I'm picking up the car tomorrow morning and will test it at night. The tech leveled them and all. I'm just worried about safety at this point and wonder what they'll be like in wooded areas or pitch black highways.

 

Here's something interesting:

One post stated:

1. Add $522 VO to CAS and FRM module and default car.
2. Thanks to http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...non-Headlights. Car now thinks it is on bixenon wiring configuration for the headlight pin connector. So need to tell the car it is using the stock 3 pin connector for halogen , so need to code PWM_FL_BEI_BIXENON in FRM module from wert_02 to wert_01, wert_01. Now flash to pass works. Also, high beam stays on!!!!!!!
PWM_FL_BEI_BIXENON
wert_01
wert_01
3. Might want to disable auto leveling because you don't have it and headlight cleaning.


A response to not being able to add wert_01 twice for bi xenon:

From NCS Expert the default PWM setting for PWM_FL_BEI_BIXENON was ‘Wert_02’ - I could change it only the once to 'Wert_01'. When I did this I studied the values listed in NCS Dummy under the ‘Wert_01’ selection and wrote them down (it was something like 100% and 00,FF’)

I then identified the other areas of the TRC file relating to PWM settings for Low beam and High Beams only. I then selected the ‘wert’ options in these settings that most closely resembled the selection for the PWM_Bixenon setting above (100% 00,FF).

I then coded these settings to the car and it worked - the xenons are now fully functional, high and low beams OK, with no flickering on engine start !

One final point - make sure you keep the manual levelling enabled to allow vertical adjustment of the headlight beam (assuming you've not retrofitted auto levelling).

 

Car is done and well, I have no high beams now. I do believe the dealer took the time and effort, and I appreciated that. I will look into why the phrase "Bi-Xenon" is written in the freaking housing, when in reality, they're not.
So that's the end of the story I guess.


A quick note to ECS Tuning: I didn't buy the kit from you, but I suggest you include this bit of info in your product's description, so you can avoid any negative feedback from future customers...just want to help you guys, since I've bought items from you before and have always been happy with the transactions.


But then again, the dealer could be full of it and well......lol

 

Freakon - Thanks for the update.

Maybe they could not get the program to take the re-flash or the LKM has issues ( footwell module ). Bad footwell module. These xenon lights ( each headlight ) has a bottom flap that is motorized and wires run to the plug housing and I can see them on the back of the Ellipsoid housing and when you remove the D5S 25 watt bulb and ballast, The flap moves up standard and then down when actuated ( powered ) , like for the high beams. Much like other bi xenons.

I have heard of people using there highs and there lows with these s I don't know what going on with yours. Maybe the coding, maybe the footwell module, or maybe the flaps ?

I will look more into this and see what I can pull up on our side.

 

No problem. Just trying to help.
As for the flaps, according to the dealer, this kit doesn't have flaps. I have not checked it myself, but comparing pictures with MfgPart#63127270027, I can see a slight difference on the bulb's lenses, sort of a margin or line...I could be wrong though.

 

Where are you located?

Let's see if we can get someone to code this for you.

I was going to buy these, but I still don't see definitive results.
Some have coded, others have rearranged wires to get high beams working.

Looks like the high beam signal otherwise used for the Halogens are being sent to the bulb flap.

I however would trust ECS tuning' s last post.
I do not doubt they (ECS) opened a box and physically looked, unlik th dealer.

 

TVPostSound

Yea we opened a box that we owned in the past and took a peak. I know what they look like and posted my findings above. See another one recently and it looked the same. The lens has little bubble bumps on it. Maybe you got a set that was produced wrong ( manufacturer error ), but for both of them to be like that I think its a shot in the dark.

Hope you can find another dealer or someone who can program in your area.

New regular bi xenon 35w has adjustable flap ( line )


New 25w Xenon Retrofit kit ( little bubbles) has adjustable flap also.


Thanks

 

I took pictures of the inside of the housing and can't see any moving parts, in fact, I don't see a control unit anywhere, just the back of the Phillips bulb. I was going to post them, but haven't figured out how. When engaging the highs, I don't hear anything trying to move or any sounds indicating a malfunctioning component (electrical clicks, etc)

 

I'm in the San Francisco bay area.

 

Should be the back of a module ignitor and you should see phllips D5S , when you twist and bulb / ignitor connected ( lefty loosy ) , and slowly pull it out ( wire will be attached to the ignitior/ bulb ) You should be able to look in the hole and see a flap on the bottom. Take a long pencil and push on the flap . It will move down.

There is a motor right under the Xenon ignitor/ bulb, that pulls that flap.

Thats it the flap.

 

Check these guys out.
Popular with BMW guys.

http://www.sfbmwcoding.com/bmw-coding-services

 

Trying to get photobucket to work...
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/fr...tty/slideshow/
That should take you to the photos I've taken.
I looked under the bulb and didn't see any moving parts...still have to take the whole headlight off to get a better view though.

 

Yes you should have Hi Beams. And the kits do have some odd bump lines to the projector lens = normal. If you still don't have Hi Beam then clearly the tech is not loading the proper program.

Have them open a PUMA case if they are still unable to figure this out. Hopefully they know how to do that...

GL!

 

At this point I seriously doubt they'll know what that is...they'll probably direct me to the nearest Puma outlet
Taking the light housing off will have to wait until the weekend. Getting dark here and have work tomorrow...Once I take it off, I'll post more pictures of the inside of the unit.
BTW, I had them install the Daytime running lights LED kit, which looks amazing, but according to the service advisor, it took the tech 3 tries... I thought, why not have them work on that, since they'll be fixing the previous tech's mess anyway...at least they got the LED kit right, fixed my tilted steering wheel (from previous mess they made) and washed my car....still, I would trade all of that for high beams lol.

 

Sorry TVPost, I totally skipped your post. I will try another dealer nearby first, then will give those guys a call. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

 

Yes, I agree with Raven, these lights do have high beams! They have done something wrong in programming. It's highly unlikely that both lights are defective in some way.
I've installed and programmed several sets without incident.

Believe me the improvement over the stock lights is worth the effort.
Another dealer may be able to get the corrections made.

 

yes they have high beams and with car not running you surely hear the thump when the flap opens for high beam. If you look inside you can't miss the flap and solenoid assy, it's obvious. Open the bottom cover that is used to change turn signal bulb, you will see it.

And my dealer got it right the first time, actually had a tech do it after hours for a nice tip.

Love these xenon, worth it. Trying to upgrade my wifes car with standard after market HID kits and having no luck getting it to work.

 

+1 yep gave "freakon" the run down on the flap and how to see it and the little motor. The pics freckon posted show the wires and such I have seen on the 25w xenon retrofit kit. The motor is under the bulb / ignitor , even though freakon did not take a picture of the acutal unit.

little motor is under the square 25watt unit. You just cant see it in the pic. The wires go to it. Freakon pic below . That's the correct 25w retrofit kit w/ the flap.
20150127_1429461_zps78a341bd.jpg?619


You will need to find another dealership or shop to help you with the programming.

 

Would you mind identifying which dealer has been handling it? Sounds like one I should avoid!

 

Thank you all for the input. I have made an appointment with another dealer nearby, which happens to be my go-to dealer....reason why I went to a different one? my wife had a teacher's conference near the area where the dealer in question is,so I said, what the heck, why not?....so now I feel like a fool.
Anyway, the dealer I'm going to see on Monday is the one I always take my car for service, etc., so I have 100% confidence in them, since they've always done great work on my current MINI (13 S) and my previous one (09 base cooper).
I spoke to the service manager, he's told me his foreman is very familiar with this kit and its potential issues, so he'll look at it. I'll keep you guys posted on the results.

 

Would you share with us, the settings you made in NCSExpert??

 

Hey guys. I was able to take a couple of pictures from the side of the headlight housing....I can see something under the bulb's housing...is that the motor you guys are talking about? Sorry, about the angle, I was at work and the curiosity was killing me On the weekend, I'll take some better ones with the headlights completely off.
Here's the link: http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/fr...tty/slideshow/
In any case, I'll be going to my dealer on Monday.

 

Yea, that looks like it. Its really small ( C battery size or smaller ) and has a plunger mechanism that goes through it that attaches to the bottom of the flap. The flap moves down when moved.

Looks like the other dealer should help you out.

 

Thought so. Thanks.
Now, the question is....once the other dealer gets it to work, should I go back to the first dealer and show them? I mean, at one point, their reasoning for the highs not working was "these lights are so bright, they don't need high beams", then changed to "this kit doesn't have the flap". BTW, by "show them", I don't mean give them a hard time, simply let them know this kit has the flap, etc.

 

I'd be as constructive as possible when going to the other dealer...

I'd hate to see someone else in your situation have to go through the same hurdles with your first dealer.