I pretty much stick to the recommened service interval. I don't think oil loss is an accurate measure of when to change the oil in an engine. I keep an extra quart or two of Syntec in the car and check it about once a month, re-filling as needed. In 22,000 miles, I've poured in one quart.

What happens to an engine when overfilled with oil depends on how the engine is designed. VW aircooled engines were sensitive and would blow out their front crankshaft seals with an extra quart in them. On the other hand, I used to drive a M-Benz 1.9 liter diesel that could take the same amount without a problem. Without specific knowledge of the MINI's engine, we're only guessing when we discuss what's a problem and what isn't.

I'd agree with Scott, MINI seems to be actively discouraging owner-performed servicing by witholding information. Depending on how paranoid you want to be, you can interprete that from MINI forcing all the owners to pay for dealer services, to MINI preventing unknowing/unskilled maintenance from being performed on engines under warranty.

Personally, I think reality is somewhere in the middle. Dealers certainly make a lot of money servicing the cars they sell, and I can't blame them for protecting that source of income. However, I've read about enough owner servicing mistakes to believe that MINI is protecting the cars from their owners, too.

 

Same thing happened to me. They put in 5 qts. Supposed to put in 4.5. It was 1/2" or so over the top mark, but they said don't worry about it. I sucked some out before they answered me but honestly I don't think it mattered at all. I'd check it before I leave the dealer if you're **** about it.

 

Yeah, it's really hard for the shop to argue they didn't to anything wrong when you're holding the evidence right there in their parking lot. You just have to not be lazy and check it before leaving.

 

Here's a link to the oil extractor I bought:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._390306_390306
It consists of an all metal tank with a pump on it, and a plastic tube with a shut-off valve. You close off the valve, pump up the tank which creates negative pressure (vacuum), then insert the tube down the dipstick hole and release the valve. It starts sucking the oil out and once it gets moving the siphon action takes over. Took around 5-10 minutes to drain completely. I also bought a 27mm 6-point socket and ratchet with swiveling head to make removing the oil filter canister easier. You will also need an 8mm wrench to remove the radiator overflow tank, moving it to the side makes reaching the oil filter much easier. With the oil drained, very little oil leaked out when I removed the filter. Once done, you can pour the old oil from the extractor back into the container the new oil came in for recycling. Overall the extractor makes for a quick, easy, and messfree job.

 

Here's another one, looks similar, for half the price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45403

Probably both imported.

 

I'd trust Northern Tool over Harbor Freight.

 

Thanks much for the info. I'm getting one tomorrow, and pulling the oil level down to the top mark no matter what anybody says. I've only been fooling around with cars for +40yrs and my Grandfather taught me the importance of keeping the oil level between the marks. - Dwight

 

I've been buying (hand tools, air compressor, hydraulic lift, disk grinder, ATV trailer, etc.) from Harbor Freight for 6 years and have never had a problem. Twice I've had a broken or missing piece and their customer service expedited the replacement without question. I don't know that I'd buy any precision tools from them, but for most items they're fine.

Northern Tool seems to carry the same merchandise, but at higher prices. I've only bought one item from them and it was fine, too.

 

I just got my 2008 Cooper back from Service 1. The next day I checked the oil, it's 1/2 inch above the top mark. I called the MA; states the dipstick is a bad design and 1/2 inch above the high mark is ok. Odd. Both my Cooper and the wife's Cooper S both came from the dealer with the oil 1/2 way between the low and high marks. I have to think there is a quart difference. Can't wait to bring it back next weekend and hear the latest idea on oil level.

 

I had exactly the same issue with mine. It was above the highest level too. I went back to the dealer, they checked it and took oil out of the tank. I haven't checked it since though but i will, im curious to see where it will be now!

 

I left the oil about 1/2" overr the top mark in my MCS. I've put at least 1,000 miles on it since then. MINI of Mountain View is 100 miles away, and they insisted it was OK. The car is still under warranty. So, if a problem occurred, it would be their problem. I assume that if this oil level was a problem, it would occur within a short period of time, and there would be a lot of MINIs with the same problem.

So, if 1/2" over is OK, then there is some benefit from having more oil in the sump. It should last longer for one thing. Porsches use more than 8 qts. They wouldn't want the extra weight unless they thought there was significant benefit from the extra oil.

 

A person just posted a nice diy oil change with pix the other day (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pictures.html). He put 4 in 4 qts and that was halfway between the upper/lower dipstick marks. Supposedly a total fillup is 4.5 qts, which would put it at the top mark. My dealer documented they added 5 qts which was 1/2" above the top mark, so it all makes sense.

 

Just had an M7 Turbo Down Tube installed at All German Auto (Escondido, CA) and told the service guy there about the dealer oil over-fill problem. He stated that BMW was having an oiling problem on their turbo engines and was purposely over filling to compensate. Is there an oil blow-by problem? My R56 had also been over filled by 1/2". I lowered it to the top mark after 2K when I put the new down tube on. The OEM tube and muffler was coated in oil! IMHO,
somebody's trying to hide something. 1/2Qt of premium synthetic oil/R56S adds up to serious $$. Problems of oil blow-by would happen so slowly that the driver might not notice (until the warranty was up!). Hope I'm wrong, but too many people are complaining about the same problem and the dealer response is the same everywhere. - Dwight

PS: The guy at All German Auto also recommended oil/filter change at 7.5K. The oil may still be good, but, the filter is on bypass mode. Heard the same from several others.

 

I had a feeling overfilling might be intentional. If so, they are certainly being stealthy about it.

I don't understand. What is the connection with blow-by and over-filling the sump?

Have you had a compression check done to see if you have a blow-by problem?

Since most people buy oil by the qt, I don't see how the extra 1/2 is a big issue. It would mean what, $3 per 8K miles? That would be $37.50 over 100,000 miles.

I seem to be missing something here. Blow-by is where the piston rings don't create a good enough seal and combustion gasses blow into the crankcase. How does this relate to oil level?

I've read of some people changing the filter without changing the oil, and just adding enough to make up for what was lost in the filter change. However, my oil analysis said the oil would be reaching the end of its usefulness at around 8K miles.

 

Guess I didn't type that comment about the extra 1/2Qt very clear. Should have said 1/2Qt extra for every turbo R56 made and still on warranty. That should be serious $$. Compression better NOT be a problem as I've only got 14K on the car. If it is, BMW gets to fix it for free. Blow-by was just a guess, but something (like too much oil) is/was oiling down the intake runner starting at the PCV inlet. Will check after 2K and see if lowering the level to the top mark solved the problem. Thanks for the info about synthetic oil life (8K). Now I'm changing @ 7.5K for certain. Thanks for the comments, Dwight

Note: All German Auto also said to ignore the "Life Time Lubricant" sticker on the bottom of the tranny and to change it at 60K. Ideas on this?

 

Hi everyone,
I have a very stupid question. I just got my 2009 MCS about ywo weeks ago and just checked my oil just to see what it looked like. Now the dipstick is unlike the other cars I have owned and there is not a deeply visible leve line on the reddish colored twin pointy things dipstick. Now I can feel that the dipstick has oil on it and the car only has about 290 miles on it. I drove it home from work let it sit for 5-10 minutes, pulled the dipstick, wipped it clean, reinserted it and there was not a deep visible line on the dipstick that I could see. Should I be worried, add more oil, take it to the dealer and yell and possibly look foolish when the level is really OK? Any help will be appreciated :-)

 

Not nearly as $eriou$ as replacing engines, if the oil level increase is to solve an oiling problem.

I'm no expert on this, but I believe your mechanics. My suspicion is that auto companies are feeling a lot of competitive pressure to reduce maintenances costs. It appeals to consumers who are penny-conscious, and rich folk who are very busy. That BMW and VW are doing TV ads about maintenance confirms this in my mind. I think they are pushing the oil change interval and declaring "lifetime" lubricants is a compromise between marketing and engineering. For maximum life on the car, I'd do the 60K change.

Some people who change cars every few years just see the long term life of the car as someone else's problem.

That sounds different than the 2007 dipstick which seems like a tightly coiled spring with aluminum pieces at the end and full line. Nothing red on it. However, this trick for finding the oil level may work for you.

Take a paper towel or clean rag and lay it flat in your hand (you may want to fold it in several layers so your hand doesn't get oily). Pull the dipstick out and lay it flat on the paper and roll it one half turn to expose the oil stain on the paper towel. Keeping the dipstick lined up with the stain, you can tell where the oil level is.

 

Can someone tell me where the PCV valve is located? I want to check mine.
Also, I have to make an appointment with the local MINI dealer, anything new on EXACTLY how much oil to put in the engine 4.5 or 5 quarts?

 

BEFCo, tell them to put in 4 qts and give you the the extra qt. Drive the car home and recheck the oil.

I'd rather be 1/2 a quart low than 1/2 a quart over full.

 

Got a copy of 4 pages of BMW's Technical Data manual. It says 4.4 qts on oil change for both Cooper and Cooper S. This will put the oil line 1/2 way between the high and low mark on the dip stick. However, most dealers are putting in 5 qts! This puts the line .5" above the high mark. No Bueno, to say the least. SA said this was "no problem". BULL! My MCS was so oiled down that the inlet tube slid off the turbo! Cleaned up the mess and lowered the level to the top mark, no trouble since.

Don't know exactly where the PCV valve is other than under the cam cover. It vents crank case vapors to the turbo inlet tube to be burned during combustion. It can handle vapors ok, but an oil over fill can create an oil mist that it can't. Everything down wind of the vent point gets oiled. Guess I'm venting about BMW's "service".
DW

 

Can you or someone else please take a few pics of the "inlet tube" cause i have no idea what that is or looks like!

 

What I have decided to do is this; take a empty, clean 20oz soda bottle, fill with clean new oil from either a quart bottle or 5-quart bottle and put aside for use in the future & pour the remainder in the crankcase. While not exact, it gets us close to 4.4 US quarts. I agree the dip stick is very difficult to read accurately, even under the best lighting conditions.

 

OK, thanks for the info.
I'll check RealOEM.com for the PCV location.
My wife has had a couple 3 series BMW's and has had almost zero probs.
The MINI seems to be a bit odd, maybe it's the English build, French engine and German parts that causes the problems.
Aw well I still love driving the little machine.

 

I believe that MINI has changed its mind about what the proper oil level is. Somewhere I read that they were doing this to minimize an oiling problem. It might be related to the cold-start rattle.

The last oil change I got from MINI of Mountain View filled oil to above the top mark on the dipstick. I called my SA about it and he talked to the Service Manager about it. The answer was not to worry, it will be fine at that level. So, I left it.

I was talking to another SA about the cold-start rattle, and he mentioned something about the oil level being low. I told him about the over-fill and he said something about the MCS taking 4.7 quarts.

I'm not going to worry about the high oil level. If it were a problem, we would be hearing the disaster stories here on NAM. Many dealers have been doing it to many MINIs. By now, any bad consequences would have come to light.

 

I'm getting my 3rd service at Scottsdale on Saturday and I'll ask the service dude what their policy is on this. Logic tells me that adding an extra 10% (or .5qt) to the crankcase will not do any harm to the engine. My receipt said they added 5 qts the first time (didn't check it the second time). Like Robin said there must be a reason they're adding that, and the reason would be their machinery adds 5 qts easier than 4.5 or the extra .5 qt may do some good and prevent some problems no matter what the manual/dipstick says. Do the 2009 cars also say they take 4.5 qts of oil?