ECU flashing is getting the computer for your engine reprogrammed

*as for folks collecting oil.. they do probably ~10% of the fluid in the can is oil though.

 

 

*yes you mail you ECU out after removal (takes 3days before its back in-hand typically)
*stage1 flash will bring some additional performance, as well as the temp adjustments; together you have a more responsiveness/power and cooler temps (stage2 requires some bolt-on upgrades prior to ECU flash)
*cost vary upon the shop/service

Send Mario Palza an email or PM here on the forum if youre interested. Ive had nothing but good experience with him and his services.

 

The engine needs to be at a certain temp in order for fuel to properly vaporize in the chamber. You're sayin that after the ECU is flashed and its mapped to run cooler, that the fuel will be vaporized the same way and that fuel consumption won't suffer?

I ask because when my thermostat was stuck in the open position, it kept the engine waaay cool and as a result, it was guzzling gas like a pig coz it wasnt burning it properly. If flashing doesnt affect mileage then i'll really look into it. Thanks cornjuice!


[QUOTE=cornjuice;4414280]i bought 2 cans and all the required fittings & hoses for less than a single BSH or M7 can.

Get your ECU flashed and it will run 30-40f cooler... all of this oil vaping issue gets resolved and a can isnt needed at all. Matter of fact - mine havent filled with ANYTHING since the flash and resetting thermostat temp to ~175f instead of the OEM ~230f

 

I had an M7 in my 2007. Still got mist in the inlet of the turbo. The system was restricting the pcv system and the engine. I was having all kinds of oil leaks in weird places on a recently rebuilt engine. Turns out the hoses in the catch can didn't breath enough for the system thus creating excess engine pressure. Ive removed the system entirely. anyone who wants it can have it I wouldn't even sell it. Ill go back to cleaning the engine on regular intervals.

 

Don't use steel wool, it's brittle and will break apart and be fed to your engine use stainless steel mesh. The M7 can catches nothing but a film on the inside of the can. Baffled cans are the only cans that work.

 

[QUOTE=obgmugen;4417764]The engine needs to be at a certain temp in order for fuel to properly vaporize in the chamber. You're sayin that after the ECU is flashed and its mapped to run cooler, that the fuel will be vaporized the same way and that fuel consumption won't suffer?

I ask because when my thermostat was stuck in the open position, it kept the engine waaay cool and as a result, it was guzzling gas like a pig coz it wasnt burning it properly. If flashing doesnt affect mileage then i'll really look into it. Thanks cornjuice!



Your on the right track..sort of.

*fuel isnt atomizing differently from the engine running cooler..this only happens at extreme high temps and extreme cold temps (ie +230f or -40f). I will do my best to nutshell the overall change..here goes:

Turbo engines have wildly fluctuating compression ratios and pressures. This has a direct effect on engine oil, called 'shearing'.. in which pressure and temp can break apart an oil mixture, causing vaporization/atomization of the oil additives (as they burn off at lower temps vs the oil itself). This is the crap that wreaks havoc on your valves and seals. Simply lowering the running temp of the engine is often enough to prevent such high amount of oil vaping (or you could lower your boost psi.. but who wants to do that). Oil catch cans are just bandaids for this problem.. catching some/most of the vapor, while failing to address the root issue causing the high amount of oil vapor.

In addition to the above- Mini recommends 20 and 30 weight oil.. in my opinion is not sufficient. 40 weight handles boost pressures much better (if I tracked my car I would run a 50 weight). You wont find many engines that live long running ~20psi on a 30 weight or lower... bearings need protection.. and oil temps in the motor can increase few hundred degrees within a second once boost comes in.

 

Upon doing a 4 hours on track at Sebring Raceway I can confirm the M7 can may get some oil in it, but 90% of it goes back thru the PCV system.

It's pretty, but it's a sad representation of quality from a Mini vendor. It's ebay catch can level usefulness.

 

Yeah, needs to have baffles. The stuff I put in isn't really "steel wool", it's that stainless steel scrubbing pad stuff that I expanded. Looks more like curled metal.
Going to engineer some type of metal baffle for it since I don't want to buy another.

 

you know just how your turbine wheel gets along with curled metal?

A = it doesnt

*anything in the catch can on the drivers side will be sucked directly into the turbo.. best remove that stupid metal stuff before youre replacing a turbo too

 

 

I just paid to find out BSH oil can had bad production on top of can was porous.
a smoke test was done discovered the top of can around the center rod was leaking.
caused a engine fault!

 

 

Stevie01 what did you do with wiring that went into the tubing yellow pipe fittings on R side?

 

i dont run a maf , there is no wiring ?

 

A maf is?
i have wiring on those connectors so I probably do.

 

Has anyone bought and used the MINI Madness
Madness MINI Cooper Carbon Fiber Oil Catch Can??
What do you think about it? Good,Bad other?

 

Anyone try swapping in ebay baffles into the M7?

 

I have a oil catch can installed it is bone dry does not catch any oil whatsoever ever?