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R56 Outcome of religious oil changes...

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Old May 4, 2010 | 07:43 AM
  #26  
PatM's Avatar
PatM
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From: Washington
It's nice to have the bulletin.

All in all it seems to be a problem that is not manifesting itself in a great way. At least not like the cold start issue. I'm grateful that Mini recognizes it as a potential problem. Thanks for the references.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 08:09 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xsmini
Well not a 07, but an 03. When this picture was taken it had about 168,000 miles, and the being used was Royal Purple - so its a little darker than the other brands. I follow the OBC ( so between 15k and 20k intervals) and am currently at 226,000 miles.


Nik
Wow - looks great!

Any major problems along the way? Looks like you drive similar miles to me - about 25 - 30k/year.

Manual transmission?

I am looking at a MINI this weekend is why I am asking!
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #28  
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From: Graham, NC
I wonder what the cover does that is called for in the technical bulletin? Any ideas?

Getting ready to head to the shop now for a nasty rattle - can't tell if it is the turbo or something in the upper part of the engine.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #29  
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From: Bishop, Ca
Originally Posted by Madurodave
Wow - looks great!

Any major problems along the way? Looks like you drive similar miles to me - about 25 - 30k/year.

Manual transmission?

I am looking at a MINI this weekend is why I am asking!
Don't want to hi-jack so
150,000 mile update
200,000 mile update

Since those updates I've changed control arm bushings, and right axle, and yes its a manual - w/ original clutch.

Nik
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 01:34 PM
  #30  
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From: Over there on MA
Originally Posted by Robin Casady
An oil change every 3,000 miles for 226,000 miles would cost about $3,000. Good luck finding an R56 engine for that.

A reasonable interval for an R56 would be around 5,000-8,000 miles. At that rate, oil changes would cost $500-800 per 100,000 miles.
Hey Robin, I was going to post that, but mathematics are not my strong suit. Thanks.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:26 PM
  #31  
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Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by ThumperMCS
Yes, it is very easy to do....I've got it down and can do a change in 10 min.

5k intervals for me....and mine gets 0W-40 as well, good stuff!
With the various oiling problems in this engine, my preference is for a 0W-30 true synthetic oil - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula (Made in Germany). Not that expensive at Auto Zone.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #32  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Originally Posted by jcauseyfd
I wonder what the cover does that is called for in the technical bulletin? Any ideas?

Getting ready to head to the shop now for a nasty rattle - can't tell if it is the turbo or something in the upper part of the engine.
My guess is the cover mentioned in the bulletin somehow helps keep the oil supply line to the turbo run a bit cooler, but I am not too sure about this.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #33  
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sequence
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From: Your Worst Nightmare :)
Originally Posted by uzun
My guess is the cover mentioned in the bulletin somehow helps keep the oil supply line to the turbo run a bit cooler, but I am not too sure about this.
yeah when that oil line springs a leak PeeEwwww y'll have one stinky MINI.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #34  
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From: Kingstowne, VA
I used Total Quartz 9000 0w-30 full synthetic oil for my between dealer change. It worked great last winter. It is European, BMW LL01 approved and meets ACEA A3/B4 which are MINI specifications. From Total: 100 % synthetic motor oil and very high performance synthetic motor oil based on ELF technology. Intended for lubricating passengers cars gas and diesel engines. Easier starting in extreme cold. Reduces pollution and fuel consumption. Exceeds German auto manufacturers’ technical requirements. ACEA A3/B4 API SL/CF OEM approved for BMW LL01 MB 229.5 VW 502.00/505.00 GM LL-AD025/B025 1005 synthetic approved by major euro manufacturers.

Available on line at Pelican Parts or elsewhere on line. I got it locally in Maryland near Washington DC at Olympic Auto Parts. Not cheap, but worth it. Here is a BMW forum discussion: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=561145
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #35  
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Great - an expensive, hard to find, exotic oil! I'm sure it makes a huge difference.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:46 PM
  #36  
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You're wasting a valuable resource. 7500-10000 is often enough with synthetic. Back in the old days, gasoline had lead in it which contaminated the oil horribly. New cars with injection and all the control don't need it. Maybe if you're racing it on the weekend, but for a daily driver, no. My 2 cents.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:46 PM
  #37  
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From: Kingstowne, VA
Total is about $40 for 5 liters. http://www.europaparts.com/total-qua..._store=default
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by xsmini
Don't want to hi-jack so
150,000 mile update
200,000 mile update

Since those updates I've changed control arm bushings, and right axle, and yes its a manual - w/ original clutch.

Nik
So you are just following the service indicator for oil changes?

That is pretty remarkable!
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #39  
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From: Bishop, Ca
Originally Posted by Madurodave
So you are just following the service indicator for oil changes?
Yup!
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #40  
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From: Over there on MA
True enough about lead in gas. On thing that I notice compared to the good old days is how long a set of plugs last & how clean they are even with a load of miles.

Now as far as changing my oil goes 6,000 miles is it for me.

My wife had an Audrey A4 1.8T. The dealer paid for all maintenance for 4 years or 50,000. At about 30,000 the engine sludged up. Oil changed at 10,000 or 1 year. Audi paid to repair the engine, but trust me it was never right after that. Thank God it was a lease car & that piece of carp went back to them at the lease end.

That is why I do not believe in long drain intervals. Your mileage may vary.
 
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