R56 Outcome of religious oil changes...
It's nice to have the bulletin.
All in all it seems to be a problem that is not manifesting itself in a great way. At least not like the cold start issue. I'm grateful that Mini recognizes it as a potential problem. Thanks for the references.
All in all it seems to be a problem that is not manifesting itself in a great way. At least not like the cold start issue. I'm grateful that Mini recognizes it as a potential problem. Thanks for the references.
Any major problems along the way? Looks like you drive similar miles to me - about 25 - 30k/year.
Manual transmission?
I am looking at a MINI this weekend is why I am asking!
I wonder what the cover does that is called for in the technical bulletin? Any ideas?
Getting ready to head to the shop now for a nasty rattle - can't tell if it is the turbo or something in the upper part of the engine.
Getting ready to head to the shop now for a nasty rattle - can't tell if it is the turbo or something in the upper part of the engine.
150,000 mile update
200,000 mile update
Since those updates I've changed control arm bushings, and right axle, and yes its a manual - w/ original clutch.
Nik
With the various oiling problems in this engine, my preference is for a 0W-30 true synthetic oil - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula (Made in Germany). Not that expensive at Auto Zone.
My guess is the cover mentioned in the bulletin somehow helps keep the oil supply line to the turbo run a bit cooler, but I am not too sure about this.
I used Total Quartz 9000 0w-30 full synthetic oil for my between dealer change. It worked great last winter. It is European, BMW LL01 approved and meets ACEA A3/B4 which are MINI specifications. From Total: 100 % synthetic motor oil and very high performance synthetic motor oil based on ELF technology. Intended for lubricating passengers cars gas and diesel engines. Easier starting in extreme cold. Reduces pollution and fuel consumption. Exceeds German auto manufacturers’ technical requirements. ACEA A3/B4 API SL/CF OEM approved for BMW LL01 MB 229.5 VW 502.00/505.00 GM LL-AD025/B025 1005 synthetic approved by major euro manufacturers.
Available on line at Pelican Parts or elsewhere on line. I got it locally in Maryland near Washington DC at Olympic Auto Parts. Not cheap, but worth it. Here is a BMW forum discussion: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=561145
Available on line at Pelican Parts or elsewhere on line. I got it locally in Maryland near Washington DC at Olympic Auto Parts. Not cheap, but worth it. Here is a BMW forum discussion: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=561145
You're wasting a valuable resource. 7500-10000 is often enough with synthetic. Back in the old days, gasoline had lead in it which contaminated the oil horribly. New cars with injection and all the control don't need it. Maybe if you're racing it on the weekend, but for a daily driver, no. My 2 cents.
Don't want to hi-jack so
150,000 mile update
200,000 mile update
Since those updates I've changed control arm bushings, and right axle, and yes its a manual - w/ original clutch.
Nik
150,000 mile update
200,000 mile update
Since those updates I've changed control arm bushings, and right axle, and yes its a manual - w/ original clutch.
Nik
That is pretty remarkable!
True enough about lead in gas. On thing that I notice compared to the good old days is how long a set of plugs last & how clean they are even with a load of miles.
Now as far as changing my oil goes 6,000 miles is it for me.
My wife had an Audrey A4 1.8T. The dealer paid for all maintenance for 4 years or 50,000. At about 30,000 the engine sludged up. Oil changed at 10,000 or 1 year. Audi paid to repair the engine, but trust me it was never right after that. Thank God it was a lease car & that piece of carp went back to them at the lease end.
That is why I do not believe in long drain intervals. Your mileage may vary.
Now as far as changing my oil goes 6,000 miles is it for me.
My wife had an Audrey A4 1.8T. The dealer paid for all maintenance for 4 years or 50,000. At about 30,000 the engine sludged up. Oil changed at 10,000 or 1 year. Audi paid to repair the engine, but trust me it was never right after that. Thank God it was a lease car & that piece of carp went back to them at the lease end.
That is why I do not believe in long drain intervals. Your mileage may vary.
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