Hello, these are the instructions for the R52 r53 does anyone know what changes to expect on the R56 no turbo basme model H


(copied form another thread on this site)


Option 1 is the fastest way

Take off the passenger wheel

Unscrew all the fasteners holding the wheel liner in place from the forward side of the shock to the bumper, leave the other half in.

Fold the liner back over the brake rotor, it should hold it self in place

The crank gear and back side of the engine should be exposed.

With a swivel socket and a long ratchet loosen and remove the tensioner, some oil will most likely spill out so be ready for that.

Slide in new tensioner, hold it there by hand putting pressure on the chain.

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise with a socket and ratchet feeling for the the tensioner to slide in in. It is important to keep pressure on the chain with the tensioer while this is done.

Rotate the crank until the tensioner has slid in enough to put the screw plug back in or at least get it started.

If the screw becomes hard to turn, it may be necessary to rotate the crank clock wise a little more. Do this slowly as the chain can slap back on rotation locking the tensioner.

Once the plug is all the way down give the crank a few rotations, always clock wise to make sure there is no chain binding.

Torque the plug to 46 FT-LB

Check the oil level, top off if needed

Fire it up and check for rattle or leaks.

If every thing is ok put the liner and wheel back inn

Test drive and enjoy.

This can all be done in about 20-30 min.

Option 2 Not as quick, but still fast.

Have a new valve cover gasket ready before starting

The other option is to remove the valve cover after the wheel liner is moved

Observe the cam gear, it has a raised half and a sunk down half.

Rotate the cam / crank so the raised half faces up with the edges to the sunk down half lined up to the head. Same idea as setting TDC with the line on the cam gear.

This places the chain in a position with the most slack on the tensioner.

Be ready for oil leakage

Remove the old tensioner and slide in the new one in, screw down the plug. This does not require the crank to be rotated and actually should not be moved until the new tensioner and plug are installed . Just put it in and torque to 46 FT - LB

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise to check for binding.

replace the valve cover gasket if needed. Put every thing else back together.

Fire it up check for rattles and leaks

Test drive and enjoy

 

I changed my chain tensioner and did not need to remove either the front wheel or the valve cover.

I suggest you look at the how to thread on replacing the chain tensioner here:https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

The instructions are for a MCS but the chain tensioner is the same for a non-turbo so the basics should be the same. I know the plumbing is different but I believe tensioner and chain are the same.

Please correct me if I'm wrong!