Just replaced my Battery (varta) with a new one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exide-EK700-.../dp/B00APD88YM
But now start-stop function is not working.Can you tell me if i need to register the battery to make it work?

 

So what I glean from this thread is that I can buy this battery, take the old one out and hook it up without messing with that Reset thing on the negative terminal. And what's this vent thing somebody mentioned? I think my OEM battery is sealed. Mine's 6 years old so it's probaby ready to take a dump.

 

If there is no vent on the new then you don't have to worry about it. Just get the same type of battery that is in your MINI(same series not brand).

Disconnect your battery again for about 10 minutes and hook it up again and see if that clears it up for you.

 

60cca $149.00 at the dealer in N Atlanta.

 

So did you have the battery coded?

 

After I had my new battery replaced, I had it coded just to be optimal if there is such a thing.... I also got a $20 Diehard battery minder. It is digital, seems to work fine and it tells you how much charge you have as it analyzes the battery. I'm typically at about 85 - 90% charge. I hook it up once a week or so over night based on my light drive time during the week. I did have a couple checks for a parasitic drain done by a couple different people and I have none, so I point to my short drive time for the issues I've experienced since replacement of the original battery.

 

All batteries have a stamped manufacturer date and shelf life. Buying a higher CCA battery can affect the footprint due to more plates. If it is the same footprint it means the plates are THINNER and crack easier from vibration. Optimun temp for a Battery is 70 deg F. And since it it mounted under the hood near a heat source, getting more than 3 years life is great.
If you need more CCA due to weather conditions in your area, you need a larger case and brackets will not fit, but it will last longer. The worst thing you can do to a battery is drain it down completely and recharge. It will diminish the cell plates a lot quicker. Trickle charging is better than BOOST charging, and clean post with battery grease helps corrosion.
Post Growth (when post looks like it raising up from the case) will cause the post seal to leak fumes which will cause corrosion and battery will short out or explode even while in the garage idle. Case swelling (Bulging) sides show signs of buildup on the plates and potention plate shorting and failure. Intercell resistance readings are the only true test of a batteries internal condition. Load Test at Autozone is not always accurate. Towing cost as well as frustration from a dead battery is easily avoided by REPLACING the battery before it goes out. Take the time to inspect the battery when you do a oil change and if it's over 3 years plan for a correct replacement. Damaging electronics or a alternator is way more expensive to replace along with the battery!

 

Does anyone have the actual specifications for the OEM battery? CCA, and other capacities, and actual dimensions. I see many different batteries identified as possible swaps, but most say "fits fine, except for". I need to replace my battery. I'd get one from Mini but I'm over 150 miles from my closest Mini dealer and not willing to drive up with a known battery problem. I see comments about the need to run a special "program" after a battery is replaced, unless the battery is of the same "specifications" as the original. Not home now to check my battery so figured I'd ask here to start searches of local battery shops before I go home tonight.

 

Mike, I seem to have the same problems you are having. I got a new autozone battery 2 weeks ago and now its been slow cranking up. I had autozone just test battery and its holding about 26% charge. My commute is about 1 hour each way and I'll still have problems starting at times.

Did you get it coded at the dealer? Did the code help?

 

I did get it coded at the dealer just because I don't know what I don't know. I didn't think I would when I replaced it but the continuing discharge made me do it to rule it out. Did it help? Maybe. I still use battery minder and I see mostly a 5% discharge every 4-5 days. I also am garaged. I turn off everything when I park. I presume your belt is good and you have the alternator putting out as it should?

 

I've been worrying about my original OEM battery in my 07 MCS, and just replaced it. Last week my MCS stalled at night (my "deft" driving), and did not want to crank-over with the lights on. A battery test showed that I only had 50% of the original cranking power.


My Mini dealer said a new battery would cost $500 installed (yikes!). Reprogramming would be needed because they now had to use a bigger battery due to some corporate edict.


I had a local shop replace the battery for less than a third of my dealer's estimate (AC Delco with major CCA's and a 42 month free replacement) which cranks over great. I'm glad I did given the dangerously cold weather as of late.

 

Yeah, the old "reprogramming" bologna. That's their excuse for any and everything.

 

I didn't check my belt yet but my alternator and new battery tested fine. I just removed my Ultragauge to rule out anything that can be draining my battery. It's just odd that I started having slow cranking issues after my battery was replaced by autozone. It still starts up but it needs to think about it.

Any battery minders you recommend?

 

Available on Amazon for about 40 bucks with free 2 day shipping if you've got Prime.
http://batterytender.com/battery-ten...-at-1-25a.html

 

Thanks! Will the 800 waterproof model work fine with my mini? I parked it outdoors and want to get the 800 just in case if there's any water perspiration.

 

Also, which belt should I be checking?

Thx

 

The 800 looks like it should work, but the Plus is the only one I have any personal experience with.

Check the serpentine belt.

 

Thanks! It has been a never ending battle with the used mini I purchased. sigh

 

I'm in the same boat as you, when if comes to having a bazillion problems. My radio module was draining the battery over and over, so they "reprogrammed" the car, but that didn't fix it. Then they had to take apart my whole speedo/radio assembly and replace the radio. Since then, the whole thing has rattled and buzzed to no avail. It's crazy that in a car that is this small, yet expensive, they can't use a little bit higher quality parts and manufacturing processes. I wish Honda instead of BMW oversaw the production. Then we would have fun, and reliable cars.

 

Ok one more question.. Do I need to remove the passenger front wheel to check on the serpentine belt?

 

The Battery Tenders are OK but I'd highly recommend the CTEK chargers. The US3300 is only a few dollars more and they are an amazing piece of technology for charging, desulfation, and maintenance (float) charging. I also concur with those who recommend Interstate Batteries but in the interest of full disclosure I am a commercial sales manager for Interstate having worked 3 years at an All Battery Center and for the last two years in telesales at the corporate distribution center. I recently replaced the battery in my '09 Cooper S with our MT47/H5 and after reading a number of posts I do have it scheduled at the dealer for "registration" this week.

 

Look at the negative battery cable, if it does not have anything attached to the negative cable clamp you do not need to code the battery. Newer MINI's may need to be coded. Our 08 did not.

 

lucyl - The belt is nearly impossible to see from the top side with the all the stuff but from underneath you can. However, at Autozone, the device they checked your battery with will also be able to tell how many volts the alternator is putting out. If you rev the car and there is no belt squeal and the voltage is within the charging parameter, you should be good on that really.

I may be wrong and hate to add confusion but I came to an understanding with the dealer (for what that might be worth) that the battery size and CCA are a programmable item whether or not the battery sense on the negative cable exists. If the battery size is of the same relative capacity then it wouldn't matter.

 

I have a 2009 non s. I changed the battery when it was close to 5 years in age. It did not require any registering. I put in a Maxx battery from Walmart. Cost me $100.00, group 47. No issues.
I changed my serpentine belt at 60,000 miles. There were numerous small cracks in it, which I never saw until I removed it. MINI recommends changing the belt at 60,000 and 100,000 miles, for the s and non s, respectively. I changed mine about 40,000 miles too early.

 

Thanks guys.

I will change on my serpentine belt then. Looks like a simple cheap replacemen . I don't think the previous owner replaced it and I'm about 74k miles.