need an emergency brake during the first miles.
Thank you again for the info!
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,037
Likes: 283
From: Melbourne, FL
but I believe when you buy a new car the brakes are already for use.
you are wrong ....no one took the car out and slammed the brakes 10 or 20 times .... it simply does NOT happen ..... not for a MINI or a Ferrari ....
you are wrong ....no one took the car out and slammed the brakes 10 or 20 times .... it simply does NOT happen ..... not for a MINI or a Ferrari ....