wow that looks great what is the final coat if you don't mind me asking

 

Thanks for the pics. I am having hard time understanding what is going on with the passenger side connection. Is there a diagram that you can do and post here?

 

good question two lines from passangee side to cc?

 

Looks great, thanks for posting. Once you understand how the PCV system works, it makes sense.
The passenger side port evacuates gases under engine vaccuum, the turbo inlet port becomes the vacuum source under boost. There is a flap system in the valve cover that diverts flow based on engine load (czar has some great posts detailing this with a torn apart cover). Blocking the rear PCV port honestly isn't a great idea, the catch can needs to evacuate from both ports. However, if you don't block this port, your catch can on the drivers outlet isn't really catching all that much of the contaminants. Unless you are driving a race car, the passenger port is realistically the one that evacuates more of the crankcase pressure.

From what I can tell looking at the pictures, the center fitting on the RX can is the inlet and hooked up to the passenger side, and the outer 2 are both outlets hooked up to different vacuum sources (intake manifold port and turbo inlet port respectively). The clean side separator on the drivers side PCV port is also hooked up to constant vacuum (right behind MAF on turbo inlet side). This ensures proper vacuum at all points at all times, which prevents buildup of crank case pressure which can result in blown rings, blown out main seals, reduced performance from contaminants not venting properly out the system etc.

 

thanks for the explanation, since i was confused too. i would like to know how much is the cost of this occ.

 

great now it makes sense also cost too would love to know

 

I believe from post #2, it's around $450..

 

blunderbird has a great understanding.

Think of the crankcase as a smoke filled room, and you must remove this smoke. And, there is smoke entering at all times. This will require a "clean" or "fresh" side that brings in filtered fresh air to make up for the harmful compounds (the "smoke" in this example) as it "flushes". Just like having a window on one end letting in fresh air. The passenger side is where the "smoke" would exit (on an engine, the damaging combustion by-products that enter as blow-by) out an opposite window. Think of the vacuum present at non-boost operation as a "window fan" sucking the smoke out. If you had a smoke filled room and only open one window, pressure would escape....but only a small amount of the smoke. So the RX system uses vacuum from the intake manifold for non-boost evacuation (most other systems cap that so very little actual evacuation takes place, only pressure release into the intake air assy). This primary outlet has a billet one way check valve that senses when vacuum drops and boost occurs. Then the secondary outlet which also has a checkvalve uses the suction present at the turbo inlet and the valves open and close so at all times the crankcase is being evacuated. The cleanside (drivers side of the cam cover) is them routed through the billet cleanside separator (2 stages of coalescing media trap and oil vapors there during the brief few seconds when the valves are switching, and allows it to return to the cam cover as soon as the evacuation suction is again pulling vacuum on the crankcase. Since we want the cleanside to have less suction than the secondary outlet on the RX main separator, it is tapped in just downstream of the MAF sensor (critical that ALL incoming air is metered by the MAF as it all eventually enters the cylinders and must be measured for the ECU to properly calculate cylinder fill rate etc. for proper A/F ratio). The close proximity to the air filter disperses suction so the cleanside is not overpowered and 99% of the time proper direction of flow is "clean in, dirty out".

Hope this helps even more.

I think the price of the entire system is $399 USD, but I am not sales, just the engineer.

Anyone not 100% clear on all of this, just ask.

Oh, the damaging compounds that your removing and are constantly entering are:

Water Vapor (as steam released form the extreme pressure and heat of the combustion process).

Sulfuric acid (created when the water mixes with the various hydro carbon related compounds).

Un-burnt fuel, gasoline does not ever burn completely...and in cold weather this amount increases due to cold start enrichment.

Carbon and soot particles (these are what cause the discoloration of oil over time).

If these compounds are NOT immediately flushed and evacuated from the crankcase, they quickly settle and mix with the engine oil and the acid attacks all metal internal parts. This is one of the contributing factors to premature timing chain and tensioner wear as the compounds contaminating the oil reduce it's ability to protect properly. This can be seen in oil analysis for those that take the time to send a sample in to BlackStone or one of the other labs. You can do before and after tests to show how much cleaner and contaminate free your oil is after installing the system.

The RX system is Patented as well and anyone running any other "can" they assume is doing a good job can easily test by installing just the base RX main separator inline behind/after the can your using, and it will catch as much or more of this mixture than the first inline can showing how much gets past other designs....and then the lack of understanding all the functions of proper evacuation, especially with a turbo charged engine where the engine is in boost at least low boost, most of the time your driving, causes so much confusion and misunderstanding all that is involved.

Any questions, just ask.

 

For visual thinking people, can you please post a diagram of this setup? Thank you very much.

 

Wow, now that's a post. Thanks for coming online with it.

Any chance you have the system for the r53?
I test my oil with Blackstone and would be interested in deploying the system to compare with my two JCW R53's. I currently have one of the other guys' OCC's installed and would be up for trying the RX

 

All I need is a few good pictures of the engine compartment and all OEM connections. And if anyone with one near Tampa/Sarasota FL that could come in to verify fittings and do drawings.

I'll get the N14 and N18 diagrams finished and posted for all.

 

Thanks for explaining the technical end to all this Tracey. You definitely are a genius to me. Thanks again for all the assistance. I will have to come up there again and take you guys to lunch!

 

I can handle the images, but I would have to know what you're looking for. PM me and I'll give you a call to discuss what you want.

I can't supply the car though. I'm up in Ontario, Canada

 

I am using saikou michi dual catch can setup. I just want to see if I can improve it somehow with the way RX is setup. The diagram would be very helpful.

 

Saikou Michi is one of the few real good functioning cans out there! What you would want to do is re-route and add the one way checkvalves so it follows the RX routing so that it can evacuate in both boost and non boost operation.

If you post pictures I can guide you. No need to replace good cans.

jamez...PM me and I'll go over stuff in detail.

Thx all!!

 

Here is my setup...

 

tuner boost, if somebody decide to buy the rx can, will it come with all the fittings and hardware to do proper installation? how about instructions on how to install it?

 

Looks great! You have both sides covered, just need to add the checkvalves and an additional outlet to the dirty side can with checkvalves and your good.


Yes. Instructions will be on You tube and on our new website.

 

Thanks! What would I need in terms of parts and where to get them?

 

does that Saikou Michi fit with the factory airbox in place?

 

Yes, it does. It goes on the same bracket as BSH would.

 

PM'ed the other day, but my guess is that they're busy doing installs...

Happy Motoring, and thanks for the help!

 

tuner boost, thanks for your answer, any idea of when that is going to happen (you tube video and instructions on web site) ?

 

The video is almost complete, we'll have it up shortly. Unfortunately video production isn't our forte. Our videos are pretty lame but you'll get the idea. I should have it finished and linked here shortly. We'll get some instructions created as well.

Thanks for all the interest here, I got to drive my first Mini after the install and it was fun. I'm definitely a fan!

 

Will there be a group buy for this can? How it works in winter (-35°c) as the can fill with engine moisture?

Thank you