R56 Best Cold Air Intake
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
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From: NC
MY CAR IS BRAND NEW… WHY SHOULD I CHANGE MY AIR INTAKE SYSTEM?
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Aftermarket air intake systems are one of the most popular engine modifications available for late model cars and trucks. But why are they so popular? Didn't the manufacturer equip your car with the best parts available? Well, it depends on your point of view, whether you're a car buff or only care about the cup holders. Because you're reading this we assume you're in the former category, so read on for answers. We'll explain what these systems do for your ride and why you need one.
The Basics
Custom Air Intakes
You may have heard the internal combustion engine described as nothing more than an air pump, and to a certain extent this is true. Air, containing mostly oxygen and nitrogen, is pumped into your engine's cylinders along with fuel during the Intake stroke, compressed and burned during the Compression and Power strokes respectively, and then the spent exhaust gases are forced out by the pistons during the Exhaust stroke. Any resistance to the free flow of gases during the intake or exhaust stroke robs power from your engine, which is why aftermarket air intake systems, exhaust headers and less restrictive exhaust systems are common engine modifications. By reducing restriction, an aftermarket air intake system not only reduces pumping losses, it enables your engine to take in much more air. We'll explain how this additional air benefits your engine momentarily, but for now let's talk about restriction and how aftermarket systems eliminate it.
The factory air intake system on your car or truck is restrictive because it's a compromise. It's not that the engineers that designed your car or truck don't know what they're doing, but they had to take factors other than performance into account when they designed the air intake system, like noise and ease of maintenance. Sadly, most people that buy cars, even performance models, are perfectly happy to leave them as they are. And the additional air intake noise when the pedal is mashed would be the source of a complaint, not sweet music as it is to an enthusiast!
The flat panel air filter used on most late model vehicles may be easy to replace, but its small size makes it the primary source of restriction. Most aftermarket air intake systems start with a large, conical air filter installed in place of the factory filter and its airbox. While every manufacturer makes claims about the effectiveness of their filter media, the one thing all these aftermarket filters have in common is much more filter surface area, for much less restriction.
The next source of restriction is the factory air intake tube. Most factory tubes make awkward bends and have sound baffles, which may inhibit noise but also restrict airflow. Aftermarket air intake tubes are usually constructed from mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene. While polyethylene has a slight advantage in that it can be molded asymmetrically, both types feature larger diameters and smoother bends than the stock, factory unit, for less restriction and greater airflow all the way to the throttle body or turbocharger.
Types of Air Intake Systems
Air Intake Systems
There are 3 basic types of aftermarket air intake systems. The simplest system is as we've already described. It takes the place of the factory air filter, airbox and air intake tube, substituting a large, free-flowing, conical air filter and smooth, free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene intake tube. Some systems feature an adapter that smoothes the flow of air from the filter to the intake tube. This system fits entirely within the engine compartment and is sometimes referred to as a "Short Ram" system.
The 2nd type of system is the cold air intake systems. As we'll explain in more detail shortly, cold air is denser and better for combustion, but cold air here can best be described as air that is cooler than the air under the hood. To enable the air filter to take in cooler air, some manufacturers employ air dams that seal against the hood and shield the air filter from engine heat, while others use their own proprietary airbox, with air inlets positioned to only take in cooler air. The most dedicated systems position the air filter outside the engine bay, usually behind the bumper. Because these systems make the filter vulnerable to water during extremely wet weather, the intake tube sometimes comes in 2 pieces, so the system can be converted to a "Short Ram" when desired.
The final system type is a variant of the cold air intake system, with the addition of a "scoop" to force air into the filter. These "Ram Air" systems position the scoop to take advantage of high pressure areas in front of the vehicle, to force cold air into the air intake system.
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
Increased airflow allows your engine to burn more fuel, and more fuel equals more power. An engine operates most efficiently with a mixture of 14 parts air to one part fuel, also known as the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. So, if more air is supplied to the engine, more fuel can also be burned. More air and fuel (in the proper ratio) in the combustion process means a more forceful explosion driving the pistons, resulting in more power to the wheels.
Cold air is denser and contains more oxygen. It's the oxygen in the air that combines with the fuel for combustion, so if the increased airflow is also cooler, more fuel can be burned resulting in even more powerful combustion. It's estimated that for every 10 degrees cooler the air intake charge, power will increase by 1 percent.
Thankfully, the electronic fuel injection systems on the late model vehicles that these systems are designed for, especially those with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, have no trouble compensating for the increased airflow. The Engine Control computer reacts to the increased airflow by increasing fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture.
In Conclusion
Modern vehicles are electronic marvels, with variable valve timing and other complexities that make traditional hotrodding mods like cam replacement impossible or beyond the scope of the average enthusiast. Their high level of tune from the factory also makes them hard to improve upon. This makes the aftermarket air intake system the best investment for your performance dollar. The manufacturers we represent have verifiable performance claims backed up by dyno testing. One of these systems will increase your engine's horsepower and torque, with improved performance you can feel in the seat of your pants. And, if you can restrain yourself, you might even see a few more miles per gallon! An aftermarket air intake system is simply, the biggest bang for your buck.
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Aftermarket air intake systems are one of the most popular engine modifications available for late model cars and trucks. But why are they so popular? Didn't the manufacturer equip your car with the best parts available? Well, it depends on your point of view, whether you're a car buff or only care about the cup holders. Because you're reading this we assume you're in the former category, so read on for answers. We'll explain what these systems do for your ride and why you need one.
The Basics
Custom Air Intakes
You may have heard the internal combustion engine described as nothing more than an air pump, and to a certain extent this is true. Air, containing mostly oxygen and nitrogen, is pumped into your engine's cylinders along with fuel during the Intake stroke, compressed and burned during the Compression and Power strokes respectively, and then the spent exhaust gases are forced out by the pistons during the Exhaust stroke. Any resistance to the free flow of gases during the intake or exhaust stroke robs power from your engine, which is why aftermarket air intake systems, exhaust headers and less restrictive exhaust systems are common engine modifications. By reducing restriction, an aftermarket air intake system not only reduces pumping losses, it enables your engine to take in much more air. We'll explain how this additional air benefits your engine momentarily, but for now let's talk about restriction and how aftermarket systems eliminate it.
The factory air intake system on your car or truck is restrictive because it's a compromise. It's not that the engineers that designed your car or truck don't know what they're doing, but they had to take factors other than performance into account when they designed the air intake system, like noise and ease of maintenance. Sadly, most people that buy cars, even performance models, are perfectly happy to leave them as they are. And the additional air intake noise when the pedal is mashed would be the source of a complaint, not sweet music as it is to an enthusiast!
The flat panel air filter used on most late model vehicles may be easy to replace, but its small size makes it the primary source of restriction. Most aftermarket air intake systems start with a large, conical air filter installed in place of the factory filter and its airbox. While every manufacturer makes claims about the effectiveness of their filter media, the one thing all these aftermarket filters have in common is much more filter surface area, for much less restriction.
The next source of restriction is the factory air intake tube. Most factory tubes make awkward bends and have sound baffles, which may inhibit noise but also restrict airflow. Aftermarket air intake tubes are usually constructed from mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene. While polyethylene has a slight advantage in that it can be molded asymmetrically, both types feature larger diameters and smoother bends than the stock, factory unit, for less restriction and greater airflow all the way to the throttle body or turbocharger.
Types of Air Intake Systems
Air Intake Systems
There are 3 basic types of aftermarket air intake systems. The simplest system is as we've already described. It takes the place of the factory air filter, airbox and air intake tube, substituting a large, free-flowing, conical air filter and smooth, free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene intake tube. Some systems feature an adapter that smoothes the flow of air from the filter to the intake tube. This system fits entirely within the engine compartment and is sometimes referred to as a "Short Ram" system.
The 2nd type of system is the cold air intake systems. As we'll explain in more detail shortly, cold air is denser and better for combustion, but cold air here can best be described as air that is cooler than the air under the hood. To enable the air filter to take in cooler air, some manufacturers employ air dams that seal against the hood and shield the air filter from engine heat, while others use their own proprietary airbox, with air inlets positioned to only take in cooler air. The most dedicated systems position the air filter outside the engine bay, usually behind the bumper. Because these systems make the filter vulnerable to water during extremely wet weather, the intake tube sometimes comes in 2 pieces, so the system can be converted to a "Short Ram" when desired.
The final system type is a variant of the cold air intake system, with the addition of a "scoop" to force air into the filter. These "Ram Air" systems position the scoop to take advantage of high pressure areas in front of the vehicle, to force cold air into the air intake system.
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
Increased airflow allows your engine to burn more fuel, and more fuel equals more power. An engine operates most efficiently with a mixture of 14 parts air to one part fuel, also known as the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. So, if more air is supplied to the engine, more fuel can also be burned. More air and fuel (in the proper ratio) in the combustion process means a more forceful explosion driving the pistons, resulting in more power to the wheels.
Cold air is denser and contains more oxygen. It's the oxygen in the air that combines with the fuel for combustion, so if the increased airflow is also cooler, more fuel can be burned resulting in even more powerful combustion. It's estimated that for every 10 degrees cooler the air intake charge, power will increase by 1 percent.
Thankfully, the electronic fuel injection systems on the late model vehicles that these systems are designed for, especially those with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, have no trouble compensating for the increased airflow. The Engine Control computer reacts to the increased airflow by increasing fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture.
In Conclusion
Modern vehicles are electronic marvels, with variable valve timing and other complexities that make traditional hotrodding mods like cam replacement impossible or beyond the scope of the average enthusiast. Their high level of tune from the factory also makes them hard to improve upon. This makes the aftermarket air intake system the best investment for your performance dollar. The manufacturers we represent have verifiable performance claims backed up by dyno testing. One of these systems will increase your engine's horsepower and torque, with improved performance you can feel in the seat of your pants. And, if you can restrain yourself, you might even see a few more miles per gallon! An aftermarket air intake system is simply, the biggest bang for your buck.
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Here's another thought/question: even if the intake air with most of the CAI designs brings in hotter air, wouldn't the increase in air volume intake outweigh the temperature of the air anyhow, i.e. more but warmer air vs less but slightly cooler air.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
MY CAR IS BRAND NEW… WHY SHOULD I CHANGE MY AIR INTAKE SYSTEM?
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Aftermarket air intake systems are one of the most popular engine modifications available for late model cars and trucks. But why are they so popular? Didn't the manufacturer equip your car with the best parts available? Well, it depends on your point of view, whether you're a car buff or only care about the cup holders. Because you're reading this we assume you're in the former category, so read on for answers. We'll explain what these systems do for your ride and why you need one.
The Basics
Custom Air Intakes
You may have heard the internal combustion engine described as nothing more than an air pump, and to a certain extent this is true. Air, containing mostly oxygen and nitrogen, is pumped into your engine's cylinders along with fuel during the Intake stroke, compressed and burned during the Compression and Power strokes respectively, and then the spent exhaust gases are forced out by the pistons during the Exhaust stroke. Any resistance to the free flow of gases during the intake or exhaust stroke robs power from your engine, which is why aftermarket air intake systems, exhaust headers and less restrictive exhaust systems are common engine modifications. By reducing restriction, an aftermarket air intake system not only reduces pumping losses, it enables your engine to take in much more air. We'll explain how this additional air benefits your engine momentarily, but for now let's talk about restriction and how aftermarket systems eliminate it.
The factory air intake system on your car or truck is restrictive because it's a compromise. It's not that the engineers that designed your car or truck don't know what they're doing, but they had to take factors other than performance into account when they designed the air intake system, like noise and ease of maintenance. Sadly, most people that buy cars, even performance models, are perfectly happy to leave them as they are. And the additional air intake noise when the pedal is mashed would be the source of a complaint, not sweet music as it is to an enthusiast!
The flat panel air filter used on most late model vehicles may be easy to replace, but its small size makes it the primary source of restriction. Most aftermarket air intake systems start with a large, conical air filter installed in place of the factory filter and its airbox. While every manufacturer makes claims about the effectiveness of their filter media, the one thing all these aftermarket filters have in common is much more filter surface area, for much less restriction.
The next source of restriction is the factory air intake tube. Most factory tubes make awkward bends and have sound baffles, which may inhibit noise but also restrict airflow. Aftermarket air intake tubes are usually constructed from mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene. While polyethylene has a slight advantage in that it can be molded asymmetrically, both types feature larger diameters and smoother bends than the stock, factory unit, for less restriction and greater airflow all the way to the throttle body or turbocharger.
Types of Air Intake Systems
Air Intake Systems
There are 3 basic types of aftermarket air intake systems. The simplest system is as we've already described. It takes the place of the factory air filter, airbox and air intake tube, substituting a large, free-flowing, conical air filter and smooth, free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene intake tube. Some systems feature an adapter that smoothes the flow of air from the filter to the intake tube. This system fits entirely within the engine compartment and is sometimes referred to as a "Short Ram" system.
The 2nd type of system is the cold air intake systems. As we'll explain in more detail shortly, cold air is denser and better for combustion, but cold air here can best be described as air that is cooler than the air under the hood. To enable the air filter to take in cooler air, some manufacturers employ air dams that seal against the hood and shield the air filter from engine heat, while others use their own proprietary airbox, with air inlets positioned to only take in cooler air. The most dedicated systems position the air filter outside the engine bay, usually behind the bumper. Because these systems make the filter vulnerable to water during extremely wet weather, the intake tube sometimes comes in 2 pieces, so the system can be converted to a "Short Ram" when desired.
The final system type is a variant of the cold air intake system, with the addition of a "scoop" to force air into the filter. These "Ram Air" systems position the scoop to take advantage of high pressure areas in front of the vehicle, to force cold air into the air intake system.
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
Increased airflow allows your engine to burn more fuel, and more fuel equals more power. An engine operates most efficiently with a mixture of 14 parts air to one part fuel, also known as the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. So, if more air is supplied to the engine, more fuel can also be burned. More air and fuel (in the proper ratio) in the combustion process means a more forceful explosion driving the pistons, resulting in more power to the wheels.
Cold air is denser and contains more oxygen. It's the oxygen in the air that combines with the fuel for combustion, so if the increased airflow is also cooler, more fuel can be burned resulting in even more powerful combustion. It's estimated that for every 10 degrees cooler the air intake charge, power will increase by 1 percent.
Thankfully, the electronic fuel injection systems on the late model vehicles that these systems are designed for, especially those with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, have no trouble compensating for the increased airflow. The Engine Control computer reacts to the increased airflow by increasing fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture.
In Conclusion
Modern vehicles are electronic marvels, with variable valve timing and other complexities that make traditional hotrodding mods like cam replacement impossible or beyond the scope of the average enthusiast. Their high level of tune from the factory also makes them hard to improve upon. This makes the aftermarket air intake system the best investment for your performance dollar. The manufacturers we represent have verifiable performance claims backed up by dyno testing. One of these systems will increase your engine's horsepower and torque, with improved performance you can feel in the seat of your pants. And, if you can restrain yourself, you might even see a few more miles per gallon! An aftermarket air intake system is simply, the biggest bang for your buck.
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Aftermarket air intake systems are one of the most popular engine modifications available for late model cars and trucks. But why are they so popular? Didn't the manufacturer equip your car with the best parts available? Well, it depends on your point of view, whether you're a car buff or only care about the cup holders. Because you're reading this we assume you're in the former category, so read on for answers. We'll explain what these systems do for your ride and why you need one.
The Basics
Custom Air Intakes
You may have heard the internal combustion engine described as nothing more than an air pump, and to a certain extent this is true. Air, containing mostly oxygen and nitrogen, is pumped into your engine's cylinders along with fuel during the Intake stroke, compressed and burned during the Compression and Power strokes respectively, and then the spent exhaust gases are forced out by the pistons during the Exhaust stroke. Any resistance to the free flow of gases during the intake or exhaust stroke robs power from your engine, which is why aftermarket air intake systems, exhaust headers and less restrictive exhaust systems are common engine modifications. By reducing restriction, an aftermarket air intake system not only reduces pumping losses, it enables your engine to take in much more air. We'll explain how this additional air benefits your engine momentarily, but for now let's talk about restriction and how aftermarket systems eliminate it.
The factory air intake system on your car or truck is restrictive because it's a compromise. It's not that the engineers that designed your car or truck don't know what they're doing, but they had to take factors other than performance into account when they designed the air intake system, like noise and ease of maintenance. Sadly, most people that buy cars, even performance models, are perfectly happy to leave them as they are. And the additional air intake noise when the pedal is mashed would be the source of a complaint, not sweet music as it is to an enthusiast!
The flat panel air filter used on most late model vehicles may be easy to replace, but its small size makes it the primary source of restriction. Most aftermarket air intake systems start with a large, conical air filter installed in place of the factory filter and its airbox. While every manufacturer makes claims about the effectiveness of their filter media, the one thing all these aftermarket filters have in common is much more filter surface area, for much less restriction.
The next source of restriction is the factory air intake tube. Most factory tubes make awkward bends and have sound baffles, which may inhibit noise but also restrict airflow. Aftermarket air intake tubes are usually constructed from mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene. While polyethylene has a slight advantage in that it can be molded asymmetrically, both types feature larger diameters and smoother bends than the stock, factory unit, for less restriction and greater airflow all the way to the throttle body or turbocharger.
Types of Air Intake Systems
Air Intake Systems
There are 3 basic types of aftermarket air intake systems. The simplest system is as we've already described. It takes the place of the factory air filter, airbox and air intake tube, substituting a large, free-flowing, conical air filter and smooth, free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum or molded polyethylene intake tube. Some systems feature an adapter that smoothes the flow of air from the filter to the intake tube. This system fits entirely within the engine compartment and is sometimes referred to as a "Short Ram" system.
The 2nd type of system is the cold air intake systems. As we'll explain in more detail shortly, cold air is denser and better for combustion, but cold air here can best be described as air that is cooler than the air under the hood. To enable the air filter to take in cooler air, some manufacturers employ air dams that seal against the hood and shield the air filter from engine heat, while others use their own proprietary airbox, with air inlets positioned to only take in cooler air. The most dedicated systems position the air filter outside the engine bay, usually behind the bumper. Because these systems make the filter vulnerable to water during extremely wet weather, the intake tube sometimes comes in 2 pieces, so the system can be converted to a "Short Ram" when desired.
The final system type is a variant of the cold air intake system, with the addition of a "scoop" to force air into the filter. These "Ram Air" systems position the scoop to take advantage of high pressure areas in front of the vehicle, to force cold air into the air intake system.
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
The Benefits of Greater Airflow and Cold Air
Increased airflow allows your engine to burn more fuel, and more fuel equals more power. An engine operates most efficiently with a mixture of 14 parts air to one part fuel, also known as the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. So, if more air is supplied to the engine, more fuel can also be burned. More air and fuel (in the proper ratio) in the combustion process means a more forceful explosion driving the pistons, resulting in more power to the wheels.
Cold air is denser and contains more oxygen. It's the oxygen in the air that combines with the fuel for combustion, so if the increased airflow is also cooler, more fuel can be burned resulting in even more powerful combustion. It's estimated that for every 10 degrees cooler the air intake charge, power will increase by 1 percent.
Thankfully, the electronic fuel injection systems on the late model vehicles that these systems are designed for, especially those with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, have no trouble compensating for the increased airflow. The Engine Control computer reacts to the increased airflow by increasing fuel delivery to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture.
In Conclusion
Modern vehicles are electronic marvels, with variable valve timing and other complexities that make traditional hotrodding mods like cam replacement impossible or beyond the scope of the average enthusiast. Their high level of tune from the factory also makes them hard to improve upon. This makes the aftermarket air intake system the best investment for your performance dollar. The manufacturers we represent have verifiable performance claims backed up by dyno testing. One of these systems will increase your engine's horsepower and torque, with improved performance you can feel in the seat of your pants. And, if you can restrain yourself, you might even see a few more miles per gallon! An aftermarket air intake system is simply, the biggest bang for your buck.
BY TIMOTHY ZAHL ON APRIL 16, 2012
Either way, many of the assumptions he makes in his piece are speculative at best. This is not the language of an engineer, or even somebody who has spent time testing intakes in a controlled environment. It's sales speech.
Some examples:
"The factory air intake system on your car or truck is restrictive because it's a compromise...but they had to take factors other than performance into account when they designed the air intake system, like noise and ease of maintenance".
This is a generalization which is not generally true. Automobile manufacturers are under great pressure to produce more power from smaller, more efficient engines, and go to great effort to reduce power loss from external accessories like intakes, exhausts and power steering. They are easily able to engineer the sound that they desire without restricting flow. Ease of maintenance is a secondary concern.
"Aftermarket air intake tubes...feature larger diameters and smoother bends than the stock, factory unit, for less restriction and greater airflow all the way to the throttle body or turbocharger".
Sounds good, but it's speculation. The assumption is that the factory tubes are the limiting factor in pre-ignition airflow, and not the throttle body or compressor ferrule diameter. This is not a safe assumption.
Those are just two of several quibbles that I have with this piece. Again, I have no opinion on the M7 intake other than it looks nice: I've never installed one or tested it. This piece was just a very weak justification to buy an intake. I will, until otherwise convinced, continue to recommend that Gen 2 owners save their performance dollar for something that works.
I did quite a bit of testing, do as you wish.
As they say , got Torque ?
Last edited by rckrzy1; Jun 15, 2015 at 05:12 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 115
Likes: 1
Is that your "testing"? Because I didn't see that anywhere in your thread nor does that construe as testing. Dollar for HP, you lose.
Those are just two of several quibbles that I have with this piece. Again, I have no opinion on the M7 intake other than it looks nice: I've never installed one or tested it. This piece was just a very weak justification to buy an intake. I will, until otherwise convinced, continue to recommend that Gen 2 owners save their performance dollar for something that works.
But on the R56 the intake temp and intercooler are far more important.
So, if more air is coming in, then the ECC would compensate for that with more fuel, in order to preserve the ideal mix of 14.7 to 1. (stoichiometric ratio, spelling not checked) If the ECC is compensating, I see no gains in power or MPG. Cooler, more dense air? That would seem to be the key. Cooler, denser air contains more oxygen. But, cooler and denser air depends upon ambient conditions. Basically, my R56S would perform better in Washington state, in the cool and moist morning, than she would here in the HOT and DRY SoCal desert. Anyone ever heard of a spraybar? Basically, a metal or hose-type deal that would spray water onto hot things to keep them cool. Used on many motorhomes in the past to spray water onto the radiator during uphill climbs. I am wondering if some type of spraybar with water or water/meth would help to cool off the intercooler some during high-heat events like tracking. There would be added weight, as in a tank, pump, and the hardware. But, with today's lightweight technology, I wonder if the benefits would outweigh the added few pounds. Just thinking out loud here.....and I may be way off-base. Comments?
I run the JCW airbox with the AMS Oil cone filter. It works great. My 2007 MINI has been RMW tuned for years. I'm at 220WHP and almost 128,000 miles.
As a quick note on AFR, 14.7 to 1 is ideal for the best fuel economy but it's unsafe on a performance tuned motor. You ideally want your AFR to nose dive to around the 11.5 to 1 in order to protect your engine when inducing high amounts of boost.
As a quick note on AFR, 14.7 to 1 is ideal for the best fuel economy but it's unsafe on a performance tuned motor. You ideally want your AFR to nose dive to around the 11.5 to 1 in order to protect your engine when inducing high amounts of boost.
Just an update/context for discussion since I'm curious:
Did some more logging, highway and stop-go traffic. On the highway, IATs are definitely lower relative to ambient (always within 1-2 degrees F of ambient). During stop-go, I was seeing a maximum of +8 F of ambient. Is that 8 degree difference truly sapping that much power?! Keep in mind, this is during the heat of the day, in summer, in southwest Florida.
I currently have a K&N intake and Helix intercooler. Could it be that I'm not seeing drastic difference between ambient and intake because of the intercooler...even though those highest were at a dead stop in heavy traffic?
And yet another question conversation piece: would there be any benefit to closing off the "open box" style that the K&N comes with...I.E. going back to the stock box style and leaving the K&N cone and hard pipe attached? Along those lines, has anyone used the stock top half of the air box with the rest of the K&N kit?..will it fit inside the stock housing?
Did some more logging, highway and stop-go traffic. On the highway, IATs are definitely lower relative to ambient (always within 1-2 degrees F of ambient). During stop-go, I was seeing a maximum of +8 F of ambient. Is that 8 degree difference truly sapping that much power?! Keep in mind, this is during the heat of the day, in summer, in southwest Florida.
I currently have a K&N intake and Helix intercooler. Could it be that I'm not seeing drastic difference between ambient and intake because of the intercooler...even though those highest were at a dead stop in heavy traffic?
And yet another question conversation piece: would there be any benefit to closing off the "open box" style that the K&N comes with...I.E. going back to the stock box style and leaving the K&N cone and hard pipe attached? Along those lines, has anyone used the stock top half of the air box with the rest of the K&N kit?..will it fit inside the stock housing?
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: IA
Just an update/context for discussion since I'm curious:
Did some more logging, highway and stop-go traffic. On the highway, IATs are definitely lower relative to ambient (always within 1-2 degrees F of ambient). During stop-go, I was seeing a maximum of +8 F of ambient. Is that 8 degree difference truly sapping that much power?! Keep in mind, this is during the heat of the day, in summer, in southwest Florida.
Did some more logging, highway and stop-go traffic. On the highway, IATs are definitely lower relative to ambient (always within 1-2 degrees F of ambient). During stop-go, I was seeing a maximum of +8 F of ambient. Is that 8 degree difference truly sapping that much power?! Keep in mind, this is during the heat of the day, in summer, in southwest Florida.
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 516
Likes: 7
From: Sherman Oaks, Cali
As a newbie Mini S with a N18 motor owner I immediately decided that a CAI would be one of my first mods since nearly all air intakes usually see a noticeable increase in performance over stock so I ended up buying a used NM intake.
What I've learned is two things:
1. You will lose low end torque with any open air intake that draws air inside the engine compartment. Sounds cool that's all!!!
2. Anyone who's selling one of those open air intakes already know they don't make any power and are only trying to recoup the cost of purchased.
To all the 2nd gen. newbie Mini S turbo owners unless you get a true CAI which actually draws air from outside the engine compartment you're better off buying a aftermarket drop in OEM air filter.
What I've learned is two things:
1. You will lose low end torque with any open air intake that draws air inside the engine compartment. Sounds cool that's all!!!
2. Anyone who's selling one of those open air intakes already know they don't make any power and are only trying to recoup the cost of purchased.
To all the 2nd gen. newbie Mini S turbo owners unless you get a true CAI which actually draws air from outside the engine compartment you're better off buying a aftermarket drop in OEM air filter.
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 767
Likes: 0
From: Mooresville,NC
As a newbie Mini S with a N18 motor owner I immediately decided that a CAI would be one of my first mods since nearly all air intakes usually see a noticeable increase in performance over stock so I ended up buying a used NM intake.
What I've learned is two things:
1. You will lose low end torque with any open air intake that draws air inside the engine compartment. Sounds cool that's all!!!
2. Anyone who's selling one of those open air intakes already know they don't make any power and are only trying to recoup the cost of purchased.
To all the 2nd gen. newbie Mini S turbo owners unless you get a true CAI which actually draws air from outside the engine compartment you're better off buying a aftermarket drop in OEM air filter.
What I've learned is two things:
1. You will lose low end torque with any open air intake that draws air inside the engine compartment. Sounds cool that's all!!!
2. Anyone who's selling one of those open air intakes already know they don't make any power and are only trying to recoup the cost of purchased.
To all the 2nd gen. newbie Mini S turbo owners unless you get a true CAI which actually draws air from outside the engine compartment you're better off buying a aftermarket drop in OEM air filter.
I agree, most of the intakes are for sound and can benefit with an open intake scoop.
For the true Ram Air/ Cold Air use the AGS-R2
http://www.m7tuning.com/m7-ags-r2-fi...2007-2015.html
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
K&n
Sorry to revive this old thread, but i just got the K&N typhoon intake for my 2010 MCS. I've had it on got about a week now and it make the driving experience better i think. The turbo spool is nice and loud and with the Forge BOV, the boosh is awesome. it sounds a lot faster than it is.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena CA
Sorry to revive this old thread, but i just got the K&N typhoon intake for my 2010 MCS. I've had it on got about a week now and it make the driving experience better i think. The turbo spool is nice and loud and with the Forge BOV, the boosh is awesome. it sounds a lot faster than it is.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
I paid $250 @ PepBoys.
cold air intake
Sorry to revive this old thread, but i just got the K&N typhoon intake for my 2010 MCS. I've had it on got about a week now and it make the driving experience better i think. The turbo spool is nice and loud and with the Forge BOV, the boosh is awesome. it sounds a lot faster than it is.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
OK, since we are on the subject again.....I LOVE the sounds that my AFE Power "hot" intake gives. I really don't feel any drop in power from sucking hot air. BUT....I recently dumped my Racing Dynamics front tower brace for a GT Spec unit that rides much lower than the Racing Dynamics one did. I can look through my M7 hood scoop and clearly see the top of my open airbox. Has anyone tried the AEM cold air intake system with the GT Spec brace? I am not data-logging anything, nor running on a dyno, so all of my opinions are based upon my butt-dyno, which I understand is subjective, and can be influenced by noises like turbo spool and BOV whoosh. So, anyone tried the AEM intake with the GT Spec brace? Does it fit or hit?
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: FL
What is the intake size connect to the turbo on the R56?
1.56" I think? expanding up to 2.5" to the filter anyone? is this right? I'm looking to make my own in a different color silicone dark green lime green maybe...I'm having trouble finding the right size coupler and reducer 1.56" to 2.5" anyone
1.56" I think? expanding up to 2.5" to the filter anyone? is this right? I'm looking to make my own in a different color silicone dark green lime green maybe...I'm having trouble finding the right size coupler and reducer 1.56" to 2.5" anyone
Sorry to revive this old thread, but i just got the K&N typhoon intake for my 2010 MCS. I've had it on got about a week now and it make the driving experience better i think. The turbo spool is nice and loud and with the Forge BOV, the boosh is awesome. it sounds a lot faster than it is.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
before the intake, I could get it into gear, then hammer the throttle and it would pull through the revs and off i go. Now, with the intake, It'll chirp the tires and i get a little wheel spin through the gear. and the loud turbo spool is definitely addicting, especially since i removed the little scoop screen for the summer. Hate to say it but as much as I loathe it when they say they "add 5-10hp" and other crazy claims like that, I think it might be true.
although it might be because the sound is messing with my mind, it is definitely more fun to drive now.
all in all, I think the K&N intake for the R56 MCS is worth the 270.
But consistency ie: track day with 30 minute sessions they may not be ideal for.
I too have the K&N intake. I like that it reuses the factor air duct, has a box to create some sort of heat shield and sits almost directly behind the hood scoop which I've made more functional.
If I had to redo it, I'd choose one that directly connected to the hoodscoop tho
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 143
Likes: 11
From: Calgary, Canada
Ok, put stock air box back on, sure enough in traffic my IAT's did not climb near as much as my HOT air intake K&N typhoon did , I'd guess about 75% better so I'm done with sucking in hot air which I believe also heated up my FMIC.
I do miss the sounds but not enough to give up power.
Another weird thing, I know today is hotter than yesterday BUT I got on it to watch IAT's and could not believe I pegged by boost guage, I had dash command set for 20 max , and it pegged hard and fast. Could hot air intake have been hurting max boost or over boost do to the sudden intake of hotter air under hood ?
I have reset to max of 25 and will check again. Glad I went to 1 step colder plugs a month ago.
So I sucked it up and ordered the ECS CF intake because I want the ability to flow more and finding a JCW upper and lower could cost be almost as much . This way I'll have the factory colder air intake with a high flow filter without giving up torque and it's without a doubt the best looking.
Should have known this as my first motorcycle had those high flow air filters on the carbs and it's perf was horrible till I found a factory air box, albeit carbs are diff than our situation .
I just hope the ECS dyno numbers are real.
I do miss the sounds but not enough to give up power.
Another weird thing, I know today is hotter than yesterday BUT I got on it to watch IAT's and could not believe I pegged by boost guage, I had dash command set for 20 max , and it pegged hard and fast. Could hot air intake have been hurting max boost or over boost do to the sudden intake of hotter air under hood ?
I have reset to max of 25 and will check again. Glad I went to 1 step colder plugs a month ago.
So I sucked it up and ordered the ECS CF intake because I want the ability to flow more and finding a JCW upper and lower could cost be almost as much . This way I'll have the factory colder air intake with a high flow filter without giving up torque and it's without a doubt the best looking.
Should have known this as my first motorcycle had those high flow air filters on the carbs and it's perf was horrible till I found a factory air box, albeit carbs are diff than our situation .
I just hope the ECS dyno numbers are real.
I bought my manual tranny R55S with factory air box but withing a day or so, my mech was looking to offload an NM Engineering air intake kit with 3 metal pipes, filter and filter holder. I liked the look of it and was NEW to turbo'd engines and just said sure. Now I also had to give my mech my factory bits in the trade. I was happy to do so as this NM Engineering tubing and filter setup looks nifty. 2 years later, I'd kinda wondering WHY I did that. I do live in a Province which sees hot (to me) summers (25-33° C/80-90° F) and cold *** winters (-20° C/-10°F). In winter, this engine with NM ENgineering intake is a hoot, but this summer, specifically, I'm noticing the engine boggs down a LOT while accelerating in 1st gear from a dead stop. SO I wanted to see if I could swap back in a factory airbox system. Sadly, the pickers never have factory air boxes, as the engine pullers take that system with them as they remove the engines (first things to go from the Turbo'd MINIs in my area), SO I seen a local selling a new (1,000 kms only) ECS Tuning CF air intake system, for about the price of what the factory parts would be... I just need to procure some rubber gromets and the factory air tube that connects MAF sensor adn Turbo, then I can install.
I'm very curious to see if I get my low end torque back (from a stopped position, with hot engine) OR if I just purchased another "pretty" engine bit that no one will ever see. I'm sure it will offer some more benefits with the cone airfilter and also make washing the engine bay easier (will not have to cover open filter element with plastic bag anymore).
I should connect my Autel reader first, and check IAT values while driving about, then when I install my ECS CF kit, I'll retest the IATs to see what makes a difference, then sell the set that makes less sense to keep.
as always, thanks for the conversation and real world experiences everyone else provides.
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 416
Likes: 79
From: Florida
ECS Cold Air Intake Update ?
Its not only looks good when you pop the hood , its a CAI and does not pull air from the engine. Other intake just dont look near as nice and have the quality our has.
Good luck on whatever you choose , I don't think you will be disappointed, also our ECS CF intake is free ship. Really like it on our R58 JCW.
Good luck on whatever you choose , I don't think you will be disappointed, also our ECS CF intake is free ship. Really like it on our R58 JCW.
What happened to the M7 AGS system - crash and burn ?
Thanks !
Alliance Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 7,535
Likes: 2,503
From: WNY
For what its worth, a free flowing intake will best best for power as it will not be a restriction to the turbo inlet. After that, get the best intercooler you can afford. The intercooler is where the cold air to the engine will be coming from. So, low restriction intake and high effectiveness intercooler for best power.