R56 R56 getting nervous...
Cold start
Started the car cold this morning (48F) and although not rock solid idle it didn't stumble or run rough, no engine lights or chimes.
I'll give it another week or so and see if it runs ok.
I'll give it another week or so and see if it runs ok.
I think you might be right, started ok this morning but 0.5 mile down the road the engine was hesitating at lower rpms, seemed to smooth out when it warmed up.
Replying just to follow the story really...mostly to see what happens...I have had my 2008 for a little over a year now, and have had zero issues...and I drive the pi$$ out of my car...take it to the track, and run it hard...its weird that a newer car that is driven very mild in comparison is having issues like you describe...
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 201
Likes: 1
Replying just to follow the story really...mostly to see what happens...I have had my 2008 for a little over a year now, and have had zero issues...and I drive the pi$$ out of my car...take it to the track, and run it hard...its weird that a newer car that is driven very mild in comparison is having issues like you describe...
1) this car runs extremely hot. Plastic parts wear down overtime and guess what the timing chain guides are made out of? You guessed it, plastic. The one YouTube video shows how the guides literally explode and get bits of plastic all over.
2) oil starvation. There are a myriad of ways to slice this but major contributions are the crappy oil delivery system, Minis unrealistic service intervals, and people not monitoring oil consumption. I will say this, most Mini owners have never owned a FI car and rarely check oil levels, especially on newer cars. Heck, I have had a jeep with a head gasket leak and 100k on the clock that consumed less oil than what is "normal" per mini (1 qt every 1k). If you couple these new owners with the oil consumption of our cars, it spells trouble for 2nd and 3rd owners that now know what to look for.
My car was a dream. All service was done on time, at a mini dealership, and at mini intervals by the previous owner, but even doing most likely lead to oil starvation since mini intervals are 10-15k. Since I have gotten it, I have upped changes to every 5k or after a good motoring session and I still have the timing chain take a **** on me. I think that is what has upset me the most, never have I seen a time where following the manufactures service intervals would lead to such catastrophic problems.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 4
From: Sugar Land, Texas
Well I for one, love my MINI and have been fixing the issues that lead to most of the drama these cars have.
For one... I am removing the PCV system and have installed an Air/Oil separator. The two points on the valve cover are now connected to draw through an oil filtration point, then the breather to the turbo inlet is connected at a higher point so I can have clean crankcase air drawn in for better ring seal.
I was alerted to my failing vacuum pump by the oil dripping on the ground from the vacuum line disconnected from the rear vac reservoir. So after a LOT of searching, decided to make a block off part to remove the vacuum pump altogether. I then removed the intake manifold, bored out the fitting to 8mm and installed a check valve so the system only sees vacuum, not boost. I made a secondary vacuum reservoir which has a 13-19 hg/in sensor switch that powers a Cadillac CTS-V electric aux vacuum pump so my brakes & boost control solenoid will always have sufficient vacuum to function.
So far I have spent less money to do all this than it would have taken to replace the pump alone... and I will never have to worry about it failing again! In fact... I bet I free up a few HP from not having to turn it at all!
I will have this project all wrapped up in a week when I can get more time to mess with it. Should be a great mod to share!
For one... I am removing the PCV system and have installed an Air/Oil separator. The two points on the valve cover are now connected to draw through an oil filtration point, then the breather to the turbo inlet is connected at a higher point so I can have clean crankcase air drawn in for better ring seal.
I was alerted to my failing vacuum pump by the oil dripping on the ground from the vacuum line disconnected from the rear vac reservoir. So after a LOT of searching, decided to make a block off part to remove the vacuum pump altogether. I then removed the intake manifold, bored out the fitting to 8mm and installed a check valve so the system only sees vacuum, not boost. I made a secondary vacuum reservoir which has a 13-19 hg/in sensor switch that powers a Cadillac CTS-V electric aux vacuum pump so my brakes & boost control solenoid will always have sufficient vacuum to function.
So far I have spent less money to do all this than it would have taken to replace the pump alone... and I will never have to worry about it failing again! In fact... I bet I free up a few HP from not having to turn it at all!
I will have this project all wrapped up in a week when I can get more time to mess with it. Should be a great mod to share!
Naw, yours (like all of ours) is a ticking time bomb. For some it happens at 40k for others 100k, but it happens to everyone. I think there are 2 major factors:
1) this car runs extremely hot. Plastic parts wear down overtime and guess what the timing chain guides are made out of? You guessed it, plastic. The one YouTube video shows how the guides literally explode and get bits of plastic all over.
2) oil starvation. There are a myriad of ways to slice this but major contributions are the crappy oil delivery system, Minis unrealistic service intervals, and people not monitoring oil consumption. I will say this, most Mini owners have never owned a FI car and rarely check oil levels, especially on newer cars. Heck, I have had a jeep with a head gasket leak and 100k on the clock that consumed less oil than what is "normal" per mini (1 qt every 1k). If you couple these new owners with the oil consumption of our cars, it spells trouble for 2nd and 3rd owners that now know what to look for.
My car was a dream. All service was done on time, at a mini dealership, and at mini intervals by the previous owner, but even doing most likely lead to oil starvation since mini intervals are 10-15k. Since I have gotten it, I have upped changes to every 5k or after a good motoring session and I still have the timing chain take a **** on me. I think that is what has upset me the most, never have I seen a time where following the manufactures service intervals would lead to such catastrophic problems.
1) this car runs extremely hot. Plastic parts wear down overtime and guess what the timing chain guides are made out of? You guessed it, plastic. The one YouTube video shows how the guides literally explode and get bits of plastic all over.
2) oil starvation. There are a myriad of ways to slice this but major contributions are the crappy oil delivery system, Minis unrealistic service intervals, and people not monitoring oil consumption. I will say this, most Mini owners have never owned a FI car and rarely check oil levels, especially on newer cars. Heck, I have had a jeep with a head gasket leak and 100k on the clock that consumed less oil than what is "normal" per mini (1 qt every 1k). If you couple these new owners with the oil consumption of our cars, it spells trouble for 2nd and 3rd owners that now know what to look for.
My car was a dream. All service was done on time, at a mini dealership, and at mini intervals by the previous owner, but even doing most likely lead to oil starvation since mini intervals are 10-15k. Since I have gotten it, I have upped changes to every 5k or after a good motoring session and I still have the timing chain take a **** on me. I think that is what has upset me the most, never have I seen a time where following the manufactures service intervals would lead to such catastrophic problems.
I got out of my beloved RX-8 due to engine life issues...I didn't really want to step into another car with them...so I want to do what I can to prolong its life...
Update
Hi folks,
So I took it in again...they finally realized I had a bad HPFP and switched it out, picked the car up and it drives ok now, no cold starting problems.
I'm thinking of hanging on to the car for at least a few months to see how reliable it is, it should be good now considering its had new timing chain/tensioners, valve seals and HPFP.
Its quite amazing how much the dealer cost would have been on the car in the last year, its probably pushing $10k, I'm guessing that's more than a lot of ferraris...for a car that was originally conceived as a very cheap runaround for the lower class (1959).
So I took it in again...they finally realized I had a bad HPFP and switched it out, picked the car up and it drives ok now, no cold starting problems.
I'm thinking of hanging on to the car for at least a few months to see how reliable it is, it should be good now considering its had new timing chain/tensioners, valve seals and HPFP.
Its quite amazing how much the dealer cost would have been on the car in the last year, its probably pushing $10k, I'm guessing that's more than a lot of ferraris...for a car that was originally conceived as a very cheap runaround for the lower class (1959).
I've heard that the N18 has a different pcv valve design so its got less carbon build up issue. Btw, my R56 looks and ages the same as yours except I got no stripes and got the rally lights and its a bloody auto :| My time bomb has exploded at exactly 40k miles. All 4 cyclinders were kaput, low on compression back then. Dealer had to put a new engine in for that. Lucily its a CPO car, so warranty take care of it. But after that and many bits and bobs (a/c compressors, water pumps, timing chain kit,blah blah blah........... goes on forever), its more like 20k for the dealer to fix mine. So if I were you, u need to wish things covered by warranty goes kaput before the warranty ends or it somehow become very reliable after warranty ends. Hope it didnt scare you
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: FL
From what all has been said I have been lucky @56,000 miles 09 S R56 Auto trans paddle shift..
only change out was the thermostat jarvic seven cover...Plastic!!
did the change myself,..Upgrades- catless DP Evolve all the way back no res
larger intercooler with hot side delete..Tune showing up today TMC Motorsport Piggy back...so I hope to get at least 100,000 miles...regular oil change about every 3,000
only change out was the thermostat jarvic seven cover...Plastic!!
did the change myself,..Upgrades- catless DP Evolve all the way back no res
larger intercooler with hot side delete..Tune showing up today TMC Motorsport Piggy back...so I hope to get at least 100,000 miles...regular oil change about every 3,000
I do a lot of maintenance to my car. I also am beginning to have axle problem and I am burning a good amount of oil right night now but, what do you expect when you tune a N14 and then track it and drive it like you stole it.
Looking at this its safe to say these cars are very unreliable. Ive had to replace a motor and clutch and many other things. I have about 12000 on the new motor with no issues. I change oil every 3000, and pull the valve cover and check other fluids as well. The service intervals suck from factory but if you do it yourself its not to bad on cost. I have an OCC, hot side delete, resonator delete, aem CAI, detroit tuned turbo oil lines, and alta recirc upgrade spring. My last engine was a bomb. Plastic water pump failed, It over heated, and warped the head. Got the head fixed and a valve stuck. That engine was terrible, but the newest one with the upgrades is doing pretty well. Just show the car liberal amounts of love and get handy with your own tools and costs wont be so bad. Clutch cost me less than 500 (didnt need a flywheel) and engine was about 5000 all in all.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 3
From: Omaha, NE
Though a redesigned PCV system may dump less oil directly over the valves, there is not going to be a zero-build up DI design, really. Without the fuel washing the intake valves, there will be build up on them. Even on the minimally redesigned magical N18.
Porthos---what kind of axle problems are you experiencing? Wobble under hard acceleration?
InjectedGT---Some have said that running these N18's HARD actually helps to keep the valves clean. This is what I do, every time I drive. Only at 34k on my 2011 R56S, so we will see if it keeps the valves clean....or just destroys the entire powerplant!
InjectedGT---Some have said that running these N18's HARD actually helps to keep the valves clean. This is what I do, every time I drive. Only at 34k on my 2011 R56S, so we will see if it keeps the valves clean....or just destroys the entire powerplant!
Minus a snafu on my part many miles ago, I've been relatively free of any issues. Love the MINI. She's not going anywhere because 1) It ain't worth much selling with all that I've done to it 2) Just too much fun and 3) It helps when you know people and know how to do the repairs yourself 
Since I am lowered I get a whine like metal metal rubbing when hard over turning and when I am going down incline like a driveway if my wheels are turned the slightest it will slip I guess is the best way to describe it and will hesitate like it is jammed up.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 21
From: Cape cod
Head
My 09 MCS had walnut cleaning at 45, & 3, miles 3 mos. later it was again in limp home mode. That was a rebuilt head with four valves replaced all seals etc.
4,$ + at the same time timing belt new replacement was installed for cost!
One or more valves were broken that the dealer could not produce when asked.
I believe the HPFP was done on warranty head work was off warranty my cost or would of been same as a extended warranty I should of paid for.
The dealer guaranteed it would happen again, carbon on valves!
& wrote Seafoam on the work order, ie. Wrote in writing not part of official work order. & gave me the number of someone whom could show me how to use Seafoam, that I now inject into head every two weeks & drive car like it wants hard. Not like the owners manual implies.
Mini said they would pay for the head work next time, thanks, Mini.
I now check oil every day as they use oil & I was low on oil after three thousand after a oil change.
& now monitor engine on iPhone with dash commander.
Assuming you are proactive with the car get things fixed by yourself or independent shop it may last or not?
4,$ + at the same time timing belt new replacement was installed for cost!
One or more valves were broken that the dealer could not produce when asked.
I believe the HPFP was done on warranty head work was off warranty my cost or would of been same as a extended warranty I should of paid for.
The dealer guaranteed it would happen again, carbon on valves!
& wrote Seafoam on the work order, ie. Wrote in writing not part of official work order. & gave me the number of someone whom could show me how to use Seafoam, that I now inject into head every two weeks & drive car like it wants hard. Not like the owners manual implies.
Mini said they would pay for the head work next time, thanks, Mini.
I now check oil every day as they use oil & I was low on oil after three thousand after a oil change.
& now monitor engine on iPhone with dash commander.
Assuming you are proactive with the car get things fixed by yourself or independent shop it may last or not?
Hi Folks,
I'm the owner of a 2009 Cooper S, stick shift. Bought it from a dealer used with low miles (12.5k) 2011. It has an extended warranty to October 2015. It includes servicing and I do my own oil changes in between as I feel the oil change intervals are too long for this car. It has 45k miles on the clock now and I drive it quite easy, I commute in it and don't drive it that hard. Never track or race it etc.
Its been having lots of problems and although I really wanted to keep the car long term its making me very nervous now, let me outline what it has had:
- About a year ago the cam cover was weeping a little so dealer changed it ($900).
- A few weeks ago I took it for oil change and mentioned it rattled a little on cold start. They did a full chain and tensioner swap ($3500).
- At the same time as the tensioner they recommended a carbon clean (I paid $250 but they just put cleaning foam in it). It didn't run any smoother afterward.
- Week and a half later the car starts misfiring on cold starts and the check engine light comes on. Take it back to the dealer.
- A week later they tell me they have taken the head off and replaced all the valve seals for new ones ($3800).
I'm picking the car up today. I have 10 months of warranty left and once it expires I'm worried this car is going to be a nightmare, I'm good at working on my own cars but have no equipment to read codes and I don't want to spend every weekend fixing something on the mini.
Am I overthinking this? will it be ok now? I thought I did everything right, frequent oil changes, don't drive it hard etc. But it keeps needing very expensive work.
Any advice?
Thanks
I'm the owner of a 2009 Cooper S, stick shift. Bought it from a dealer used with low miles (12.5k) 2011. It has an extended warranty to October 2015. It includes servicing and I do my own oil changes in between as I feel the oil change intervals are too long for this car. It has 45k miles on the clock now and I drive it quite easy, I commute in it and don't drive it that hard. Never track or race it etc.
Its been having lots of problems and although I really wanted to keep the car long term its making me very nervous now, let me outline what it has had:
- About a year ago the cam cover was weeping a little so dealer changed it ($900).
- A few weeks ago I took it for oil change and mentioned it rattled a little on cold start. They did a full chain and tensioner swap ($3500).
- At the same time as the tensioner they recommended a carbon clean (I paid $250 but they just put cleaning foam in it). It didn't run any smoother afterward.
- Week and a half later the car starts misfiring on cold starts and the check engine light comes on. Take it back to the dealer.
- A week later they tell me they have taken the head off and replaced all the valve seals for new ones ($3800).
I'm picking the car up today. I have 10 months of warranty left and once it expires I'm worried this car is going to be a nightmare, I'm good at working on my own cars but have no equipment to read codes and I don't want to spend every weekend fixing something on the mini.
Am I overthinking this? will it be ok now? I thought I did everything right, frequent oil changes, don't drive it hard etc. But it keeps needing very expensive work.
Any advice?
Thanks
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: north ogden, ut
what are the chances the people that love their minis and have had minimal work done just arent speaking up. my 08 mini cooper s has 62k on it and only received air filters and oil changes. oil changes being done at 5k miles. last week i took the valve cover off to look aorund. chain looked snug, changed plugs, gasket, air filter and did an oil change. i noticed a little residue on the cheap oem water pump so i put in an aftermarket water pump and thermostat. lets see what happens.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 4
From: Sugar Land, Texas
I am very happy to reply that after several months of driving my MINI with the new Air/Oil Separator that I made and removing the vacuum pump... that I have had NO more build-up on the valves. I have noticed that I picked up at least 2mpg hwy from not having the drag of the vacuum pump on the cam and I am pulling enough vacuum to operate the brakes without the need for the electric vacuum pump I installed.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
what are the chances the people that love their minis and have had minimal work done just arent speaking up. my 08 mini cooper s has 62k on it and only received air filters and oil changes. oil changes being done at 5k miles. last week i took the valve cover off to look aorund. chain looked snug, changed plugs, gasket, air filter and did an oil change. i noticed a little residue on the cheap oem water pump so i put in an aftermarket water pump and thermostat. lets see what happens.
me:
vacuum pump
valvecover
coolant overflow tank
warranty/recall:
thermostat housing
turbo oil lines
timing chain & tensioner
i still need to do the oil filter housing gaskets, water pump and front crank seal. i am sure it would benefit from being walnut blasted as well but i can't get the dealer to email me back and tell me how much they charge.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 87
From: Pacific NW
People with car problems are going to go to car forums to complain about it. People without car problems don't.
I'll try and break this trend by saying, I bought my MINI new and haven't had any problems with it.
Dave
I'll try and break this trend by saying, I bought my MINI new and haven't had any problems with it.
Dave