Hey rotadent, sorry for the delayed response. I'm really not sure about the OCC tube kink, but I don't think that would cause the problem. I don't know everything about these cars by any means, but unless the tube is completely kinked, as in completely blocked, I don't think this would cause an issue. I had a similar problem when running the tubing for my occ, just had to get creative and run them around stuff still they wouldn't kink completely.

When's the last time you had a proper carbon cleaning done (i.e. walnut blasting or something equally as extensive)? It might be a good idea to just get that checked out and see if it's needed. Are you getting the code in any particular gear/speed or under a certain amount of engine load?

 

Also, if you do decide to start looking at turbo replacement, make sure that it's not just an issue with the wastegate and/or wastegate actuator. When I bought a whole new turbo and was in the process of replacing it, I found the only issue with the old one was the wastegate actuator. I could have just replaced that for way less money and been fine...but I learn from my mistakes haha

 

17.6 PSI should be fine with the stock diverter valves... Why do people change them? All I ever read is boost cuts/error codes/reduced performance with most people running after market valves...

Do not block off the PCV line to the inlet manifold if you are running higher boost. I did and the car drank 3 litres of oil in one month and performance was reduced. I also know a friend who had issues running higher boost with the second line blanked off. peugeot in the uk do it on their cars but they run quite a bit less boost, MINI I assume for the reasons I mentioned do not endorse this method.

Install 2 catch cans with the shortest possible route from the can to the inlet and outlet points.

Make sure you change the oil every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whatever comes sooner. Spark plugs at least once a year. Walnut Blasting is now being offered in the UK for $400ish so not too bad so a clean once a year or two years should keep the car perfectly healthy.

Hope that helps.

 

So, no PCV blockoff, and 2 OCC's? As in one on the PCV inlet side and one on the outlet side? Or linked together..? The highest boost I hit is 17.9 at the top of 2nd and 3rd. I'm using the stock diverter valve with a slightly stronger spring.

 

I am running a low boost map (I am in the UK) and the max boost I see is 17.6 PSI, stock turbo, manifold, diverter and spring. I have no issues with boost cuts. Some cars in the UK are mapped to dangerous levels on stock turbo's and internals hitting 21/22 PSI and running power that even the JCW turbo is not rated to. Many have boost cuts or destroy their turbo's and some have even seen engine failure, not necessarily down to the map but it contributes to it.

With your boost levels you don't need to change the diverter valve spring.

On the stock R56 turbo I don't recommend pushing past 18PSI. People in the UK who are now pushing towards 300bhp have reported issues with the conrod bolts stretching and the conrods being the weak point.

Once you get all the carbon cleaned out you should see a bit more power... Some people have reported 20bhp gained just from having all the carbon removed.

As for the OCC, yes, one from the inlet manifold and also one from the turbo. However, achieving this with the stock/jcw airbox will be a tight fit...

Some people in the UK are running these:



Its a good idea but not the optimal setup.

 

I have the Forge BOV kit running 22-23 psi max boost(it's the kit with vacuum hose). It is definitely quiet(although it could be the loud exhaust drowning it out). I remember hearing the whoosh from the stock DV but not anymore. No ECU codes or issues.

 

Yeah I've always learned to stay away from anything past 18psi. If the turbo doesn't go, pistons or valves will. On stock internals of course.

I'll look into the dual occ setup. Haven't had too crazy of oil consumption since the pcv blockoff yet, but we'll see. I tend to change my oil more frequently than 6k miles just to be safe.

 

Kalibdor,

Can you tell me is the turbo replacement itself was much of a challenge? I just replaced my n14 engine on my 07 MCS. I'm getting an engine light at WOT and the dealer first said it was a bad BOV and now, since a new BOV didn't work, they want me to replace the rebuilt turbo. I can't afford the $800 labor and can't imagine it will be that hard. My turbo supplier is really helping me out looking for a new turbo.
Any advice?

Thanks,

Alden

 

Have you all considered changing to the new valve cover from the N18 engine? My understanding is it supercedes the old cover and really cures the oil usage problem.

I don't think doing that is any more expensive than 2 catch cans, might even be less.

Oh, and my daughter and her husband both graduated from SCAD - it's a good school.

 

This is a very labor-intensive task! No special tools req'd, just lotsa time and patience. When you get the top heat shield off, you'll see the turbo - manifold hardware is almost impossible to get at without removing the manifold. This usually means replacing a pricey exhaust gasket too.

When I replaced my turbo, there were other parts changed that required more disassembly than you should need, but consider removing the front end to minimize the wear and tear on your knuckles. You should also consider getting a copy of the Bentley manual, if you're not real familiar with your Mini --- it sounds like you had the engine replacement done by someone else. If you did it yourself, the turbo should be a cakewalk.

 

Thanks,
Since I am looking for a job right now, I will find the labor intensive route OK. I will get to the library and pick up the Haynes manual first. If it has R56 specific instructions I will know what to do.
Best Always,
Alden