^^^^^^^^Yes, confirmed by ScanGauge which shows 999 MPG and 0 GPH Fuel Flow.

(FF at idle {non-'S' in neutral} would be from .22 to .33 GPH depending on if A/C is on.)

 

Thanks all for the reply! The references to ppl texting and not stopping behind you reminds me how someone nearly rear-ended me. I was stopped on a one lane parkway waiting for oncoming cars to pass so that I can turn left. I check my rearview mirror, and notice a car hurdling towards me, not slowing down. I was driving automatic back then, so I put my foot of the break to brace for impact (no cars in front of me, and too late to step on the gas), and just kept honking my horn to get her attention. Instead of stopping or swerving to the right of my car which had space off the parkway, she decides to swerve into oncoming traffic, runs one car off the road into the bike lane, and swerves up the left turn that I was waiting for. Thank goodness no one was hurt...but totally unbe-freakin-leavable!

 

b and b I believe too many people "ride" the clutch and/or brake pedals as a matter of course. This will wear the attached component. IMHO

 

A

B

My grandfather uses the same technique... Replaced after 160000km which was 80000 km more than what skoda thought was possible.

 

The clutch or the car?

 

the clutch

 

Seriously, it's not legal to coast in some states? They've got some weird laws out there.

And somebody mentioned slipping out of gear without pushing in the clutch... seems like a nice approach, any potential problems with doing that?

 

^^^^^ I would think most states and a lot of reasons for the law.

Slipping out of gear without clutch should only be done with gears 'un-loaded' in either direction. Light pressure as you add or reduce throttle so there is no acceleration or engine braking and it will 'slip' out of gear with minimum gear/syncro load.

 

My dad taught me, a hundred years ago or so, that you never leave the car in gear with the clutch engaged while at a light just in case the clutch cable breaks. I always practiced this and sure enough the day came... the light turned green I put the VW Bug in gear and bang, the clutch cable snaps and I lurch forward. Would have hit the car in front of me if he hadn't begun moving. Thanks Dad!

 

Less wear and tear on the clutch and bearing.

The engine actually shuts off fuel delivery when coasting in gear so you gain a bit of gas mileage and you save on brake wear!

 

California for one. It was done for safety reasons. I don't know when the law was written, but I believe it is more than 50 years old. Before electronic monitoring system and fuel injection, it was not uncommon for a car to die at idle (not that it can't happen now with MINIs). If the engine dies while coasting, you would loose power steering and brake assist. For many drivers, this means an uncontrolable car.

Another reason is that wheel speed and engine speed would be way out of sync. An unsophisticated driver could easily put it in the wrong gear when power was needed again. The result could cause a dangerous situation because of mechanical failure (money shift) or loss of control. It could also mean that power wasn't readily available if needed. It takes more time to put it in gear, and accelerate than to just stomp on the gas.

The law was probably written because of actual incidents. I doubt it was written from imagination. With the steep hills in San Francisco, there was plenty of opportunity for coasting to go wrong. Think about a 1957 Caddlilac coasting through intersections down some of the steep hills in SF.

While the engine dying at idle is less likely now, there is also less reason to coast. Since fuel is cut off by the computer when coasting in gear, you use less fuel and create fewer emissions than if you were in neutral.

 

Interesting, never thought about some of that. Makes sense.

If I'm on the freeway and traffic slows fairly quickly, sometimes I'll shift into neutral while braking because it takes to long to row down through all the gears...

And cool to hear about the new fuel management. Of course, right now I'm driving a 1990 Accord (bought a beater to learn manual on), so I'm sure it's not quite so sophisticated, lol.

I took a test drive of a JCW in manual, and was AMAZED with how easy/smooth the clutch engagement felt. It really helps to get used to a car that's 20 years old.

 

I don't bother downshifting for braking. I only downshift when I'm going to accelerate.

 

Be careful! My mom was permanently injured when she "braced" for a rear-end collision like that. She was in a Jeep Cherokee, and she essentially took all the impact on her back.

 

B

A

 

I'm an A and B person. I do the A method to save my left leg. I could care less about the clutch.

 

There is good reason to leave it in a high gear with the clutch engaged while slowing to a stop. Every time you downshift(or upshift) you wear the clutch plate a little bit. You need to do this when driving dynamically but you don't need to when approaching a red light or stop sign. Eventually, all these little bits translate to a worn out clutch plate (and throw-out bearing.) Save the inevitable clutch wear for dynamic driving. Use engine braking to come to planned stops. This will also extend the life of your brake pads. For full explanation see Cartalk.com

I personally don't care about brake pad wear because replacing disk brake pads is easy. {N.B. Disk pads for the front and rear brakes cost $100 -$150. IT takes about 10 minutes per wheel to replace the pads. Very easy.}

 

Back in the 60's, my to-be husband taught me that the throw-out bearing would wear prematurely if the clutch were left in each time you come to a light (or in stop and go traffic). His comment was that it's a $10 part, but costs $100 to get to it. The prices have increased tenfold since then, but the concept is the same. I've never had to replace a clutch, and have had stick shift cars for...ahem...40 years. My last car, a BMW 325i, was sold with 190,000 miles on the clock--original everything, including clutch.

We don't have the "countdown" lights in the U.S., unfortunately, but most times I can see the cross traffic's lights. When I can see their yellow light (either directly, or by reflection on the shade), I know it will be my turn soon and get ready for it. The guy behind me isn't inconvenienced with the time it takes me to slip into first.

I also use engine braking. If you count on brakes downhill for any length of time, especially in mountains, you'll soon find yourself without anything to count on! That's another thing I've had little wear on--replacements about every 80,000 miles or so. And yes, I play with my cars all the time! (I actually got significant brake fade in the above mentioned Bimmer on the Blue Ridge Parkway once--that's a little hard to do with a non-racing BMW!)

 

a, b

the throw-out bearing on my 62 midget was a donut made of graphite, and it was indeed a 10$ part that was a great pain to replace due to location.

these days throw-out bearings are needle bearings (all steel, with a VERY long service life)

so sitting with the clutch in is no longer the sin that it used to be

but i have a lazy left foot, and i too watch the lights the other way to know when to get back into gear, and i too am a motorcyclist and surely agree with the "last car in line" remarks

 

Used to be a B, B person, but after reading all the posts on this board about premature clutch failure, I'm mostly A, B now. I say "mostly" because if it's a short light, I'll still keep the clutch depressed (as I have with all my other vehicles--none of which have ever had the clutches fail).

 

What is the MINI throw-out made of?

 

Yes, the fuel cuts off to the engine and the automatic transmission's fuel milage goes to 99.9 when coasting down hill.

Also, having replaced a clutch or two myself, I would recommend A, B as well. It makes the most sense from a mechanical viewpoint.

 

steel - it uses ball bearings to seperate the fixed and rotating components

 

Usually A, always B.

 

Usually A for the first question, always B for the second.